How to attach an album block to a leather cover. Types of handmade album bindings. To create the binding I used

In most cases, photo albums with an abundance of decorations for scrapbooking are mounted on metal rings. It is quite difficult to deal with them differently: as a rule, sewing them in a different way is hindered by the many volumetric elements on the page. How to make a good binding for an album? I offer you a way to bind pages using glue.

First, I made all the pages for the album (the size of my pages is 27x29 cm), leaving 1 cm for the fold near the spine:

I left 1 cm at the spine on each page. In fact, then we will only need one fold at the spine for the spread, but it is better to leave it everywhere, because While working, sometimes you want to swap pages. When we are already firmly sure where each page will be located in the future album, we can cut off the folded centimeter on one of the facing pages.

And we use the second fold to glue our pages into spreads. I glued them with Moment Crystal glue, but this is not critical, I think everyone can choose any other favorite glue. To ensure that I applied a bead of glue evenly to just the folded portion of the page, I protected the rest with a sheet of plain office paper.

Spread the glue and glue it on:

We glue all the other spreads in the same way, folding them in the right order.

To ensure that the album lasts a long time and does not deteriorate from frequent viewing, I glued ribbons of cotton fabric to each fold of each spread. Now our folds are not afraid of stress when turning over; it is unlikely that the fabric strips will allow them to tear.

Next, I prepared the beer cardboard that we will have between the pages. Of course, you can also make soft pages that are not reinforced with a cardboard layer. But pages on cardboard have a number of advantages: they look much better, they are not easy to wrinkle, and when gluing pages onto cardboard, all the paper irregularities that were formed as a result of working with sprays and hot embossing are smoothed out. I chose beer cardboard because it is quite light and fits perfectly into the inner frame of the album. I have 5 spreads in my album, which means we need 4 sheets of cardboard, and the side pages will serve as endpapers and are attached to the cover itself. The vertical size of the cardboard is the same as the page, and the horizontal size is 5 mm smaller. I glued strips of the same cardboard about 1 cm wide to each sheet of cardboard at the spine on both sides. It is they that give the thickening at the spine, which will allow us not to skimp on volumetric elements and feel free to decorate the pages with them.

As you can see, the height of these strips does not reach the edges of the cardboard. This makes them invisible in the future.

Now you can glue the spreads onto the cardboard. I glued it using spray glue. But here again, whoever likes to glue with what, the main thing is that the glue is reliable, spreads out neatly, and that it doesn’t cause the paper to bleed. We glue the spreads onto the cardboard so that between the fold on the spine of the spread and the edge of the cardboard there remains the same 5 mm that we laid when we cut the cardboard 5 mm smaller than the pages. This is necessary so that the album opens up well in the future.

This is what the indentation of the cardboard from the spine of the spread looks like:

On the back of this cardboard we glue the left part of the following spread:

I additionally coated the spine with glue and made a press for it from office clips so that everything would stick even tighter:

I made the cover exactly the same as in the notebook cover master class. I prepared two sheets of thick binding cardboard covered with a layer of fleece, the vertical size of which is 5 mm larger than the pages on each side (in my case 30 cm), and the horizontal size corresponds to the width of the page (in my case 27 cm). Just like for the notebook, I made the spine, measuring the height of the spine of the album itself, which we glued together, I got 3 cm. And, as before, I glued the cardboard parts of the binding cover to the spine at a distance of 5 mm from it.

First I glued the top parts:

And then the side ones, forming neat corners:

The cover frame is ready, you can try it on the album:

Now you can decorate the cover, sew ties to it or attach it with an elastic band. I also painted the white sections of cardboard on which we glued the pages with brown acrylic paint, and glued an imitation captal to the spine: I simply crocheted two pieces of paper and glued them with a beautiful braid on top.

The result is an album that looks like a big good book:

When creating a handmade album, an important part is a beautiful binding. Binding carries not only aesthetic value, but also a constructive necessity. It is the binding that holds the pages of the album. Therefore, the importance of binding in creating an album can be given first place!

What is album binding?

Album binding is a way of connecting sheets in an album.
Watch a detailed video on making binding in our Scrapbooking School

There are a great many types of handmade album bindings. Each master with imagination and courage in experiments can create his own binding, which everyone else will then repeat. This is how Elena Vinogradova left her mark in the history of Russian scrapbooking.
Let's look at the most popular types of bindings.

Types of bindings:

Binding on rings or ribbons

This is the simplest type of binding. To complete this binding, you only need a hole punch (or cropodile) and the rings themselves. Rings can be replaced with ribbons. You can see the process of creating a ring binding by watching Master Class Travel Book

Advantages of ring or ribbon binding:

• Technically easy to implement
• It takes little time to complete
• Makes it easier to create an album cover
• You can add new sheets to the album and rearrange sheets in the album.

Disadvantages of ring binding:

• Special tools are required (hole punch, crocodile and grommets).
• Hole on the page.
• When creating a composition on a page, it is necessary to take into account that a hole will be made on one side for the rings.
• Problems with ring sizes.

Maybe the last point concerns only me. To be honest, I always make mistakes with the diameter of the rings.
When purchasing rings, it is difficult to predict in advance how thick the album will be. If you measure the thickness of the album at the preparation stage, then you still need to leave some room for an increase in thickness from decorations, volumetric elements, and other things. Ideally suitable rings should not be too large, so that the pages do not dangle, and should not be small, so that when the album is fully opened, there is a gap of 5-6 mm between the sheets.
If there is no gap between the sheets, then the pages of the album will be difficult to turn through, they will touch each other.
I can only give one piece of advice: buy rings for a ready-made album using the matching method or insert holes in the tape.

Book binding by Elena Vinogradova

A little history.

Elena Vinogradova began her work in scrapbooking in 2009. And she posted the famous MK on book binding on her blog in June 2010. Since then, photographs of this master class have circulated the length and breadth of the Russian Internet. What a success!

The album's book binding is the most aesthetically pleasing of all. The album spine covers the pages and the album looks expensive and beautiful.

Advantages of book binding:

• The undeniable advantage is the appearance
• You can make albums of different formats from miniatures to large albums 30x30cm.
• No special tools are required to perform binding.

Flaws:

• Pages cannot be rearranged
• It has restrictions on the number of sheets in the album (as a rule, no one makes more than 10-15 spreads in a book-bound album).
• Requires time to complete.

I didn’t consider the technical difficulty in execution as a disadvantage. It's not a mistake! The binding seems difficult to perform only at first glance. If you spend time and delve into the master class, then everything becomes easy and simple.

The blank for the album is a ready-made factory binding; you can buy it at an affordable price in the Scrapbooking Store

Book binding video:

Simplified book binding of the album

This binding is based on the same principle as the book binding of Elena Vinogradova. It is also compared to Coptic binding in notebooks.

Advantages:

• Closed album cover spine
• Fast in execution

Flaws:

• Applicable only in mini-albums due to the nature of the technology
• Page design is possible only on finished binding

Fabric binding of the album

Fabric can be purchased at a scrapbooking supply store.
Most often, fabric binding is found in mixed media albums and small format albums.

Advantages:

• Easy to perform
• Fast in execution
• Cover with closed spine. Externally, book covers and fabric covers are no different.

Flaws:

• A sewing machine is required

Fabric binding video:

Fabric binding is great for mini-albums. Unfortunately, I cannot say that it is possible or impossible in 30x30cm albums with a large number of sheets.

Scrapbooking is the art of creating and designing original photo albums. The main goal of this type of needlework is to turn a boring photo album into a unique story from our lives. In this article you will learn the history of the development of scrapbooking, as well as how to make an album cover, binding and secrets.

Notepads were popular in the 16th century to record important dates, quotes, recipes, and more. At the end of the 17th century, a book appeared that had additional blank pages so that the owner could paste in the illustrations he liked. After the advent of color printing, collectors actively began to collect cut-out images in their albums. This was the beginning of the development of scrapbooking.

In the 19th century, when photography began to actively develop in scarpbooking, a real revolution took place: special pockets for photos began and people began coloring the pages themselves. Girls' albums with drawings, photographs, stickers and secrets have become popular. Today, many styles of scrapbooking have emerged and it has regained popularity around the world.

Scrapbooking album, do it yourself

Cover for a photo album using scrapbooking technique

Materials:

- canvas;
- cardboard or paper with millimeter markings;
- padding polyester;
- PVA;
- cardboard;
- scissors;
— eyelets;
- rings.

• Decide on the dimensions of the album. In our master class, the album turned out to be 30x30.
• Using graph paper or sheet, measure 30cm long and 30cm wide on regular cardboard.

• Cut a piece of padding polyester of the same size.
• Glue the padding polyester onto the cardboard with PVA glue.
• Cut a square of canvas, making a margin of 1 cm on each side so that it is convenient to glue. Glue the canvas onto the padding polyester.
• To cover the pieces of material, a sheet of cardboard is glued to the inside. The back cover for the album is ready.

• Glue padding polyester to the front of the cover, and canvas on top, but without a window.
• Now carefully cut out the window and glue the edges to the cardboard.

• Make holes for the eyelets at a distance of 2 cm from the edge.

If you want the album not to have rings, but like a bound book, then do not make holes for the eyelets. You can decorate the cover to your liking, not necessarily the same as in the first master class.

To fill the album you will need sheets. It is best to use cardboard. Also cut additional strips, 2-2.5 cm wide, for gluing the main sheets together. Ready-made colored pages, for example, paper or thin cardboard with color prints, are also useful.

On each strip in the center, measure a strip 2-4 mm wide; for this you can use a pen that does not write or a sharp object. This is done so that voluminous decorations, for example, convex paper flowers, can be stored in the album. The edges of the strips must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees on both sides. Fold the strips so that the marked strip remains in the center and begin gluing to the pages. All pages need to be glued evenly so that the album also comes out even and not skewed.

You can determine the number of pages yourself. After the middle of the album is ready, we begin binding. To do this, take gauze or a bandage, cut a strip to the height of the album and at the same time 1.5-2 cm larger than the width. Now you need to take a piece of braid or tape and stick it on the upper and lower edges of the binding. Thanks to the braid, the edges will look aesthetically attractive, and the binding will also be more durable.

Make a spine out of thick paper that will completely cover the binding and protrude 1-1.5 cm. Attach it to the album, and glue the cover on top to the folds of the spine.

Do not glue the spine itself to the binding, otherwise the album pages will not open freely. Open the cover and glue the protruding layer of bandage or gauze and the ends of the tape to it. The most convenient way to do this is not with PVA glue, but with transparent “Moment”.

Everyone who wants to make a photo album plans for it to be interesting, beautiful and original. Sometimes the volume of an album does not allow you to place a large number of photos in it, so we offer unique ideas for its design.

Secrets are a way of arranging inscriptions, drawings or photos, which is known to every schoolgirl who had a “girl album”. There are several options for their design for a photo album.

1. Secrets based on the postcard principle. Make the card to match the background color of the album page. Glue the main photo on the front side, and a secret inside. The flip page can be secured with tape, a lock, or cord.
2. Secrets in pockets. Think in advance where such a pocket will be located and make it in the color of the page. Paste the main photos on top and decorate the page. Don't forget to put your photo secret in your pocket. In the photo it is better to make a loop or make a hole for the grommet to make it easier to pull out. You can decorate the pocket so that additional pictures are pasted on it and visually hidden.

Thanks to the secrets, it is easy to paste vertical and horizontal photographs on one page of the photo album. Also, the photo itself can become a pocket for another one. You can stick a photo on a postcard and stick a few more photos inside. “Sandwiches” made from photos and paper look original, thanks to which you can hide several surprises on the page.

Do you want to paste a large photo into your album, but don’t have space? Glue the photo onto a piece of paper in the background color so that the fold can be conveniently glued to the base of the album. Now the large photo can open, and stick other photos under it. Secure the large photo with thread or a lock. In the same way, it’s easy to glue many more photos, if instead of a large photo you use several small ones, and save the technology for secrets.

To make your album look creative, cut off vertical or horizontal sections of individual pages and decorate them as if they were an extension of the next page. Don’t forget that it is permissible not only to paste a photo, but also to sew it on. This will add zest to the finished product. Sew some photos with an accordion and secure them to a cord.

If it seems that some photos do not fit into the plot, hide them behind a decorative door. For children's albums, use drawings of flowers or animals, behind which secrets will also be hidden.

I want to tell you how I make binding for an album with a lot of spreads.

Most often I make standard scrapbooks with 5 spreads. But sometimes, at the request of the customer, really real plump ones are created, the binding of which must be especially strong.

To create the binding I used:

Sintepon;

If you look at the cheat sheet, we will see the binding - top view, i.e. The dashes are our pages. I make the outer pages circled in red from cardstock, and all other pages from beer cardboard.

Since I already had several spreads designed, I “adjusted” the size of the cardboard pages to fit them - at the rate of plus 0.5 cm in height and width. For example, if I have a framed and decorated page measuring 19x24 cm, then the binding page will be 19.5 x 24.5 cm.

I use an old nail file to finish the ends of each beer cardboard page.

Since the cardboard is soft, it gets dirty easily.

I cut out the outer pages from cardstock or thick watercolor paper.

Sometimes I use thin gray school cardboard and paint the edges with white acrylic.

I cut strips for gluing pages together (I’ll call them “jumpers”) from white school cardboard, thick cardstock or thick watercolor paper. But here you need to experiment, since some types of cardboard or paper can break or crumble at the folds; it is better not to use such material.

I cut the jumpers as follows. The edges are 2 cm wide, the center (the distance between two pages) is from 0.5 to 1 cm, depending on the volume of the decor. In this case, I used the standard 0.7 cm. I cut off the corners of the jumpers (seen in the photo) slightly so that when sticking the decorated page, this corner does not peek out from above and below - approximately at an angle of minus 30 degrees.

Since I have an album with a large number of spreads, I need to strengthen the jumpers. I glue them (using Moment Crystal glue) with decorative tape and hide the edges on the back side. This is not a satin ribbon or a grosgrain ribbon, it is more dense in texture. Sometimes I can sew such a tape with a zigzag, but lately I have been trying not to perforate the spine.

I'm starting to glue the jumpers to the pages on "Crystal". Please note that the cardboard pages are not glued to the very edge of the jumper, but at a distance of approximately 1 mm from the fold - this is necessary so that the pages open well.

First I glue all the cardboard pages, folding the binding to one side.

Along the edges, make sure that the pages are glued evenly along the edges. I glue the outer pages from cardstock. The photo shows the blue watercolor paper I used.

I assembled such a ladder and bend the binding in the opposite direction.

All edges at the top and bottom of the album should be even in this position - at the same level.

I'm starting to strengthen the spine. I take thick watercolor paper, bend it around the spine and, after smearing it well, glue it onto the “Crystal”. I'm waiting for it to dry.

In case suddenly (although this has never happened) while using the album the paper on the spine begins to fray, we secure everything with a cloth. I used linen, sometimes I use cotton or gauze. I also glue the fabric onto the Crystal. Sometimes I use PVA glue, but it leads the paper slightly - I don’t like it.

I decorate the top and bottom of the spine with a ribbon with pom-poms; you can use special ribbons.

Then I collect all the sheets in a pile and fasten them with a clamp. I place the binding on the spine, checking that it is perfectly level - that it is adjacent to the table surface on all edges. I leave it to dry for a couple of hours, after which I open each spread several times to make the spine softer.

While the spine is drying, I start creating the cover.

I cut out two covers from beer cardboard at the rate of plus 0.5 cm to the height of the album sheets and plus 0.25 cm to the width of the album sheets. For example, if I cut sheets of beer cardboard 19.5 x 24.5 cm, then the cover will be 19.75 x 25 cm.

I make a sandwich in the following order: first, fabric (preferably cotton), padding polyester (mine is 1 cm thick), cardboard.

I sign for myself where I will have the spine. I smear the glue stick all over this side and glue the fabric along the entire length.

I retreat about three centimeters from the spine side and glue the fabric on top, bottom and right. At the same time I form the corners.

I’m not really an expert in corners, although I really like everything to be neat. I show you how I make them. I cut the fabric, not reaching the corner by about 0.5 cm. This is necessary in order to remove excess thickness. I glue one side, I turn the other side, helping myself with an awl, I glue it. I glue everything with a glue stick.

As a result, we get two covers. I sew a decorative stitch on the spine side. Fabric that has not been glued will not be stitched.

I'm starting to make the album spine.

For the spine I use thick cardstock, thin cardboard or watercolor paper. I measure the spine of the binding, which is now drying, and add 0.5 cm to it. This will be the thickness of the spine of the album. I set aside 2.5 cm on both sides to glue the spine to the cover. The blank for the spine is creased vertically at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm so that the spine of the album has a semicircular shape.

I make a sandwich: fabric, padding polyester, spine.

I glue the fabric onto a glue stick. Since the shape of the spine is slightly semicircular, I trim the fabric at the top and bottom in some places to avoid wrinkles.

I decorate the covers and spine.

I glue the covers and spine using Crystal glue. I attach clamps in places for better gluing.

The amazing art of scrapbooking originated not so long ago, but immediately gained immense popularity among needlewomen. This paper working technique is ideal for creating incredibly beautiful and original photo albums. Try to preserve the most pleasant memories using scrapbooking: a step-by-step master class on learning how to properly bind an album with step-by-step photos and a detailed description of all steps is given below.

Learning scrapbooking techniques: master class on album binding

• thick cardboard about 1.5-2 mm thick;
• elastane-free fabric or leather for album cover;
• cotton fabric for binding;
• padding polyester;
• thick paper;
• cutter (special tool for bookbinding or a regular construction cutter);
• ruler;
• stationery knife;
• construction double-sided adhesive tape;
• glue “Moment Crystal” or its equivalent;
• sewing machine (if available).

We cut the cardboard into pieces of the required size. To make an album with 9 spreads, you need 10 sheets measuring about 30*30 cm (you can use a different size of parts). For the album cover, use a cutter to cut out sheets 31 cm high and 30.5 cm wide. Do not forget to monitor the cutting accuracy. It must be remembered that landscape cardboard is very dense and cutting it will require considerable effort.

From paper for pastels or watercolors, using a cutter or scissors, we cut strips measuring 3.5*30 cm. For our album, we need to make 9 paper strips. We additionally cut two more blanks measuring 3.5*31 cm for the cover.

Creasing (applying a longitudinal mark for subsequent folding of the paper) is also performed using a cutter, but using special creasing inserts instead of blades. If you don't have a cutter, you can bend the strips by hand using a ruler.

We adhere to the following dimensions: 1.5 cm (edge) – 0.5 cm (fold between sheets) – 1.5 cm (edge). We crease strips for the cover with other parameters: 1.6 cm (edge) – 0.3 cm (fold between sheets) – 1.6 cm (edge).

We cut off the top part of each strip at an angle of 45 degrees using scissors and a straight edge. It is convenient to do this on a special cutting mat. We carefully fold the finished parts along the previously outlined lines.

We monitor the accuracy of the height alignment of the workpieces. We connect all the cardboard parts together using strips and glue, with the exception of blanks for covers and endpapers (we will glue them last). The result is a structure of 8 sheets glued together with 9 paper strips, and two strips at the edges remain free.

The width of the binding of our album should be approximately 5 cm. From cotton fabric we cut out a blank with a width equal to the width of the binding plus 1.5 cm on each side. That is, the fabric strip should be 8*30 cm in size. We glue it to the binding, and carefully cover the edges of the strip with tape to prevent them from fraying.

• two sheets of cardboard measuring 30.5*31 cm;
• cardboard blank 5.5 cm wide and 31 cm long;
• two paper strips, punched to size 1.6 – 0.3 – 1.6 cm;
• cotton fabric;
• padding polyester

We glue the strips to cardboard blanks to form the future cover. We cut out the padding polyester to the size of the cover and the fabric with a margin of 1.5 cm on each side for folds. We mount the padding polyester to the surface of the cardboard using construction double-sided adhesive tape. Carefully fold the edges of the cover fabric (in our case it is genuine leather) and mount them to the cardboard using double-sided tape, paying special attention to the corners.

Using a sewing machine, sew the cover along each side. It's okay, you don't have a typewriter. In this case, it is quite possible to get by with just sizing, but instead of leather, you should choose thick cotton fabric without adding elastane, and the edges of the folds should be glued to Moment Crystal glue or its equivalent.

We install metal corners at the corners of the cover and securely fix them with glue and carefully crimp them with pliers.

The scrapbook cover is almost ready. All that remains is to decorate it as you wish. Flat elements should be used as decoration: decor, inscriptions, pieces of thick paper with a pattern or unusual texture. We collect them in advance and glue them to the front of the album cover.

If desired, you can make a fastener using Velcro, buckles or buttons.

Then we glue the inside of the future album to the cover. To do this, generously coat the binding fabric (or leather) with glue and press them firmly against the cardboard part of the cover. We also glue the free part of the paper strips from the first and last pages to the cover cardboard. We do the same on the other side.

Then we move on to installing the endpaper. We carefully glue the loose cardboard to the endpapers and place it under the press for several hours. It should take approximately 7-8 hours for the glue to dry completely.

As a result, we get a blank for an album in scrapbooking style with a beautiful book binding. All that remains is to decorate the pages as you wish and paste in your favorite photos.

Video on the topic of the article

Other master classes on making album binding using the scrapbooking technique can be studied in the videos below.