Hugo Boss military uniform. Designer Karl Diebitsch. Hugo Boss was a convinced Nazi, supplied uniforms to the Wehrmacht and SS

used slave labor of citizens of occupied countries held in inhumane conditions. This accusation is contained in the book of Roman Kester, a young historian from Munich. The historian received an order for the book from the company itself, which wanted to shed light on the darkest pages of its past.

German fashion house Hugo Boss has apologized for the mistreatment of those forced to work in its factory that made military uniforms for the Nazis during World War II.

At the factory, which served as the basis for the current Fashion House, 140 immigrants from Poland and 40 from France were used as forced labor in those years.

After the defeat of the Reich in 1945, the Allies tried Hugo Boss and sentenced him to a huge fine of 100 thousand marks, but he avoided prison. He stated that he became a Nazi out of necessity. But this is not true. He joined the NSDAP back in 1931.

“It is clear that Hugo Ferdinand Boss joined the party not only because of the opportunity to receive orders for sewing military uniforms, but also because he was a follower of National Socialism,” the author writes.

One of the first major contracts that Hugo Boss received was an order to sew brown shirts for members of the newly created Nazi party.

By 1938, the factory produced army uniforms, and eventually began to sew uniforms for SS units.

SS is an abbreviation of the German Schutzstaffel - “defensive division”. The elite of the fascist troops. The squadron was originally formed for the personal protection of Hitler, but grew into a leading military organization. And the SS uniform was designed carefully and looked intimidating. The SS wore a black uniform with breeches and knee-high boots, brown shirts with a black tie, black caps with a death's head badge, and insignia of two Sieg runes. But during combat training it became clear that the black uniform was not suitable for war and the gray SS uniform was introduced for combat operations. Also for operations in Italy and the Balkans, SS units wore yellow uniforms. The entire uniform was constantly changed and refined throughout the war years. This variety of outfits required large capacities for the production of uniforms, and many enterprises were engaged in the production of weapons and could not produce anything else. So providing for military needs was a profitable business.
In 1930, the Hugo Boss company was on the verge of bankruptcy. Hugo, the owner of the factory, took the plunge and joined the NSDAP (Nazi Party) and immediately received an order to produce SA, SS and Hitler Youth uniforms. In principle, the choice is quite predictable. It was difficult to exist outside the party, and members received help and benefits. Although the principles did not allow someone to do this... In 1937, almost a hundred people already worked for Hugo Boss. With the outbreak of World War II, his company was registered as an important military enterprise and received an order to produce Wehrmacht uniforms. Indeed, some SS shape designs were developed at Hugo Boss, not by Hugo himself, but by Professor Karl Oberführer and Diebitschen designer Walter Kech. After the war, Hugo Boss quickly switched to making uniforms for railway workers and postmen. But the brand entered high fashion only in the 90s. And at this time, a new movement was born - Nazi chic - Nazi chic. The costumes have undergone a significant redesign and are made from completely different fabrics. Nazi uniforms are especially popular in Japan, where neo-Nazi organizations are active, and young people dress in Nazi costumes “for fun.” It is a pity that not everyone thinks about the ethics of their actions. Although one cannot blame people for wanting to stand out, especially children. The Nazi uniform is also very popular among fetishists, but I did not post the photo for ethical reasons. In general, there are some pretty sexy images:) Do you like the fetish? Updated 04/10/10 19:15: I run my own blog about clothing design, if anyone is interested, look at my profile. Updated 04/10/10 23:04: I DO NOT approve of wearing fascist symbols.

The SS troops belonged to the SS organization; service in them was not considered state service, even if it was legally equivalent to such. The military uniform of SS soldiers is quite recognizable all over the world; most often this black uniform is associated with the organization itself. It is known that the uniforms for SS employees during the Holocaust were sewn by prisoners of the Buchenwald concentration camp.

History of the SS military uniform

Initially, soldiers of the SS troops (also “Waffen SS”) wore gray uniforms, very similar to the uniform of stormtroopers of the regular German army. In 1930, the same, well-known, black uniform was introduced, which was supposed to emphasize the difference between the troops and the rest and determine the elitism of the unit.

By 1939, SS officers received a white dress uniform, and from 1934, a gray one was introduced, intended for field battles. The gray military uniform differed from the black one only in color.

Additionally, SS servicemen were entitled to a black overcoat, which, with the introduction of the gray uniform, was replaced by a double-breasted, respectively, gray overcoat. High-ranking officers were allowed to wear their overcoat unbuttoned by the top three buttons so that the colored distinctive stripes were visible. Subsequently, holders of the Knight's Cross received the same right (in 1941), who were allowed to display the award.

The Waffen SS women's uniform consisted of a gray jacket and skirt, as well as a black cap with the SS eagle.

A black ceremonial club jacket with the symbols of the organization for officers was also developed.

It should be noted that in fact the black uniform was the uniform of the SS organization specifically, and not the troops: only SS members had the right to wear this uniform; transferred Wehrmacht soldiers were not allowed to use it. By 1944, the wearing of this black uniform was officially abolished, although in fact by 1939 it was used only on special occasions.

Distinctive features of the Nazi uniform

• The SS uniform had a number of distinctive features that are easily remembered even now, after the disbandment of the organization:
• The SS emblem of two German "Sig" runes was used on uniform insignia. Only ethnic Germans - Aryans - were allowed to wear runes on their uniforms; foreign members of the Waffen SS did not have the right to use this symbolism.
• The red armband with a black swastika on a white background was worn by members of the SS and stood out significantly against the background of the black dress uniform.
• The image of an eagle with outstretched wings and a swastika (formerly the coat of arms of Nazi Germany) eventually replaced skulls on cap badges and began to be embroidered on the sleeves of uniforms.

The Waffen SS camouflage pattern differed from the Wehrmacht camouflage. Instead of the conventional pattern design with parallel lines applied, creating the so-called “rain effect,” woody and plant patterns were used. Since 1938, the following camouflage elements of the SS uniform have been adopted: camouflage jackets, reversible covers for helmets and face masks. On camouflage clothing it was necessary to wear green stripes indicating rank on both sleeves, however, for the most part this requirement was not observed by officers. During campaigns, a set of stripes was also used, each of which denoted one or another military qualification.

Rank insignia on SS uniform

The ranks of Waffen SS soldiers did not differ from the ranks of Wehrmacht employees: the differences were only in form. The uniform used the same distinctive signs, such as shoulder straps and embroidered buttonholes. SS officers wore insignia with the symbols of the organization both on shoulder straps and in buttonholes.

The shoulder straps of SS officers had a double backing, the upper one differing in color depending on the type of troops. The backing was edged with a silver cord. On the shoulder straps there were signs of belonging to one or another unit, metal or embroidered with silk threads. The shoulder straps themselves were made of gray braid, while their lining was invariably black. The bumps (or “stars”) on the shoulder straps, designed to indicate the officer’s rank, were bronze or gilded.

The buttonholes featured runic “zigs” on one, and rank insignia on the other. The employees of the 3rd Panzer Division, which was nicknamed "Death's Head" instead of "zig", had an image of a skull, which was previously worn as a cockade on the cap of SS men. The edges of the buttonholes were edged with twisted silk cords, and for generals they were covered with black velvet. They also used it to line the general's caps.

Video: SS form

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The famous German fashion house apologized to the world community for the use of forced labor in its factories during the Second World War.

Hugo Ferdinand BOSS.

Why did Hugo join the Nazi party?

Back in 1997, Hugo Boss publicly acknowledged its collaboration with the Nazis. The impetus for the statement by representatives of the company was the publication of hidden accounts in Swiss banks, in which the name of Hugo Boss appeared, which proved his connection with the Nazis. But then the statements contained a statement about the complete ignorance of the company’s management about this fact - the argument was the absence in the company’s archives of any mention of events related to serving the Nazi regime.
In 2006, the Austrian magazine Profil wrote that Hugo Boss supplied Hitler's army with uniforms during World War II. And, even worse, she used the labor of prisoners from concentration camps and prisoners of war for this purpose. The company did not deny the accusations. Spokeswoman Monica Steilen said at the time: “The Hugo Boss factory made work clothes and, apparently, uniforms for the SS.” But since the enterprise did not have more accurate information about its history, the supply of Nazi uniforms and the use of forced labor were left without comment. And only a year later, Hugo Boss's 83-year-old son Siegfried admitted that his father was a member of the Nazi party. “Who wasn’t a member at that time? The whole industry worked for the Nazis,” said Siegfried Boss.
To cleanse the company's image, it was decided to hire a historian who would investigate the events of 60 years ago, as did many other German companies accused of collaborating with the Nazis.
The author of the recently published book “Hugo Boss, 1924-1945”, a specialist in economic history at the University of the Bundeswehr, Roman Köster, to whom the company commissioned the research, had to check the rumors about the use of forced labor in the company’s factories, and also find out whether Hugo Ferdinand Boss really was Hitler's "personal tailor".
After studying historical documents, the author of the book came to the conclusion that the founder of a textile company in the city of Metzingen (Baden-Württemberg) was a sincere supporter of the Nazi party. “It is clear that Hugo Ferdinand Boss joined the ranks of the party not only because of the opportunity to receive orders for sewing military uniforms,” writes the author of the publication.
After the war, Boss maintained until his death in 1948 that he joined its ranks to save his company, receiving orders to sew uniforms first for party members and then for SS units. “This may be true, but judging by the statements of Hugo Ferdinand Boss, it cannot be said that his personal views were at odds with the views of the National Socialists,” says Koester. “This most likely did not happen.”
Since April 1940, Hugo Boss began using forced labor, mainly women, in his enterprise. At the factory, which served as the basis for the current fashion house, 140 immigrants from Poland and 40 from France were used as forced labor in those years. A camp was built especially for such workers not far from the factory. Hygiene and food supply were at times very far from accepted standards.
As Roman Köster notes, in 1944, a year before the end of the war, Boss tried to alleviate the situation of female workers. He ordered to place some of them in his house, and also improved their food. “We can only repeat what is already known: the attitude towards forced factory workers was at times very cruel and reached the point of coercion. At the same time, they were cared for, so it is very difficult to come to clear conclusions,” writes the author of the book.
The management of the Hugo Boss fashion house does not deny its past. Having received the results of Roman Koester's research, the bosses not only did not prevent the publication of the book, but also accompanied it with an official apology for the use of forced labor in the past. “We acknowledge all the unpleasant facts and deeply regret that many people had to endure suffering while working in our factories during the war years. We didn't even try to hide it or rewrite history. By funding Roman Koester's research, we hoped to see the true story of our company. Our expectations have come true,” says Hugo Boss management in an official statement.
Representatives of Hugo Boss claim that they did not subject the work of Roman Koester to any censorship and that the book was published in the form in which the author wrote it.

It all started with a uniform for postmen

Hugo Boss is one of the most famous fashion houses. This brand produces classic lines of clothing, accessories and perfumes. Clothing lines for men and women (there is also a children's line) from Hugo Boss are produced under two brands: Boss collections are presented separately, the main one is called Boss Black, and Hugo clothing lines are presented separately. Unlike the classic Boss, the Hugo brand is more unconventional and progressive. Hugo Boss positions the Baldessarini brand as another brand for “sophisticated” men and women, as the advertisement claims. Accessories are also produced under the Hugo Boss brand: watches, sunglasses and even mobile phones (together with Samsung), as well as perfumes.
Hugo Ferdinand Boss founded his company in Metzingen in 1923, just a few years after the end of the First World War, at a time when almost all of Germany was in a state of economic collapse.
At first it was a family business, the company was a small store that grew into a small factory that was engaged in sewing uniforms for social services - police officers, postmen and overalls for workers. The post-war crisis in Germany affected the company, and soon, in 1930, Hugo Boss declared bankruptcy.
But changes in the social and political life of Germany gave the company the opportunity for revenge. In 1931 (two years before Adolf Hitler came to power), Hugo Boss, like many Germans, joined the National Socialist Party of Germany. And soon the new party affiliation begins to bear fruit. One of the first major contracts that Hugo Boss received was an order to sew brown shirts for members of the Nazi party. He then received orders to make uniforms for the German armed forces, stormtroopers, SS men and the youth organization Hitler Jugend. He also proudly wore a party badge on his jacket, recalls Hugo Boss's son Siegfried.
In 1946, for his party membership, support of the SS and supply of uniforms to Nazi troops - even until 1933 - the Boss was recognized as an activist and supporter of the NSDAP; for this he was deprived of the right to vote, the opportunity to manage his own company and was fined 100,000 marks.
In the post-war period, the company returned to making clothing for postmen and police officers. In 1948, the founder of the company, Hugo Boss, died, but the company continued to develop, and in the early 50s the first men's suit appeared in its assortment. But it wasn't until the 70s that the company focused entirely on men's fashion. The transformation of Hugo Boss into the fashion brand we know it today was greatly facilitated by the new management of the company. In 1967, brothers Holly, Uwe and Jochen, the grandchildren of Hugo Boss, took over management. In the wake of the post-war economic recovery in Germany, Hugo Boss is rapidly developing and becoming the largest clothing manufacturer in Germany and one of the largest in the world, as well as an influential fashion house.

Heinrich HIMMLER in a Hugo Boss suit.

Entrepreneurs of the Third Reich

The Hugo Boss fashion house has joined the long list of major German concerns that admitted to using slave labor during the Second World War.
Equipment manufacturers Krupp, Siemens, the medical company Bayer, automobile companies Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, BMW, Porsche, and the American company Ford exploited the labor of hundreds of thousands of prisoners of war. For example, at the BMW factories, 30,000 prisoners repaired military aircraft engines, but at the Krupp factories, 70,000 prisoners, along with making coffee makers and washing machines, built... gas chambers. This company even had its own factory on the territory of the Auschwitz concentration camp. At the Bayer plant, prisoners produced poisonous gases, and they lived for only three and a half months. Of 35,000 workers
25,000 died.
Enterprises explained the use of prison labor simply - all ordinary workers were in the army, there was no one to work. The money earned by prisoners went to Hitler's party to finance military operations. Already in the 1950s, some former prisoners began to demand compensation from these German companies, and many of the demands were satisfied.
Not long ago, Ingvar Kamprad, the founder of the furniture company IKEA, was accused of sympathizing with the National Socialists. One of the richest men in the world, Ingvar Kamprad also collaborated with the Nazis during World War II. Moreover, as Swedish historian Elisabeth Osbrink argues in her new book, the founder of IKEA still does not hide his sympathies for the Nazis.

For that time, the uniform of the German troops, sewn by Hugo Boss, was very fashionable and functional.

Fashion the SS way

The SS uniforms were carefully designed and looked intimidating. (SS is the abbreviated name of the German Schutzstaffel - “defensive division”, the elite of the fascist troops.) The black SS uniform (well known to our viewers from the series “Seventeen Moments of Spring” by Tatyana Lioznova) was invented by a 34-year-old heraldry specialist, a member of the “Imperial Association of German Artists” "Professor Karl Diebitsch with his assistant Walter Heck. The latter also developed an emblem in the form of a double “zig” rune (the “zig” rune - lightning - in ancient German mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor) and the design of bladed weapons for the SS.
The creation of the SS uniform of Diebitsch was inspired by the uniform of the Prussian “Hussars of Death” (in colloquial German since the 18th century, this is how the 1st Life Hussars and the 2nd Life Hussars of Queen Victoria of Prussia were called), which was decorated with the Totenkopf emblem - “dead head".
Ironically, the Russian Empire had its own black hussars, wearing similar uniforms: the Fifth Regiment of Alexandrian Hussars.
Black uniforms and caps for SS members were introduced on July 7, 1932, and after 1939 a mass transition of SS members to gray uniforms began. In fact, from that moment on, they stopped wearing black uniforms, giving preference to gray ones. Also for operations in Italy and the Balkans, SS units wore yellow uniforms. In 1944, the wearing of black uniforms was abolished in Germany. Soviet cultural figures turned it into a memorable symbol of the SS man.

- Yes, I know that the Nazi uniform was invented by Hugo Boss, but objectively, the uniform is very beautiful. Stirlitz immediately comes to mind... And now our soldiers, they say, wear Yudashkin’s uniforms. So feel the difference, as they say. In general, I believe that art should be judged separately from the temporary circumstances in which it was created.

Alexey GOLOVIN,
psychologist (Krasnoyarsk):

Eduard PINYUGZHANIN,
TV journalist (Kirov):

Igor NELYUBIN,
press secretary of VyatkaTorf CJSC (Kirov):

Lyubov MOZHAEVA,
artistic director of the creative association “Union of Creators of Russia” (Irkutsk):

Sergey PLATONOV,
senior lecturer at the Department of Economics and Management in Construction (Irkutsk):

Hugo Boss was born on July 8, 1885 in Metzingen, Baden-Württemberg. He studied at the Volksschule and attended the Realschule until 1899. For three years he studied the merchant trade in Bad Urach.

In 1902, Boss went to work at a weaving factory in Metzingen. After completing military service, from 1903 to 1905 he worked at a weaving factory in Constanta.

In 1908, after the death of his parents, Hugo Boss took over their textile shop in Metzingen. In the same year, he married Anna Katharina Freysinger (German: Anna Katharina Freysinger). From this marriage was born a daughter, Gertrud (German: Gertrud), who in 1931 married sales agent Eugen Holy (German: Eugen Holy).

In 1914, Hugo Boss went to the front with the rank of chief corporal (German: Obergefreiter) and retired from the army with the same rank in 1918. Nothing is known about his active participation in the First World War. In 1923, Hugo Boss founded a small garment factory in Metzingen producing work and sportswear.
In 1930, his company was under threat of bankruptcy. On April 1, 1931, Hugo Boss joined the NSDAP (membership number 508889) and thereby saved his factory, receiving a party order for the production of uniforms for the SA, SS and Hitler Youth, other Nazi paramilitary structures and the Wehrmacht.

These are the black uniform for the SS (SchutzStaffel), the famous brown shirts for the SA stormtroopers (Sturmabteilung), as well as the black and brown uniform for the Hitler Youth.

The author of the black SS uniform, as well as many of the regalia of the Third Reich, was Karl Diebitsch. He was born in 1899. He would die many years after the end of World War II in 1985. He also served in the SS as an Oberfuhrer. He designed the SS uniforms together with graphic designer Walter Heck. Diebitsch also designed the Ahnenerbe logo and crosses for SS officers. By the way, Diebitsch was also the director of the Porzellan Manufaktur Allach porcelain factory in 1936 before the factory was transferred to the SS department and moved to Dachau.
Walter Heck, a graphic artist, was also an SS-Hauptsturmführer. It was he who developed the SS emblem in 1933, combining two “Zig” runes (the “Zig” rune - lightning in ancient German mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor). He also designed the SA emblem

Very soon the company became one of the main manufacturers of military and paramilitary uniforms. With the outbreak of World War II, his factory was declared an important military enterprise and received an order to produce Wehrmacht uniforms. However, Hugo Boss was only one of 75,000 German private tailors sewing the army.
Production continued throughout the war. The company received enormous profits from the National Socialist state.
According to one version, Hugo Boss and his team could be the personal tailors of the Fuhrer and the Reich hierarchs; at least, it is clear that the company enjoyed their patronage.

The expansion of production and profits of the factory was facilitated by the use of slave labor of citizens of occupied countries, who were kept in inhumane conditions and exploited in the most inhumane manner. During the war, the enterprise used the forced labor of 140 Poles and 40 French prisoners. After the defeat of the Reich in 1945, the Allies tried Hugo Boss. But he, having convinced the court that he became a Nazi out of necessity, avoided prison; he was sentenced to a huge fine of 100 thousand marks. “Of course, my father belonged to the Nazi Party,” says 83-year-old Siegfried Boss today. “But who didn’t belong to it then?”

Boss SA Assault Troop Uniform

SS and GESTAPO caps designed by Hugo Boss

Collection autumn 1934-winter 1935

Collection 1935, Berlin

Hitler's costume, designed by Hugo Boss, 1935. Photo from a women's magazine

After the war, Boss quickly switched to sewing uniforms for policemen, railway workers and postmen, as well as work clothes. After the death of Hugo Boss in 1948, the company was headed by his son-in-law Eugen Holy. In 1953, Hugo Boss released the first men's suit. In 1967, the company passed into the hands of Eugen Holi's children, Uwe and Jonen.
1946: The factory almost burns down again: Hugo Boss is accused of collaborating with the Nazis, fined 80,000 marks and deprived of the right to vote.

1948: Hugo Boss dies, and the company is headed by his son-in-law Eugen Holy. Hugo Boss once again specializes in uniforms for railway workers and postmen.

1953: Hugo Boss launches the first men's suit. This is a turning point in the history of the company: it begins to move away from mass production of clothing and gradually approaches the world of Haute Couture.

1967: Uwe and Jochen Holy, the children of the former head of the company and the grandchildren of its founder, become the head of the company. They are the ones who turn the brand into a world-famous fashion brand.

1970s: Hugo Boss grows rapidly. Firstly, the company becomes Germany's largest manufacturer of men's clothing. Secondly, the company is turning into an influential fashion house.

1972: Hugo Boss sponsors Formula 1 racing and golf and tennis championships for the first time.

1975: talented fashion designer Werner Baldessarini begins collaborating with Hugo Boss.

1984: launch of the brand's perfume line.

1993: the company becomes the property of the Italian holding Marzotto SpA (currently Valentino Fashion Group). The Hawley brothers are leaving the company. Peter Littman becomes the general director of the company. He divides the brand into lines with different target audiences: Boss, offering classic clothes, Hugo with bold youth models, Baldessarini with luxury products.

1996: Hugo Boss Award for Contemporary Art.

1997: the company receives a license to produce watches together with the Swiss brand Tempus Concept.

2000: The men's brand begins to produce clothing collections for women. Hugo Boss, once again accused of collaborating with the Nazis, joins the Remembrance, Responsibility, Future Foundation. It sets aside £500,000 to compensate former forced laborers.

2002: the appearance of the brand's children's line.

2004: opening of a boutique with an area of ​​1100 m2 in Paris at 115 Champs-Elysees.

2005: launch of the Boss Skin men's cosmetics line and obtaining a license to produce glasses.

2006: First collaboration between Volker Kahele, creative director of Hugo Boss and Jamiroquai frontman Jay Kay. The joint JK for Hugo collection features biker jackets and gloves, trousers, and jersey items.

2007: Private equity firm Permira acquires a majority stake in Hugo Boss Group. The Baldessarini brand is bought by Werner Baldessarini. Hugo Boss now has a Boss Selection line, replacing the sold brand.

2008: obtaining a license for the joint production of women's jewelry with the Swarovski brand.

2009: Samsung Hugo Boss mobile phone released.

2009: the number of people working at Hugo Boss exceeds 9 thousand people.

2012: publication of Roman Kester’s book “Hugo Boss, 1924-1945”, ordered by the company’s management. The work tells about the times of the factory’s collaboration with the Nazis.

Today Hugo Boss is one of the most recognizable fashion houses. The company's main shareholder is Valentino Fashion Group. Chief Executive Officer: Bruno Sälzer. The company's designers were Werner Baldessarini, Andrea Canelloni, Jose Hang, Volker Keichele, Bruno Pieters, Graham Black, Eian Allen, Karin Busnel, Bart de Becker.