How to properly set up your digital camera? How to set up a new camera? Step-by-step instruction

Today there is a camera in almost every home. Many people have a camera on their phone, while others buy a digital camera for themselves to take professional photos.

Digital cameras are not the easiest technology to use. Therefore, when buying a digital camera, you should know how to properly set up the camera so that it will help you capture the shots you like in the best quality.

Setting the camera includes white balance

To make your photos look beautiful, you need to balance the whites. Usually the automatic setup mode helps to achieve this.

Before you set your camera to white balance, it is worth knowing that white balance systems are characterized by correction of the natural color deviation into the bright area.

With your camera set up this way, your photos may look unnatural. For example, if you photograph a sunset or sunrise, with these parameters you will not get the true colors of these beautiful natural phenomena.

It is worth considering that when photographing outdoors, you need to set the camera to Daylight mode or Sunny mode.

These camera settings will allow you to take photos of even better quality than with the Auto mode, which is designed for shooting in low light and cloudy weather.

If you haven't figured out how to set your camera to white balance, keep in mind that modern cameras have options for white balance settings.

You can adjust the white balance for shadows using Shady mode or shoot with Cloudy mode on a cloudy day.

Using these two photo modes, your photos will have pleasing hues that reflect the real colors of the subjects you photograph.

But don't overdo it. If you don't set up your camera correctly, your photos will look unnatural. To set up your camera correctly, it's best to try different white balance modes to find the best option for you.

Another custom setting, Customs Manual, allows you to set white balance parameters manually.

By adjusting the white balance, you can give your photos different effects, including neutrality, warmth, and coolness. You can also set up a neutral calibration target.

2. How to set up the camera correctly: set the sharpness

The level of sharpness of your photos is very important when processing the photos you take. Adjust the sharpness level.

Some people think that this value should be set to maximum for sharp images, but usually with such sharpness the edges of the photo look unnatural.

You also cannot set the camera to minimum sharpness, because then small moments in the picture will be blurred. Try to experiment with sharpness to achieve a happy medium, gradually increasing the sharpness.

Correctly setting up your camera involves setting up autofocus

Autofocus can be adjusted automatically. If you want to change this setting, set the focus point so that a nearby subject is closer to the center of the frame.

If the subject is not centered and there are several other objects placed around it, the camera's automatic adjustment may not place the focus point correctly.

It is better to set the AF point manually. Then you independently choose where the active point will be.

The Select AF and Single point AF modes will help you correctly set up autofocus at a single point.

If the desired subject is not in the autofocus point, the focus and recomposition technique will help.

Selecting the most sensitive center AF point and moving the camera toward the subject will solve the problem.

Lightly pressing the shutter button will allow the camera to focus the lens correctly.

How to properly set up your camera: flash synchronization

The flash usually appears at the beginning of the exposure, which is useful when shooting a stationary subject or at a fast shutter speed.

Long exposures or moving subjects require different camera settings to ensure that the photos look beautiful without the subject appearing to be blurred and carried forward according to the exposed, sharp version.

To know how to set up your camera correctly and avoid such cases, open the camera menu or flash menu, then enable second-curtain flash synchronization in Rear Sync mode. Synchronization will allow the flash to appear at the end of the exposure.

In the photo, your subject will be clear, and all other active objects behind it will be slightly blurred, and will be able to emphasize the speed of movement.

How to set up your camera correctly to reduce noise during long exposures

Thanks to the Noise Reduction function, you can compare the main image with the so-called “black frame” and “subtract” its noise to create a beautiful photo.

The black frame and the main image use the same exposure time, but in the first case the shutter does not open, preventing light from reaching the sensor.

You need to set up the camera in such a way as to record non-random noise, which is caused by changes in pixel sensitivity during long exposures.

This feature tends to irritate photographers because with long exposures, using noise reduction mode takes much longer to record photos.

The camera's built-in noise reduction system is the best option for this setting.

How to set up your camera correctly: long shutter speed

To create a well-sharp image when shooting handheld with a full-frame camera, you need to use a shutter speed that is equal to one second divided by the focal length of the lens. So with a 100mm lens the shutter speed will be at least 1/100 s.

Also, this camera setting mode is suitable for DX cameras, taking into account the factor of increasing the focal length.

If you find it difficult to adjust this parameter, we remind you that modern cameras have a standard shutter speed scale in fractions of a second and built-in image stabilization systems.

Such systems make it possible to take photos with a slower shutter speed when shooting manually. You can also reduce the shutter speed using exposure compensation (1/125 to 1/16).

We hope our tips will tell you how to set up your camera correctly. We bring to your attention a few more tips on setting up your camera in pictures, with which you can easily understand the issue of setting optimal parameters.

Both experts and photographers unanimously agreed that each of the following 44 advice plays an important role in honing skills.

So arm yourself with new knowledge about using your settings. digital cameras to reach new heights.

Let's imagine a situation in which an interesting picture suddenly appears in front of you, and you want to capture it. You pull the trigger and are disappointed. Because the frame was shot with an inappropriate ISO value, etc. The moment was missed. You can avoid this if you check and reset your settings every time. camera before moving from one shoot to the next. Select settings according to your shooting conditions.

Please format the memory card before taking photographs. Quick formatting does not erase images. Pre-formatting the memory card minimizes the risk of any data corruption.

The camera firmware is the software that processes the images, customizes a range of settings, and even controls the functions available to you. Check your camera manufacturer's website to find out how your camera can be updated with the latest software.

Do not blindly rely on the fact that the battery in your camera is fully charged. Charge it and make sure it has enough power if you plan to shoot for a long time. And if you prefer to take a lot of photographs, then it would be best for you to purchase a spare battery.

In most cases, the camera will default to high-resolution photography no matter what you're photographing. But do you always need this? Sometimes a small image is all you need. After all, reducing the resolution not only means that more photos will fit on the memory card. In this case, you can also increase the shooting speed. If you enjoy sports photography, lowering the resolution will help you avoid lag while your camera clears its buffer.

If you are going to edit the footage or do retouching, then it will be more suitable format RAW thanks to its increased capacity. But files in RAW format are large, so the camera will need more time to work with them. In addition, you will not be able to print them without pre-processing.

If shooting speed doesn’t play an important role for you, then it’s difficult to decide. Why not use both formats at the same time? Most digital cameras provide this option. And only when the images are on your computer, decide on the format. The main thing is not to forget about an additional memory card.

When professional photographers are not busy shooting on target, they spend a lot of time experimenting. This could be testing a lens to determine the best aperture or focal length for it. As well as testing ISO and white balance to see which options give the best results, or even testing the dynamic range to stay informed about the sensor's capabilities.
You can do the same thing with your camera to know exactly where its strengths and weaknesses are. This is not a search for the perfect shot, but an experiment with equipment to learn about its potential and try out new techniques that will be useful in future shooting.

A good tripod is worth its weight in gold, so don't skimp on your budget on this point. It is better to buy a quality tripod that will last you a long time. This is a long term investment. And don't forget to take it with you when you go shooting.

The very act of mounting your camera on a tripod can slow you down. While this will help you concentrate on what you're photographing, keeping your camera fixed can take away the spontaneity of your photos. We come to the conclusion that it is best to mix both of these techniques, using them interchangeably. If you use a tripod religiously, try taking shots without using one. Also, if you usually work without a tripod, bring one with you to see the difference in photography results.

Tips #10: Makeshift Camera Support

You don't need to use a tripod to keep your camera stable. Be creative. You can use a wall or tree as support, or even a bag of rice as a platform. All this will help to avoid camera shake.

The horizon line in the photograph should look strictly horizontal, without tilting. If your digital camera has a digital horizon level, use it. This will help you save time editing your photos later in Photoshop. Many DSLRs have an assist grid that can be activated. It is superimposed on the live image and visible on the camera's LCD screen. Focus on it. The horizon must coincide with the horizontal grid line. Alternatively, use the AF points in the center of the viewfinder to do the same.

This may seem obvious, but double-check your camera bag if you'll be taking photos away from home. It may contain a camera, lenses, a tripod and accessories. Don't forget the adapter ring if you are using screen filters and the like. A forgotten small part is more likely to derail your trip than the main pieces of your kit.

Don't overly rely on your camera's autofocus. In some situations, manual focusing is much better. For example, to photograph a fast-moving subject on a race track or to focus on detail during macro photography.

DSLR digital compacts can have a dizzying number of autofocus points. But for most shots you only need one - the center one. Place it behind your subject, press the shutter button halfway to lock focus, and then simply recompose your shot.

A bad lens will always be a bad lens, no matter what camera you put it on. Therefore, before you decide to change your camera, thinking that you have outgrown it, think about purchasing a new lens. This may turn out to be a good solution. A few extra pixels and clever settings in a new camera can be tempting. But most likely, you will be better off with a maximum aperture and higher quality optics to improve the quality of your photos with the camera you already have.

There are thousands of lenses left over from the days of 35mm film. Many DSLRs are "backwards compatible" with them (especially Nikon and Pentax). They can still have applications in this digital age. Plus, they're so affordable that they provide a great opportunity to expand your focal length arsenal. But there is also a downside. Some lenses perform better than others, and the only real way to weed out the good ones from the not so good ones is to try them out in action. In general, zoom lenses, as well as those with wide-angle focal lengths, tend to perform worse. In addition, there is a need for manual focusing. In-camera exposure metering can be unpredictable and unreliable. However, there are a few manual focus lenses that can actually outperform today's inexpensive zoom lenses in terms of sharpness.

Wide-angle lenses can create the impression of increased distance between near and far elements, while a telephoto lens visually brings the subject closer and compresses the perspective. Use focal length situationally. Consider the distance of the subject of photography.

If you want to increase the depth of field in the frame at a given focal length, then select the camera to manually focus at the hyperfocal distance (HFD). This will ensure maximum image sharpness from half the focal length to infinity.

Most viewfinders don't give you 100% coverage, so it's easy for unwanted elements to fall into the frame. The only way to avoid this is to simply check the camera's LCD screen after a test shot. If there is nothing superfluous in the frame, change the composition and photograph again.

Even when shooting static subjects, use continuous burst mode. Subtle changes in lighting, such as when photographing a landscape with floating clouds. Or when shooting a portrait, when a change in facial expression is noticeable. These are examples of shots where "great moments" happen that might be missed if you took a single shot. So shoot a lot and then choose the best shots.

Serious photographers are skeptical about this. But we urge you not to completely ignore your camera's exposure modes. Especially for the paparazzi. For example, Landscape mode tends to set the light aperture to be small and increase the saturation. And Portrait mode combines a wide aperture with more subdued colors. Both can be used beyond their intended purpose. The main thing is to understand the given parameters and use them creatively.

Don't underestimate your camera's mode (P). Its selection allows you to effectively set the most suitable aperture and shutter speed for correct exposure of the frame in automatic mode. If you need a wide aperture, just "go" to the program to get it. Want a slower shutter speed? Twist in the opposite direction.

In a nutshell, the aperture controls the depth of field of the image, and the shutter speed controls the shutter speed, that is, the speed of shooting. Not sure which shooting mode to choose? Decide which of these two elements you want to maintain the most control over while shooting. This will be your decision.

If you don't know what the dynamic range of your camera sensor is, you won't be able to tell when a scene will exceed it. This way you will lose highlights or shadowed details. There are many ways to measure dynamic range. DxO Labs has tested many digital cameras. You can always use their data as a guide. Visit www.dxomark.com to find out the range limits of your camera.

You can adjust the exposure of the image in the editing program. But an underexposed shot will magnify any noise, while an overexposed shot is largely impossible to recover. When in doubt, use bracketing. You will receive three frames with different values of the given parameter, one of which is correctly exposed. Use this feature even if you choose to shoot in RAW format.

Don't rely literally on the image histogram on your camera's LCD monitor. In bright light, images will appear darker than they actually are. And when you look at the screen at night, you'll see a brighter image, even if it's slightly underexposed. Therefore, it is necessary to learn how to read a histogram correctly. It is the only way to accurately assess the overall level of image brightness and allows you to assess the need for correction of shooting parameters. If the histogram hits the right end of the scale, consider reducing the impact and shoot again.

It is much easier to restore image detail in the shadowed areas of a photo than in the highlighted areas. Therefore, when contrast levels are high, maintain a high level of detail in bright areas.

Matrix (evaluative, multi-zone) camera metering measures the light level of a scene. Spot metering is also extremely useful. This makes a difference when you're shooting mostly bright or dark scenes. You can use it to select a mid tone, for example when shooting sidewalk or grass.

The camera's spot metering will allow you to get accurate meter readings to determine the contrast in a scene. Select one point from the brightest area and another from the darkest area. Determine the range between them. If it exceeds the dynamic range of the camera, you will have to resort to some clipping such as shadows, highlights. Or consider shooting for HDR (High Dynamic Range).

To determine the exposure range for HDR images, you need to take meter readings from the darkest and brightest areas of the scene. Then set your camera to aperture priority mode. Switch to manual aperture mode and use your readings as the starting and ending points for successive HDR images. Stop the shutter speed for a while until you have covered the exposure range. The influences can be combined into programs such as Photomatix.

Tip #31: Use ND Filters to Balance Exposure

For landscape shots, use a Neutral Density (ND) filter to balance the exposure between the sky and the ground. It's best to have an assortment of NDs in varying shade levels to be prepared for different conditions. Also, take two photos - one for the sky and one for the foreground. Then mix them together in your editing software.

Tip #32: Using an ND Filter to Expand Exposure

ND (Neutral Density) filters are quite dark. If you want to extend your shutter speed, they can become a challenge to control your aperture. A three-stop ND filter will allow you to open the aperture three stops to get a shallow depth of field. Moreover, even in bright lighting conditions.

The effect of a polarizing filter cannot be recreated digitally. This makes it a must-have choice for outdoor photographers looking to soften or enhance blue sky reflections. Don't skimp on price or you'll have to skimp on quality.

Tip #34: Is it black and white in camera or on computer?

Unless you know for sure that you want to print black and white images from a memory card, it is better to shoot in color. You can then convert the photos using image editing software. It will give you more options than your camera. If you decide to shoot black and white JPEG images, don't forget about the filter. Red, orange and yellow filters can add drama to a dull sky. And the orange filter will reduce the appearance of freckles and blemishes in portraits.

Because JPEG files are processed in-camera during shooting, it is preferable to use a preset white balance for them. Choose from the camera's provided options (daylight, shade, tungsten, etc.) rather than relying on the automatic option. Although automatic white balance is considered to some extent "basic". If you shoot in RAW files, you can afford to adjust the white balance when processing your images.

If you shoot in JPEG format and your camera allows it, try activating white balance bracketing. JPEG files take up minimal space on your memory card, and this can save you hours of correcting unwanted colors.

Intentionally setting the white balance incorrectly can give images an overall blue tint. This is if you are shooting in daylight with white balance in tungsten mode. But if you shoot under a tungsten lamp with white balance in daylight mode, you will end up with a warm orange tint. When shooting sunsets, auto white balance may try to change the overall warm tone, even though that's exactly what you're trying to capture. In this case, trick your camera and set the white balance to cloudy, which is designed to warm up a cool scene.

If you want the colors in your photos to be consistent from shot to shot, set the color as the target in the first frame of the sequence. When it comes to processing, set the gray (or black and white) points using the target landmark frame and your software will match the subsequent series of images.

Fill flash is great for lifting shadows and can also help create dramatic looks. Use the camera's exposure compensation to reduce the overall exposure by half a stop, then increase the exposure compensation by +1/2 to balance it out. Some cameras allow you to adjust the exposure for ambient light without affecting the flash exposure, in which case you won't need to dial +1/2 for the flash. The result is a frame dominated by a well-lit subject that stands out against a slightly darkened background.

Like flash, an external flash built into the camera has a qualitative effect on images. Especially if you use a dedicated flash that can be controlled and reflectors to reduce harsh shadows.

Use a significantly shorter flash duration than the shutter time, which will freeze high-velocity events. The simplest thing to start with is drops of water. And all you need for this is a dark room, a flash, and a lot of patience. Try this and you will get mesmerizing water drop images. And these are just the first steps in shooting with high-speed flash.

Video shooting using a SLR camera equipped with a CMOS sensor is accompanied by a rolling shutter. It may cause some specific phenomena when shooting video. The rolling shutter exposes each video frame in a specific sequence, starting at the top and working down. This is similar to how a scanner scans a document. If the camera is immobilized at this time, then there is no problem. But if you shoot panoramic shots, especially horizontally, the vertical lines may become distorted. Holding the camera in your hands and using a telephoto lens can enhance the effect. So use a tripod and/or a wider angle lens. Cameras with CCD sensors don't have this effect because they use a "global shutter" that renders each frame in its entirety, just like taking photographs.

Most DSLR cameras that can shoot video offer a wide range of frame rates. By the way, in the UK the standard frame rate is 25 frames per second (FPS). This is the speed you can consider as the “standard” speed for your video if you are going to show it on a TV screen. However, if your camera allows it, you can increase the video shooting speed up to 50fps. This way you will create Effect slow movement, when the video will play at 25 frames per second. It will look spectacular at half speed because every second piece of footage will play on the screen for two seconds longer. The standard level for the film is 24fps. While a difference of one frame per second doesn't seem significant, it's enough to give your footage a real cinematic look.

So much has been said about the fine particles of dust that can get on a camera sensor and cause defects in the image that many photographers are paranoid about changing lenses. But this is one of the main advantages of DSLR photography! There are a few simple precautions you should follow. Always turn off the camera when changing lenses. This will eliminate any static charge from the sensor that could attract dust particles. Protect your camera from wind and weather and make sure you have an interchangeable lens ready to use. And keep the camera lens opening facing down. This will minimize the risk of foreign particles entering when changing lenses.

In contact with

If you bought a camera more serious than a regular point-and-shoot camera, then most likely you will want to master manual settings (although they are also available on point-and-shoot cameras). And I would even advise you to do this as soon as possible, so that even if you shoot in automatic mode, you understand what is happening.

There are few main parameters on the camera that you will control, but they are all closely interconnected: shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance. There is also such a parameter as depth of field (depth of field), which itself cannot be set in any way, but is obtained due to other parameters. I’m afraid for the first reading all this will seem too complicated and scary, but here I can only advise you to try as much as possible at first. Shoot the same frame with different settings and then see what happens, look for relationships, analyze. And don’t forget about the instructions for the camera, it’s practically a reference book at first.

The main settings of a digital camera are shutter speed and aperture, their ratio is called exposure. Therefore, when they say you need to select exposure, they mean you need to set these two values.

Excerpt

It changes in seconds (1/4000, 1/125, 1/13, 1, 10, etc.) and means the time for which the camera curtain opens when the shutter is released. It is logical that the longer it is open, the more light will fall on the matrix. Therefore, depending on the time of day, the sun, and the level of illumination, there will be a different shutter speed parameter. If you use automatic mode, the camera itself will measure the light level and select a value.

But not only the illumination is affected by shutter speed, but also the blur of a moving object. The faster it moves, the shorter the shutter speed should be. Although in some cases, you can, on the contrary, make it longer in order to get an “artistic” blur. In the same way, smearing can result from trembling of your hands (movement), so you should always choose a value that will level out this problem, and also train so that there is less tremors. A good lens stabilizer can also help you with this; it allows you to use longer shutter speeds and prevents camera shake.

Rules for selecting shutter speed:

To prevent blur from hand shake, always try to set your shutter speed to no longer than 1/mm, where mm is the millimeters of your current focal length. Because the greater the focal length, the greater the likelihood of blur, and the more you need to shorten the shutter speed. For example, the boundary value for 50 mm would be a shutter speed of 1/50, and it would be even better to set it even shorter, somewhere around 1/80, just to be sure.
If you are photographing a walking person, the shutter speed should be no longer than 1/100.
For moving children, it is better to set the shutter speed no longer than 1/200.
Very fast objects (for example, when shooting from a bus window) require very short shutter speeds of 1/500 or less.
In the dark, to shoot static objects, it is better not to raise the ISO too much (especially above the working value), but to use long shutter speeds (1s, 2s, etc.) and a tripod.
If you want to shoot beautifully flowing water (with blur), then you need shutter speeds of 2-3 seconds (I don’t like the results any longer). And if splashes and sharpness are needed, then 1/500 - 1/1000.

The values are all taken from the head and do not pretend to be axioms; it is best to select them yourself from personal experience, so this is just for reference.

Shutter speed 1/80 is too long for such movements, it turns out blurry

Exposure 3 sec - water like milk

Diaphragm

Denoted as f22, f10, f5.6, f1.4 and means how open the lens aperture is when the shutter is released. Moreover, the smaller the number, the larger the diameter of the hole, that is, as if vice versa. It is logical that the larger this hole, the more light falls on the matrix. In automatic mode, the camera itself selects this value according to the program built into it.

The aperture also affects the depth of field (depth of field):

If you are shooting a landscape during the day, then feel free to close the aperture down to f8-f13 (no longer necessary) so that everything is sharp. In the dark, if you don’t have a tripod, you’ll have to open it and raise the ISO.
If you are shooting a portrait and want the most blurred background, you can open the aperture to maximum, but keep in mind that if your lens is fast, then f1.2-f1.8 may be too much and only the person’s nose will be in focus, and the rest of the face blurred.
There is a dependence of the depth of field on the aperture and focal length, therefore, in order for the main object to be sharp, it makes sense to use the f3-f7 values, increasing it depending on the increase in focal length.

Aperture f9 - everything is sharp

105 mm, f5.6 - the background is very blurred

ISO sensitivity

Designated ISO 100, ISO 400, ISO 1200, etc. If you shot on film, you will remember that films were sold in different speeds, which meant the film was sensitive to light. The same is true for a digital camera; you can set the sensitivity of the matrix. What this actually means is that your shot will be lighter as you increase your ISO at the same shutter speed and aperture (same exposure).

A feature of good and expensive cameras is a higher working ISO, reaching up to 12800. Now this figure doesn’t tell you anything, but it’s really cool. Because at ISO 100 you can only shoot in daylight, and at 1200 and above, even twilight is no problem. Budget DSLRs have a maximum working ISO of about 400-800. Next comes color noise. Raise your ISO to maximum and take a photo at dusk and you'll see what we're talking about. Soap dishes have very bad performance with this parameter.

ISO 12800 - noticeable noise, but it can be partially removed during processing

ISO 800 with the same settings, the photo is much darker

White balance

Surely you have seen photographs where there is too much yellow or blue? This one is precisely due to incorrect white balance. The fact is that depending on the light source (sun, incandescent light bulb, white light lamp, etc.) the color scheme of the photograph depends. Roughly speaking, imagine that we will shine a special blue lamp on a chair and then the entire photograph of this chair will be bluish. If this is a special artistic effect, then everything is fine, but if we need normal shades, then setting the white balance will save us. All cameras have presets (automatic, sun, cloudy, incandescent, manual, etc.).

To my shame, I must admit that I always shoot on automatic. It’s easier for me to correct everything in the program later than to set the white balance. Perhaps someone will consider this blasphemy, but I’m happy with everything, and I think the majority will be happy with it too, so I won’t talk about manually setting white balance.

Selecting a Focus Point

As a rule, all good cameras have the ability to select the focus point, as well as their automatic selection (when the camera itself selects objects and uses them to decide what to focus on and how). I rarely use the automatic mode, mainly when there is little time and objects are moving, for example in a crowd of people, when there is no time to think. In all other cases, I use the center point. I pressed the button, focused without releasing the button, moved it to the side, and pressed it to the end, taking the shot.

The center point is usually the most accurate, which is why it should be used. But you need to look at the specific model of the camera, for example, now on my current camera all the points are working. I also wanted to say that if your camera is slow and doesn’t focus well (twilight, backlight), then you need to look for the border between light and dark and focus on it.

Depth of field DOF

Depth of field is the range of distances at which all objects will be sharp. Let's imagine that you are photographing a person and there is a straight line: camera - person - background. The focusing point is on the person, then everything will be sharp in the range from this person to you by a certain number of meters and from this person towards the background, also by a certain number of meters. This range is the depth of field. In each specific case it will be different, because it depends on several parameters: aperture, focal length, distance to the object, and the model of your camera. There are special depth of field calculators where you can enter your values and find out what distance you will get. For landscapes, you need a large depth of field to keep everything sharp, and for portraits or highlighting objects by blurring the background, you need a shallow depth of field.

You can play around with the calculator to understand a little the relationship between these parameters. But in the field you will not have it at hand, so if you are not a professional photographer, then it will be enough to remember some values that are convenient for you, and also look at the display each time (zooming the photo closer) what you got and whether it is necessary rephoto.

First of all, you need to remember that:

— The wider the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field.
— The longer the focal length, the shallower the depth of field.
— The closer the object, the shallower the depth of field.

That is, when shooting at a close distance, for example, a person’s face at 100 mm and aperture 2.8, you risk getting only the nose sharp, while everything else will be blurred.

73mm, f5.6, shot as close as possible so only your finger is in focus

You will need to experience this “triple” dependence of depth of field on focal length, aperture and distance to the subject. For example:

When photographing landscapes or other objects at a wide angle, you can always use f8-f13 and everything will be sharp. In fact, the calculator says you can open the aperture much wider, but these are the values I like. As a rule, I always set it to f10 (during the day).
For a beautiful blurry background, you don’t need to have an expensive fast lens with a wide aperture, a regular zoom with a standard aperture is enough, you just need to move further away and zoom the person closer (for example, 100 mm) and then even f5.6 is enough for you to blur the background.
The distance from the photographed subject to the background plays a role. If they are very close, then it may not be possible to blur the background normally; you will have to use a long focal length and a very open aperture. But if the background is very far away, it will almost always turn out blurry.
If you are photographing a flower at close range, and for some reason you need to make the mountains on the horizon sharp, then you will have to clamp the aperture to the maximum to f22 or more. True, in this case there is a chance to still get a not sharp image due to other features.

Alternatively, you can just remember a couple of things. We shoot landscapes and similar plans at f10, people and highlighting objects at f2.5 (50 mm) or f5.6 (105 mm).

Relationship between shutter speed, aperture, ISO and semi-automatic modes

We have reached the most difficult part, the interconnection of all these parameters. I’ll try to explain what’s what, but you still can’t do without samples. First of all, I would like to advise you to use at the very beginning not the full manual mode (called M), but the semi-automatic ones (Av and Tv for Canon, or A and S for Nikon), because it is much easier to think about one parameter, rather than two at once .

So, I have already given some connections above. And if depth of field is quite difficult to figure out at first, then choosing shutter speed and aperture without reference to the depth of field will be easier. It all comes down to ensuring that your frame is moderately light/dark, because even if you shoot in RAW, it is not a fact that you will be able to pull out a photo with too erroneous values. And that's why I'm all for semi-automatic modes.

Aperture priority (Av or A)

Let's say you're photographing a landscape in Av mode and your focal length is 24 mm. Set it to f10, and the camera will select the shutter speed for you. And all you have to do is make sure that it is no longer than the critical value of 1/mm (I wrote about this above in the Exposure section). What to do next?

If the shutter speed is faster than 1/24, such as 1/30 or 1/50, then everything is fine.
If the shutter speed is longer than 1/24, then you will have to set more ISO.
Next, if the ISO is not enough, then you can start opening the aperture. In principle, you can initially immediately open it at f5.6-f8, and then increase the ISO.
If the maximum working ISO is already set and there is nowhere to open the aperture, then either “put your hands on your hips” to somehow reduce the shaking, or look for a surface where you can place or press the carcass, or take out a tripod. Alternatively, you can raise the ISO even higher, but then the photo will be very noisy.

Shutter priority (Tv or S)

It is better to shoot moving objects or people in TV mode to avoid blurring of the subject. Naturally, the shorter the shutter speed, the better, but if there is not much light, then you can rely on the values that I gave in the paragraph on shutter speed. That is, we set the shutter speed and control what aperture the camera will choose. It is better that it is not completely open, especially on fast lenses. If there is not enough light, then we also increase the ISO; if there is still not enough light, then we try to lengthen the shutter speed.

ISO 1600 f2.8 1/50 sec - the parameters are at the limit because it’s dark and we’re moving

Exposure compensation

Av and Tv are also convenient for this reason. Since the camera measures exposure based on the focus point, and it may be in the shadows, or, on the contrary, too lit, the aperture or shutter speed it selects may not correspond to the required ones. And the easiest way to correct them is with the help of exposure correction, just turn the wheel 1-3 steps in the desired direction and that’s it, that is, if you need to make the entire frame darker, then minus, if lighter, then plus. When there is insufficient light, I always immediately shoot at -2/3 minus in order to have more margin in the settings.

P.S. I hope the article was not too complicated and readable. There are many nuances, but it is difficult to place them here, given that I myself do not know many things. If you find a mistake, write in the comments.

For all Canon DSLR users, we have prepared a few tricks, tips and tricks that can help you master your camera better and use it more effectively. The article will be of interest to both beginners and more experienced users.

Any DSLR, regardless of model, is a finely tuned instrument that combines both well-functioning mechanical elements and high-tech electronics.

Most users use only a small part of the functionality of their cameras. Part of the reason for this is the lack of experience of novice photographers or poor knowledge of the capabilities of their DSLR, but in many cases the reason lies in something completely different - in the functionality and control features laid down by the manufacturer.

Sometimes Canon chooses not the most obvious and logical option for grouping camera functions, which makes it unclear to the user how to access them (and even the instructions do not always add clarity to this issue). So, in order to effectively use your Canon DSLR, here's what you need to know:

Select RAW as the image format

There are several image format and quality options available to the DSLR user, but for best results you should always choose RAW (uncompressed or lossless compressed). Images in this format show off a better range of tones and also give you more wiggle room when editing. The choice of this image format is almost always justified.

If you shoot in JPEG, choose the maximum quality

While you should use the RAW format in most cases, there are situations where choosing the highest quality JPEG is a compromise. For example, if you are going to shoot a continuous series of images, select JPEG at maximum quality - this will allow you to extend the camera's shooting time before its buffer fills.

Save space on your memory card if necessary

Selecting the highest quality JPEG can also come in handy if your memory card is low on space because you completely forgot to bring a spare.

Update your camera firmware promptly

Canon continues to improve the reliability and performance of its cameras, even after they leave the factory. That’s why it’s a good idea to regularly monitor the official website for the availability of an updated firmware version for your DSLR. Check in the camera menu which firmware version you are using. Then go to the official Canon website and find the “Support” section and then “Software”. In this section, you can check the relevance of the firmware used in the DSLR and, if necessary, download its update.

Try sRaw format

Many modern Canon DSLRs allow you to shoot not only in JPEG or RAW, but also in sRAW (RAW Size Small, that is, small RAW), which saves space on memory cards. But you have to remember that when shooting in sRAW, the camera uses fewer pixels, so the image file will contain less information than a regular RAW file, and you'll have to accept lower resolution or image quality.

Adjust the viewfinder diopter

We have already written about setting up the viewfinder in the article.

Adjusting the viewfinder to suit your vision will help you see the scene you're shooting in more clearly. For diopter adjustment, use the small wheel in the upper right corner of the viewfinder. Rotate it in one direction or the other to adjust the viewfinder optics.

IMPORTANT! When adjusting the viewfinder, focus on the clarity of the numbers inside the viewfinder, and not on the sharpness of the scene!

Set the Adobe RGB color space

One of the most hidden options in your DSLR menu is Color Space. By default, the color space is set to sRGB, but if you select Adobe RGB, you can capture a wider color range. This allows you to get better results when printing images.

Format/clear card before use

If you are going on a photo walk or just plan to take pictures during the day, then it is better to clear the memory card of the images on it by first copying them to the computer. Naturally, the easiest way is to delete all the images at once, rather than one at a time. To do this, you can use the “Delete All” or “Format” command. The first simply deletes all images (except for files that are protected from deletion), while the second completely deletes all information from the memory card - regardless of whether it is protected from deletion or not.

Do not make noise!

Are you annoyed by the sound of the focus confirmation beep? This option is always enabled by default in the settings of Canon DSLRs. Turn it off to avoid attracting unnecessary attention to yourself or scaring the wildlife you are about to film.

Reset

If you get too carried away with changing camera settings and want to return to factory settings, then you can use the corresponding menu item to reset all settings. After this, the camera will return to the parameters that were preset in it at the factory. Then you can start experimenting with your DSLR settings over and over again!

Make sure your photos are saved

The “Shoot without a memory card” function is very convenient for demonstrating the camera’s capabilities when purchasing it in a store, but it is extremely harmful when using the camera. Because of it, you can shoot without forgetting to install the memory card, which will lead to the loss of all the captured photos. To avoid this, find the “Shoot without a memory card” function in the menu and disable it.

Experiment with Image Styles

Canon offers many picture styles. The most useful of them is monochrome. It allows you to determine which of your captured images would be good candidates for conversion to monochrome in post-production. In this case, RAW files will contain color images (you don’t forget to shoot in RAW, right?)

Paradoxically, converting a color RAW image to monochrome in post-processing gives much better results than photos taken directly from the camera when shooting in black and white.

Use the Program Shift function

Program mode (P) is actually more useful than many users think. It automatically sets shutter speed and aperture based on lighting conditions and the lens used.

However, in Program mode, you can do more than just point and shoot—you can change the shutter speed or aperture value set by the camera. To do this in program mode, you just need to turn the wheel located next to the shutter button. This is very convenient if you want to slightly tweak the parameters that your DSLR automatically selects.

Aperture priority

Aperture priority (AV) mode is a great all-around option for creative photography. You set the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed based on the metering mode you choose. You set the aperture using the Basic Set, and the camera sets the shutter speed based on the metering mode and Exposure Compensation you set.

Aperture priority mode is also useful for selecting a specific shutter speed. It's very simple: if you want to get the maximum shutter speed, you simply rotate the main dial until you see the desired shutter speed in the viewfinder. This is a much more flexible mode than Shutter Priority, where you set the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture.

The easiest way to adjust exposure

Your DSLR has many exposure modes and ways to adjust it, but the easiest way to check your exposure, no matter what settings you're using, is to take a photo and then view it on the camera's LCD. The histogram will tell you whether the photo is underexposed or, conversely, overexposed. You can then use to make the next photo lighter or darker. To do this, you need to press the Av +/- button and then rotate the dial located behind the shutter button. Shifting towards “+” makes the image darker, towards “-” it makes it lighter.

Which Exposure Compensation Value Should I Choose?

If the scene (or subject) you are shooting is predominantly dark, the camera will overexpose the photo, so use negative exposure compensation. If the scene is mostly bright, selecting +1 or +2 exposure compensation will give you a more balanced image in terms of exposure.

Partial metering

To photograph subjects against a bright or dark background, you will have to use exposure compensation so that you don't end up with just a silhouette of your subject in the photo. You can also select an exposure metering mode that only meters brightness in the center of the frame. This mode in Canon DSLRs is partial exposure metering, and it does the job well in most situations.

18.09.2015 9160 Photography Tips 0

Whether you've just been given a brand new camera or you've given in to the urge to take better photos than your smartphone can, you'll need tips on how to set up your treasure for the first time. It is this query in search engines that often brings you, our dear readers, to our site.

So, I decided to give you some tips on this matter, 12 tips, and here you will find all the necessary information on how to properly set up your camera for a beginner.

Tip #1. Charge the battery

If your camera does not come with AA batteries, which you must purchase yourself, then the first thing you will have to do after opening the box is charge the battery.

Most cameras come with a charger, into which you need to insert the battery and then connect it to the mains. But there are also cameras that allow you to charge the battery inside the camera via a USB connection. Please carefully read the instructions for your purchase regarding this matter.

All necessary cables or charger should be in the box with the camera.

Tip #2. Format the memory card

As soon as the battery is charged, insert it into the compartment provided for it (the card must be purchased additionally, in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations - again, read the instructions). Then turn on the camera, enter the menu and find the formatting function.

Formatting prepares the card for use and removes all existing images from it. If you've used the card before, make sure you download any images you want to keep from it.

Tip #3. Image quality and size

All cameras are capable of capturing images in different and different quality. If you want to take the best possible pictures, set the image quality to the best setting. It may be called Highest JPEG, Fine JPEG, or Extra Fine JPEG.

If you are new to photography, don't shoot RAW files on their own, shoot simultaneously with the JPEG format - you will need this option when you gain some experience and can process your photo archive. Subsequently, you are better off completely switching to the RAW format.

Tip #4. White balance

Our eyes and brains are good at compensating for the different colors of light we encounter, which is why we see white objects as white.

The camera's white balance (WB) system is designed for the same purpose, and in most cases, setting it to automatic gives good results. But when shooting in JPEG format, in some situations it is not enough - in specific lighting conditions it is better to select the “fluorescent lamp” (fluorescent lamp) or “incandescent lamp” mode, depending on the lighting.

If you shoot in RAW format, then feel free to set the WB setting to Auto mode - you will set the desired light temperature during post-processing in the editor (provided that you have these skills).

Tip #5. Exposure metering

Many cameras offer three metering modes that allow you to evaluate the brightness of light and suggest appropriate exposure settings: spot, matrix and multi-zone.

A good place to start is to set it to multi-zone, which is a good choice as it takes into account brightness across the entire surface of the scene and tries to recommend exposure settings that will produce a nice, balanced shot. As you master the camera, you will begin to use all three modes depending on your shooting tasks.

Tip #6. Focusing

A modern camera offers several. In AF-S (Single) mode, the camera will focus on the subject according to the active AF points when you press the shutter button halfway. Once it focuses, the lens will hold focus for as long as you keep the button pressed. This is a good option for many situations, but if the subject is moving, the focus will not be adjusted.

Many cameras have an AF-A (Auto) option that automatically detects whether the subject is moving.

If the subject is stationary, then Single-AF is used, but if it moves, the camera activates the continuous autofocus system, that is, the focus is adjusted as needed.

If your camera has an automatic focus mode, then install it.

Tip #7. Selecting AF points

Most cameras have a setting that tells the equipment which autofocus points to use. This is a good choice if you are a beginner.

The camera tends to focus on what is closest to the center of the frame. So if your subject is not quite centered and there are other objects between it and the camera, then keep an eye on what your camera is focusing on.

If necessary, switch to single-point AF (or similar). It allows you to set the AF point using the navigation buttons.

Tip #8. Shooting mode: single shot and continuous shooting

When your camera is in single shot mode, it takes one frame each time you press the shutter button. Even if you hold your finger down.

In "continuous shooting" mode, it will continue to take photos until you release the button or until the buffer or memory card is full.

This mode is useful when shooting moving subjects, but in most cases you'll want to take one photo at a time.

Tip #9. Image stabilization

The slightest random camera movements can cause blur in your images at relatively long shutter speeds, but this can easily be corrected with the help of an image stabilization system (some cameras use , most use lens stabilization).

Stabilization works by moving the sensor or elements inside the lens to compensate for camera shake. In general, the stabilization system is very effective and allows you to use longer shutter speeds.

If you shoot handheld, then be sure to activate image stabilization, but when mounting the camera on a tripod, turn it off.

Tip #10. Color space

Many cameras offer two color spaces to choose from: . Adobe RGB has a larger color range than SRGB. Therefore, it will be the best option in most cases.

Tip #11. Picture Style or Picture Control

Most cameras can process images in a number of different ways, using Picture Style functions, Picture Control modes, color modes, or Film Simulation mode.

Typically, there are several options. One produces black and white (monochrome) images, another increases saturation to make the image brighter, "landscape" enhances blues and greens, etc.

By default, the camera uses the "standard" option, which is generally suitable for most situations, so make sure this is set to this. And you can easily get the rest of the effects in a graphic editor during subsequent processing of the frame.

Tip #12. Shooting modes

The vast majority of beginners immediately set the Auto mode after purchase (wow, such a cool camera, it will definitely do everything right for me!). And this is a mistake. You need to immediately understand and use creative modes: aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode and manual mode. On most cameras they are marked as “A”, “S”, “M” respectively. If you have a Canon camera, you will notice that it likes to be special, and the same modes on it are labeled Av, Tv, M (Av is aperture priority mode, Tv is shutter priority mode, M is manual mode).

You're probably a little intimidated to switch to creative modes, but I strongly advocate with them, and in most cases using aperture priority mode as a tool for adjusting exposure and depth of field (DOF).

That’s basically all, now you can safely go on a photo hunt for masterpieces. Although... I don’t want to call this tip “thirteenth”, I’m a little superstitious, but still, take a look at our free one.

If you have any questions, ask them on the site forum, in our photo club. All the photography to you!