Crimea Tepe Kermen. Tepe-Kermen is a cave city in Crimea. Useful information for visiting
The cave fortress in the vicinity of Bakhchisaray is a monument of medieval architecture and urban planning.
Geographic coordinates of Tepe-Kermen on the map of Crimea GPS N 44.715895 E 33.931037
Today Tepe-Kerman is open like an open air museum. Visiting in summer is paid. Ticket price for adults is 100 rubles, for children - 50 rubles. There is no telephone number for inquiries in Tepe-Kermen. Consultation can only be obtained at the entrance from the forester. During the off-season, admission is free.
How to get to the cave city of Tepe-Kermen
Getting to Tepe Kermen You can from Bakhchisarai: go to the street. Stroitelnaya, along it you move towards the exit from Bakhchisarai, to the village of Predushchelnoye, then Bashtanovka, Mashino and the final point - Kudrino. In the village of Kudrino you are looking for a tourist stop. It won't be difficult to find it along the highway. The distance from Bakhchisaray to Tepe-Kermen is 10.7 km. If you want to get there without your own transport, then a minibus runs from the city center to Kudrino and you can also get there by taxi.
From the tourist parking lot the ascent along the trail to Tepe-Kermen begins. The rise time is on average 30-40 minutes. The trail is marked and it is practically impossible to stray from it. Also, from the tourist parking lot you will be offered to climb to Tepe-Kermen by SUV. Price from 500 to 1000 rubles. depending on the time of year and vehicle load.
The second option to get to Tepe-Kermen is from Bakhchisarai on foot. From Bakhchisarai you head towards the Assumption Monastery, then go up to the Chufut-Kale fortress, cross Chufut-Kale all the way through, exit through the Eastern Gate, follow the path for about 4.5 km. and you also find yourself at a tourist parking lot and a checkpoint (a forester’s booth who collects money for entry).
History of Tepe-Kerman
History of Tepe-Kerman originates from the split of the Roman Empire, from the emergence of Byzantium. The northern border of Byzantium ran along part of the Crimean Peninsula, from the South of Crimea to the territory of the future Bakhchisarai. In the 4th-5th centuries, it was on these borders that the first guard posts began to appear, which in the 5th-6th centuries would become fortified cities: Chufut-Kale, Tepe-Kermen and Eski-Kermen.
Since the Tepe-Kermen fortress served as a guard post on the border of Byzantium, the city was formed as a fortress according to all the rules of that time. The city was located in a remote place, in our case on the mountain of the same name Tepe-Kermen. The height is 246 m or 540 above sea level. Also, not only the height of the mountain but also its inaccessibility played an important role.
It has a rather steep slope on three sides, which is not easy to climb. It is quite difficult to carry out military maneuvers or a siege. It is for these reasons that a small outpost becomes a fortress by the 6th century, and later, from the 11th to the 13th centuries, it turns into a large city, by the standards of that time.
Cave city Tepe-Kermen located on the plateau of the mountain of the same name. The area of the plateau is 1.1 hectares. The city is built in several tiers. At the very foot of the mountain, small caves begin, which were previously connected with wooden structures to the middle of the mountain. In the middle part of the mountain, all the caves were adapted for the defense of the city. They housed archers and other city defenders. The lower part served mainly. for a subsidiary farm - premises for livestock and for stocking feed. But the upper plateau was intended for living quarters, small cells for monks and directly for temples. So, for example, in the North-East of the plateau there is the largest Christian temple of the 7-9 centuries AD. According to archaeologists, the temple was founded by fugitive preachers from the Roman Empire during the time of iconoclasm in Rome. Unfortunately, more accurate information about the temple has not been preserved, as well as the name of this city.
The name Tepe-Kermen appeared in the 16th century and is translated from Turkic as Fortress on the Top, but historians do not yet know what this place was called during Byzantine times.
On the territory of Tepe-Kermen, according to today, there are about 246 buildings. But this figure is very figurative, due to the fact that this area, although known since ancient times, is still little studied. The approximate date of the disappearance of the city is known - 1299, during the raid of the Golden Horde. But this is not confirmed by historical facts and has no historical justification.
So, for example, the German archaeologist Johann Erich Thunmann writes that at the turn of the 16th century life in Tepe-Kermen was practically. quieted down. That is, it turns out that 300 years of the city’s history are simply not known.
Excursions to Tepe-Kermen.
When thinking about whether it is worth visiting Tepe-Kermen with a guide or on your own, you can answer this way: it depends on what you expect from a trip to the fortress. If you want to take good pictures and walk around, then most likely you shouldn’t take a tour. You won’t lose your way off the trail, all attractions are signed and have a brief history on boards near significant places, and most importantly, your cost will be at least 100 rubles. for entry. If you want -1000 rub. for the ascent in an SUV. But you will not be limited by time for photos and a walk. 
But if you decide to choose the option with a guide, you will get a fairly high-quality excursion into history, starting from Byzantium to the kingdom of Theodore and the devastation of these lands during the time of the Golden Horde. The excursion lasts on average 1-2 hours, and the amount of information will be very extensive, and in most cases visual. In general, the choice is yours.
Tepe-Kerman on the map of CrimeaThe ancient settlement of Tepe-Kermen (Fortress on the Mountain) is located in the valley of the Kachi River, 7 km southeast of Bakhchisaray. The settlement is located on a separate outcropping with an area of 1 hectare, at an altitude of 544 m above sea level. Above the Kachin Valley the plateau rises 225 m, with marl screes running down into it, and the height of the vertical cliffs is 10-12 m. The ascent to the plateau is only from the north-eastern side.
How to get there
The Tepe-Kermen settlement belongs to the Kachin group of “cave cities”. Tepe-Kermen is located in the Kachin Valley, about 5 km from Bakhchisaray.
From Simferopol
If you start your journey in Simferopol, then first you need to get to Bakhchisarai by bus or by train Simferopol-Sevastopol.
From Sevastopol
If you start your trip in Sevastopol, then you also need to first get to Bakhchisarai by bus or by train Sevastopol-Simferopol.
Next, you need to take a shuttle bus from the railway station to the final stop "Staroselye". And you need to get to Chufut-Kale on foot (see How to get to Chufut-Kale). Next, you need to go to the eastern outskirts of the Chufut-Kale settlement, through the Biyuk-Kapu gate (Eastern Gate). Beyond this gate you will immediately see a dirt road heading east. It is necessary to follow it. After traveling less than 1.5 km from the dirt road, a path will branch off to the left (in front of this path you should see a sign in the form of stones laid out in the shape of an arrow and the word TEPE-KERMEN). You should continue your journey along this path. It descends from the Chufut-Kale plateau into a gully. After walking about 1 km along a forest ravine along the Chufut-Kale plateau, you will find yourself in a pine forest. A little to the left is the equipped tourist parking lot "Sarabey". Here, if desired, you can spend the night.
Immediately behind the parking lot rises the Tepe-Kermen plateau in the form of a truncated cone. You are standing on the northeast side of the palto.
Coming out of the pine forest, you will see a path to the plateau. It is quite steep and, having overcome the last extreme sections, you find yourself in front of the eastern caves. Next you need to move to the right and up. The path will lead to the remains of a staircase carved into the rock with very clear steps. You need to climb up them to the plateau.
There is also another option:
You need to take the Bakhchisaray-Sinapnoye bus from the bus station in Bakhchisaray. The road passes through the picturesque Kachin Valley. First, behind the village of Preduschelnoye, you will pass the site of an ancient man - the Kachinsky canopy, then the Tash-Air canopy, famous for its rock paintings. This will be followed by the Kachi-Kalyon limestone massif in the form of the bow of a giant ship, heading downstream of the Kachi River. On its side, like portholes, gape rows of caves carved by human hands. On the bow of the “ship” a huge cross formed as a result of natural phenomena is clearly visible. Passing the Kachi-Kalyon monastery, a mountain range appears before your eyes, like a huge impregnable wall. This is Mount Kyz-Kermen (Maiden Fortress). The settlement of the same name is located on the Kyz-Kermen plateau. Immediately behind Kyz-Kermen you will see a remnant mountain in the form of a truncated cone - this is the goal of our journey - Tepe-Kermen. You need to get off at the Kudrino stop. After passing the field, you will find yourself in a pine forest, where the t/s "Sarabey" is located. Further behind a small clearing there is a path to the plateau. It is necessary to climb along it.
Site plan. Attractions
Tepe-Kermen - churches of the ancient settlement
A special feature of Tepe-kermen is the largest concentration of caves compared to other cave cities. There are more than 250 of them on an area of about 1 hectare.
The overwhelming number of in-rock structures here (about 85%) were used for economic needs. Of these, about 88%, or 170-180 premises, were barns for animals. The rest of the utility rooms consisted of estate basements and water storage tanks. Non-economic caves were used for housing and burial.
Among the Tepe-kermen caves, two churches are of particular interest. One, a “church with a sacristy” (these names of cave churches were introduced into scientific circulation by N. Borovko (1913), is located in the northwestern cliff of the settlement. You can get into it without climbing the plateau. The second, a “church with a baptistery,” is located on the very plateau, on its northeastern edge.
The close proximity of Tepe-kermen to Bakhchisaray and the abundance of artificial caves have been around since the beginning of the 19th century. made it one of the most popular places to visit. Let us note the most interesting reports about the churches of the settlement found in the literature.
P. Sumarokov at the beginning of the 19th century. compiled the first small description of the “church with a baptistery” and published its visual plan.
Brief information about the church is found in the “Crimean Collection” by P. Keppen. The scientist’s remark is interesting: “What kind of work was it worth to destroy this house of God? What patience should have been possessed by those who, leaving this monument behind, were plunged into the darkness of oblivion.”
He left us a description and drawings of the church of Dubois de Montpere. V. Kondaraki mentions it.
Detailed information and drawings of the church were published by G. Karaulov. The author dated it to the first centuries of Christianity. In Karaulov’s review, the following points are noteworthy: a) he saw the fragments of collapsed columns from the altar; b) found no traces of wall painting. Descriptions and plans of the church can also be found in the works of D. Strukov, A. Popov, E. Markov.
In 1890 a resident of Bakhchisarai, I. Puzatov, cleared the temple of debris, made windows and doors in it, invited a priest and served a prayer service. He noticed an inscription covered with lime on the wall opposite the entrance, copied it and handed it over to the Odessa Society for the History of Antiquities. V. Latyshev published the following translation: “This grave was dug up at my own request by Polyt.... The expansion (made) by the servant of God, the most pious Manuel...”. It was not possible to completely restore the text; no exact copy was made, so the scientist did not consider it possible to date it.
V. Yurgevich and A. Popandopulo-Keramevs, based on the same copy, according to paleographic data, nevertheless tried to establish the chronology of the inscription, but their opinions differed: the first considered it to be later, and the second considered it possible to attribute it to the 9th-10th centuries.
The first detailed and complete description of all the cave churches of the settlement was made by N. Borovko in the article “Tepe-kermen” (1913). He collected all the information he knew, made precise measurements, and copied the Greek inscription in the apse of the “church with a sacristy.”
In 1927, a brief overview of the cave churches of Tepe-kermen was compiled by I. Nikolsky. Referring to the “church with the baptistery,” he reported: “To the right of the altar, under the mortar, one can discern the outlines of Christ carved directly on the wall.” This seems strange, since neither the earlier nor the later works mention this. Most likely, the “image of Christ” is nothing more than a figment of N. Nikolsky’s imagination. Detailed information about the monuments in question can be found in the unpublished “Archaeological Map...” by N. Repnikov.
Referring to the aforementioned dating of the inscription proposed by Popandopoulo-Keramevs, he noted: “Such an early dating, based on the general character of the cave temple, seems incredible to us.”
In 1940 The churches of Tepe-kermen were examined by P. Babenchikov. The following conclusion seems interesting: “... In the old days, the entire eastern part of the cave (the church with the baptistery - Yu. M.) up to the altar was isolated from the temple, which fits with analogies in other cave temples... A further conclusion from this premise will assume that the orientation of the altar should be considered not to the north, as has been done until now, but to the east. The latter assumption, among other data, is supported by the fact that of the two entrances to the altar, the western one has a width of 0.68 m. and the southern one (considered until now to be the royal gates) is only 0.5 m. I think that the researchers were misled by the accidental good preservation of the altar barrier with crosses in the southern wall of the altar and its complete destruction in the western. The existence of a large and. a correctly quadrangular cut-out in the eastern wall, which is considered a “seat,” but which should be considered a subsequently converted throne.”
An interesting observation by P. Babenchikov regarding the analogy with the “temple with a baptismal chapel” in Inkerman: with all the architectural differences between these churches, the researcher drew attention to an important similarity - the location of baptisteries in the churches, which in ancient times were separated from the churches by a partition, and baptismal chapels with a step.
A. Jacobson devoted relatively much space to the “church with a baptistery” in his works, dating it to the 8th-9th centuries, practically without giving any arguments, with the exception of the transverse location of the nave. In addition to the above works, the cave churches of Tepe-kermen were repeatedly mentioned in the literature, but mostly they repeated the already known conclusions of N. Borovko and A. Yakobson.
To summarize, it can be noted that the underground temples of Tepe-kermen, despite their fame and popularity, have been poorly studied. With the exception of descriptions, no architectural analysis was made, and no serious arguments were given in favor of one or another dating.
Probably originally in the 11th-12th centuries. The “church with the baptistery”, located on the plateau, inside the fortress walls, was cut down, and the rest appeared later, as the settlement grew.
Obviously, after the end of life on Tepe-kermen at the end of the 13th-14th centuries. The cave churches continue to be used to some extent by residents of neighboring valleys and individual hermits. This is supported by the tombstone inscription of monk Nicholas, found here and dated by V. Latyshev in the 16th century. However, it is not possible to talk about the full life of these churches at this time.
Yu.M.Mogarichev
Tepe-Kermen - "Church with sacristy"
The “Church with the Sacristy” has dimensions of 4.9 x 2.2 x 2.1 m. In plan, it is a simple single-apse church. The apse is horseshoe-shaped, 1.85 x 1 x 2 m, in the upper part it is separated from the pump by a girth arch. Below you can see undercuts for the installation of the altar barrier and, probably, a later iconostasis. There is a square cut in the floor for the base of the throne. Niches were carved into the northern and southern walls of the apse - possibly an altar and a deacon. A four-line Greek inscription is carved into the apse conch.
The naos is rectangular, along the western and southern walls, at a height of 0.43 m, there is a bench. In the southern wall (western half) there is a grave 2.75 x 0.8 x 0.72 m. Above it, at a height of 1.5 m, is an arched niche measuring 0.37 x 0.35 x 0.2 m. In the eastern part of the southern wall, a passage was cut into the sacristy, rounded in plan, measuring 2.1 x 2.3 x 1.7 m.
In the northern wall to the west of the entrance, at a height of 0.85 m, there is an arched niche (0.17 x 0.3 x 0.2 m). To the east of the entrance is another one, measuring 0.24 x 0.53 x 0.5 m, built at a height of 0.9 m. Next to it, two concentric circles are carved, inside of which four knitting needles are depicted in a cross shape. In the lower half of the circle four letters of the Hebrew alphabet are visible (preserved), which A. Gidalevich interpreted as the surname “Bakshi”.
Two graves with shoulders were cut into the floor of the church, measuring 2 x 0.57 x 0.5 m for the north and 2.1 x 0.8 x 0.5 m for the south.
Room treatment - smoothed T.2. The entrance to the church is rectangular (1.36 x 1.58 m). On its sides there are visible hems for fastening the doors.
In the architectural plan of a “church with a sacristy” it is difficult to find direct analogies among cave temples. The presence of recesses in the western part of the apse (northern and southern walls) brings it closer to the temple of the Southern Mangup Monastery and the main church of Shuldan, the sacristy - to the small temple in the area of the Eski-kermen lift road. In terms of interior design, the “church with a sacristy” looks newer compared to the “church with a baptistery”.
It is quite possible that it appeared at the last stage of Tepe-kermen’s life as a roadside church located at the entrance to the site. Let us note that it was under it that the road leading to the Tepe-kermen plateau passed.
Yu.M.Mogarichev
Tepe-Kermen - "Church with a baptistery"
"Church with a baptistery" (N 1). The plan is trapezoidal in shape, dimensions 10.5 x 4.5 x 2.6 m, the ceiling is slightly sloping towards the western wall. Functionally, the room is divided into two parts - the church itself and the baptismal sanctuary.
The temple, measuring 6.4 x 4.5 m, is located in the western part. Its altar, brought inside the room, occupies the north-eastern corner and is a square room 2.7 x 2.7 m fenced off with an altar barrier carved into the rock. It is raised 0.3 m above the pump. There are two entrances to it - the royal ones the gate (south) is 0.5 m wide and the side (west) is 0.7 m.
The slabs of the altar barrier from the side of the royal doors are 0.25 m thick, the height of the royal doors.
Rectangular naos. A bench 0.25 m wide and 0.35 m high was cut along the western, southern and partially northern walls. In the western wall there was a tomb 2 x 0.65 m, and two more, 1.75 x 0.65 m (eastern) and 1.9 x 0.75 (west), cut into the bench of the south wall. Above the western grave of the southern wall the mentioned eight-line inscription is scratched. Another grave is cut into the floor south of the altar. The entrance to the church, 0.8 m wide, led from the north and was located in the northwestern corner.
The baptismal chapel, measuring 4 x 4.2 m, rectangular in shape, is located in the eastern part of the room and rises 0.15 m above the pump. The cruciform font (1.25 x 0.9 x 0.8 m) is carved in the south-east half. It rises 0.35 m above the floor. There is a descent into the font of two steps, the first is 0.3 m deep, the second is 0.2 m. To the west of the font, a grave is carved into the floor, and another one is in the north-western corner , next to the wall of the altar. Along the southern wall there is a bench, above which there is a niche-tomb in the wall. Next to the baptistery in the wall there is a quadrangular recess 1.2 x 1 x 0.55 m. On the sides of the baptistery there are two niches 0.25 x 0.3 m, above one there is a carved monogram. A partially destroyed entrance 1 m wide led into the room from the north. To the south of it, another niche 1.4 x 0.9 m was built in the western wall.
To the north of the church, on the edge of the plateau, 9 tombs and 5 tombs were carved into the rock. There were probably more graves, but the area in front of the church entrance is partially covered with earth.
The "Church with the Baptistry" is a unique monument. Firstly, it has a transverse arrangement of the nave, secondly, an altar placed inside, thirdly, a baptistery, and, finally, fourthly, churches with such an architectural design are no longer known among the rocky religious buildings of Crimea.
The closest analogy to this monument is the Judgment complex (before expansion). Similar features appear: an altar brought inside, the presence of a high place, the location of the altar in the right corner farthest from the entrance. a baptismal chamber separated from the rest of the room by the wall of the altar barrier. The latter explains the architectural design of the altar.
The Tepe-Kermen church also has something in common with the “temple with baptism” in Inkerman, namely: the presence of baptisteries with steps.
Dating. There are no direct chronological signs that allow us to unambiguously date the church. The inscription above the grave on the south wall also does not contain a date.
Dating of A. Jacobson VIII-IX centuries. on the basis of the transverse position of the nave does not stand up to criticism. As noted, on Eski-Kermen, temples with such an architectural design date back no earlier than the end of the 10th century; similar structures among the cave churches of Cappadocia existed in the 10th-11th centuries. It would seem that the dating element could be the shapes of the crosses on the altar barrier, which look archaic; there are analogies for them on the early medieval altar barriers of Kherson. However, the same crosses are on the sarcophagus of the 11th century, on the ciborium depicted in the miniatures of the codex of conversations of the monk Jacob of the 11th century. and other later monuments.
Decor similar to the ornament on the capitals of the “church with baptistery” is found on the capitals of the Church of Halas Monastery in Cappadocia, which dates back to the 11th century.
Therefore, the entire complex of architectural features of the church allows us to date it no earlier than the 11th century.
An analysis of the archaeological situation at Tepe-kermen may be important in dating this monument. This is one of the most poorly studied "cave cities". Archaeological research here was carried out only by D. Talis in 1969-1972, who found out that the settlement existed from the 6th to the end of the 13th-14th centuries. However, “the entire cultural layer in the studied areas is divided into two chronologically different layers dating back to the time after the 10th century,” and dense buildings appeared only in the 12th-13th centuries.
This archaeological situation is a reflection of the historical processes that took place in the medieval mountainous Taurica.
Tepe-kermen appears, obviously, at the end of the 6th-7th centuries. like a fortress built on the border of the Byzantine possessions in Taurica. Probably, the construction of defensive walls took place at the same chronological stage with the construction of defenses at Eski-Kermen, Mangup and Chufut-Kale. Obviously, in the early Middle Ages, people lived on Tepe-kermen mainly during the enemy’s penetration into the mountainous South-Western Crimea. Period VIII-IX centuries. was not reflected in the archaeological material of the settlement. It is known that at this time life was concentrated in rural settlements located in the valleys. In the 10th century these settlements are dying.
From the 11th century the situation is changing. The weakening and death of the Khazar Kaganate, the entry of Taurica again into the sphere of influence of Byzantium, the development of feudalization processes lead to the formation of urban centers. Probably one of them was Tepe-kermen.
One must think that it was from the 11th century. Cave churches begin to be built in the settlement. In addition to them, one above-ground temple is known here - a single-nave chapel with a semicircular apse, dimensions 5.5 x 2.2 m, dated by D. Talis from the 11th to the 13th centuries. Based on the massiveness of the walls, the scientist considered it part of some large complex, perhaps a large estate.
There is no doubt that the construction of a “church with a baptistery,” currently the largest religious building known here, was associated with the beginning of the development of the settlement, since only this can explain the presence of a baptistery and the abundance of funeral structures in the church and its surroundings. The latter also indicates the relatively long functioning of the temple.
Perhaps it was the “church with the baptistery” that was the main religious building of Tepe-kermen.
Thus, all the arguments - architectural features, analysis of the archaeological situation - allow us to attribute the appearance of the church to the 11th-12th centuries.
Yu.M.Mogarichev
Tepe Kerman - other churches
“Church with sacristy”, “church with baptistery” - the most famous rock religious buildings of the settlement. However, in our opinion, there could have been other in-rock temples at the site. In historiography, attempts have been made to highlight them.
One church on the southwestern cliff was found by N. Borovko, however, in the course of reflection, he abandoned this idea. Some cave churches are mentioned in the guide to Crimea by M. Sosnogorova.
In our opinion, the complex located to the east of the “church with the sacristy” is a cult complex. Currently, these premises are almost or completely destroyed; in particular, only the southern and western walls have been preserved. In the south wall are two rectangular niches, one of which shows traces of a poorly preserved Greek inscription. There are four graves carved into the floor. In the south wall there is an entrance to a small room, possibly a sacristy, with the treatment T.2.
It is quite possible that this church was the predecessor of the “church with a sacristy”, and for some time it could have formed a cult-funeral complex with it at the entrance to the Tepe-kermen plateau.
Yu.M.Mogarichev
Neighborhood
In the village of Kudrino there is an architectural monument - the remains of the Archangel Church, 1328.
Tepe Kermen is located at an altitude of 540 m above sea level and rises 250 m above the surrounding valleys. From the settlement you can admire the picturesque landscapes of the Kacha River valley and the domes of the Crimean Observatory visible in the distance, and only a deep ravine separates this cave city from the nearby Kyz-Kermen rock. Local residents have a curious legend about the destroyed connection between these two rock castles. Once upon a time, their owners decided to become related, but either the bride or the groom turned out to be so stubborn that they did not dare take the first step and come to the neighboring fortress. Especially for the meeting, they came up with the idea of building a bridge between the castles, which hung over the ravine. But the girl, remembering past grievances, killed her groom, then threw herself into the abyss, and the bridge was torn apart. Thus, according to Crimean legends, the relationship between these two cave cities was destroyed.
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| Views from Tepe Kerman | |
The western and northwestern slopes of Tepe-Kermen are overgrown with forests. In the southwest, the mountain is completely inaccessible due to cliffs, the height of which in some places reaches 12 m. Only in the northeastern part is there a single path to climb to this cave city, the name of which translates as “fortress mountain”, which is already fully justified at the first glance at this inaccessible rock.
Tepe-Kermen is a real “dead” city, the existence of which has no historical mentions and whose former name has been erased over the centuries. History has not preserved other names for this cave settlement, but like other Crimean cave fortress cities, Tepe-Kermen arose around the 6th century as a fortification on the border with Byzantine lands. In the 10th-11th centuries, the city expanded, became more populated, and above-ground temples appeared here, of which time has left almost no traces. Archaeologists believe that the heyday of this cave city occurred in the 11th-14th centuries, when it was a major center of cultural and economic activity in the Kacha River valley. Due to the constant invasion of the Tatars, by the end of the 14th century, life in the city gradually faded away, and Tepe-Kermen turned into another silent witness of times that had sunk into oblivion. True, after the destruction of the city, a small cave monastery existed here for some time (until the 16th century).
The total area of Tepe-Kermen is relatively small and does not exceed 1 hectare. However, there are many artificial caves concentrated in such an area. There are at least 250 of them on Tepe-Kermen, all different in size, shape and purpose. Some caves were used for household needs, while others housed religious buildings, including burial complexes. Many of the caves on Tepe-Kermen are multi-tiered (reach up to 6 tiers), and in some places they form entire complexes of 2-3-4 underground rooms. The upper tiers of the caves can only be accessed from the plateau. The lower tiers of caves most often became corrals for keeping livestock. There are about 200 of them here, which inclines researchers to believe that this was a city of cattle breeders.
In the caves of the western part of the city there were mainly casemates and loopholes to repel enemy attacks.
On Tepe-Kermen there are also small cave monastery complexes.
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Many caves surprise with stunning acoustics and exotic architectural decorations. Many of them, like ordinary rooms, were closed with wooden doors and retained traces of partitions that divided one underground room into several internal rooms. Most of these artificial structures are carved on the steep sides of the cliff. Many of them are connected by stairs carved into the same rocks, which can be seen even if you are at the foot of Tepe-Kermen. These caves offer picturesque views of the valley.
On the plateau itself, the caves are more like basements, which were hidden by entrance hatches. Some of them served as original tanks for collecting rainwater, which, most likely, was the only source of life-giving moisture in this city.
It is known that residential buildings here, as in similar fortified cities, were two-story, and their roofs were covered with red tiles.
Among the most famous sacred buildings of Tepe-Kermen is a church located in a cave on the northeastern edge of the plateau with an unusual preserved altar dating back to approximately the 8th-9th centuries. The temple is small and does not extend along the axis, in the direction of the altar, but in the north-south direction. This is customary not among Christians, but among Karaites, which is another mystery of Tepe-Kermen, because no traces of the habitation of this people have been found here. The altar was surrounded by 6 (only three survived) columns arranged in a semicircle. Crosses are carved into the walls, and in the south-eastern part you can see traces of tombs carved into the floor, above which are visible the remains of wall inscriptions in Greek. This cave temple also has its own special secret, which the guides will certainly tell you about. There is a kind of window in the cave, the secret of which is that on Easter days the sun's rays entering through it into the temple reveal the outline of a cross on the opposite wall.
In addition, there are several more cave temples on Tepe-Kermen. Among the caves of the lower tier there is another famous cave church. It preserves the sacristy and an inscription containing several letters of the Hebrew alphabet. There were also above-ground churches, among which the ruins on the southern outskirts of the city are of greatest interest. This small chapel is made of massive stone blocks. Archaeologists believe that it once belonged to a single large-scale temple complex.
Due to the small area of the settlement, no grandiose work was carried out to study it, and therefore Tepe-Kermen still retained many secrets. It is almost impossible to unambiguously determine the type of this settlement. It can be argued that one of the main occupations of the inhabitants of this cave city was cattle breeding, but it is difficult to say what Tepe-Kermen actually was. Whether there was a real cave monastery here (as evidenced by the presence of many temples), whether there was a defensive fortress (no traces of defensive structures were ever found) or simply a majestic feudal castle - it cannot be said with certainty. There is even an assumption that a large necropolis was located on Tepe-Kermen, which is confirmed by the abundance of crypts with remains found.
One of the interesting sights of Tepe-Kermen is the Sun Stone, which resembles a menhir in the shape of a sundial, but is actually the vault of a collapsed cave. It is located directly above the chasm in the southwestern part of the plateau. Esotericists believe that it contains all the energy power of this cave city of Crimea, and legends say that it contains the soul of the great sorcerer of antiquity.
This cave city of Crimea is located 7 km from Bakhchisarai. Excursions around Crimea, including a visit to the Kachi-Kalyon cave monastery, often offer a visit to Tepe-Kermen, located in the Kachin Valley.
You can make an equally fascinating journey to this cave city from Chufut-Kale, following the path past the ancient Karaite cemetery and through the forest to the remnant mountain on which Tepe-Kermen is located.
You can also get there by bus Bakhchisaray-Sinapnoye, the route of which passes by the Kachinsky canopy, which served as a parking lot for ancient people, then past the majestic rock with the cave monastery of Kachi-Kalyon, and past the Maiden Fortress - Kyz-Kermen, immediately behind which you can already see outlines of Tepe-Kerman. You need to get off at the Kudrino stop. Behind the pine forest there is a tourist parking lot, and from it a path leads to the plateau.
See photos of the cave city of Tepe-Kermen in our gallery
The page materials are based on the author's article by Skywriter13
Greetings, friends!
Everyone who goes to Tepe-Kerman pursues their own interest. Some people are attracted by antiquities and history, others decide to play hide and seek here 6-tier caves , risking falling into the abyss or stumbling upon treasure.
Well, someone wants to be convinced of the existence of Crimean miracles and see with their own eyes whether a targeted sunbeam on Easter really illuminates the decoration of the church with “God’s flame.”
In any case, this walk through another cave city of Crimea will add good emotions and cool photographs to your collection.
But first, a few facts for the general picture, so that you know what kind of place this is, how to get there and what you should pay attention to.
Tepe-Kermen is both the name of a remnant mountain and a cave fortress city in the Bakhchisarai region, which covers the top of the massif in several tiers.
By the way, in translation Tepe-Kermen means hill-fortress. And it rises almost 550 m above sea level, while occupying an area of 1 hectare.
According to scientists, Tepe-Kermen most likely served as a fortress shelter for some period, and later turned into a city with many cave rooms, temples, and above-ground buildings. And, if the date of its foundation is considered to be the 6th century, and the end of its existence is the 14th century, then its best times fell on the 12th – 13th centuries.
The city was deserted as a result of the devastation and raids of the Golden Horde led by Khan Nogai . True, there is evidence that a monastery was founded here later. The researchers also suggest that Karaites from Chufut-Kale they used these places for pasture, after life had died down here.
Where is
Tepe-Kermen is located 7 km from Bakhchisarai. Nearest town – Kudrino.
It is adjacent to another cave city - Kyz-Kermen, and below lies the green Kachin Valley.
Life is like an anthill
As with the neighboring settlement, Tepe-Kermen has not been explored much, and the chronicles say practically nothing about it. However, what remains of it suggests that life here was in earnest, albeit without any mountain springs or springs.
The massif with steep slopes and cliffs on three sides was very convenient for shelter from the enemy. And although practically no defensive walls have been found in our time, it is possible that they were located on the only flat side.
And the “development” of the plateau began closer to the 11th-12th centuries. At this time, many cave rooms were created, most of which were used for domestic and economic needs. Judging by their number, the people living here were very active.
Living quarters were built on the ground, as evidenced by the remains of the foundation in different places on the plateau. These were estates, chapels, and even temples.
The question remains: how did people live here without water? More precisely, there are containers and gutters for collecting rain and melt water on the plateau, but without a source of clean running water it would certainly have been bad.
What can you see on the plateau
It is believed that not all of the cave rooms of this city have yet been explored, and excavations may provide more information and new discoveries. But for now, you can independently explore the upper tier, where the labyrinths of caves are located, and the lower one, the premises of which were used for driving livestock. The remaining caves are located in cliffs.
There are stone “apartments” with one or more rooms. Connected to each other, they can have an adjacent or tiered structure. Just imagine this hellish work – create a more or less comfortable room in stone with niches, windows, steps, and some kind of reservoirs.
Some of the caves served as casemates. I wonder who the local people kept as prisoners here and why, and what kind of morals were present here?
There was also a necropolis here. However, the researchers did not have time to find out anything, since the tombs had long been plundered. And, if you visit most of the caves at random, not knowing what this “cozy” room is reserved for, then the two rooms cannot be confused with anything - there were temples here!
Of the surviving ones, only two churches stand out, and even those are damaged. One of them is located in the lower part of the plateau, the other is on the northeastern edge of the upper plateau.
Church with sacristy
Ascending along the north-eastern path, you can visit a cave church with a sacristy. This is a small dilapidated temple with an altar, columns, an altar and two tombs. By the way, the first explorers of this church found many human bones in the cave. There was probably a burial ground here.
This church contains carved inscriptions* in Hebrew and Greek. And on Easter, according to legend, a ray of sunlight, breaking through the window opening, creates the image of a cross.
*Inscriptions deciphered (read) by scientists: “On the repose of: Anna. About Simon. About the Repose: Sophia", "Renovated Temple", "Bakshi" or "Nakhamu".
Church with baptistery
The temple is located on a plateau in the northeastern part. The room has the shape of a trapezoid and is divided into two parts. In the western part of the temple you will see the altar, tombs, niches and carved benches. There are also inscriptions in Greek.
In the eastern part of the temple there is a baptistery, as expected, with a cruciform font. There is also a tomb, carved niches and benches. A monogram has been preserved on one niche.
These churches date back to the 12th-14th centuries, but not earlier than the 11th century.
You can't do without mysticism!
And in this cave city there is a place of Power recognized by esotericists. This so-called is the only surviving fragment from a destroyed cave at the very edge of the plateau.
The sun stone stands alone right above the cliff. At the base you can see hollowed out round-shaped containers of very small sizes.
The legend of Tepe-Kermen speaks of the soul of a sorcerer immured in this stone. And esotericists believe that this is where the center of energy of this cave city is located.
Visitor reviews
On the scale of impressions, a visit to Tepe-Kermen is compared with, which is considered the second most popular after.
If you want the opinion of those who have already been here, here are just a few of them:
“This is the most unforgettable journey from my trip to Crimea!”, “An amazing walk! The views from the plateau are amazing!”, “Why didn’t we go here earlier, we almost missed such a wonderful place!”
These are statements from numerous reviews from vacationers.
True, there was one review from a young lady in which she appealed to the authorities of the peninsula, since the road there is long and not too easy, it would not hurt to put up benches and stalls with refreshments. And the ruin of the cave city did not impress the traveler, - “Everything around is somehow dusty.”
So, friends, you shouldn’t count on an easy walk in sandals. Yes, and you will have to carry a backpack with a supply of water. And the climb can take from half an hour to an hour and a half, depending on weather conditions and your physical fitness, but more on that below.
How to get there
If you go on your own, then first you need to get to Bakhchisarai. From the Bakhchisarai bus station there is a bus route to village of Sinapnoye . Your stop is village of Kudrino , from where you need to walk across the field to the sign, and then along the road.
By car, your route will go from Bakhchisarai towards Sinapny, along the Kachin Valley. After the village of Mashino, turn left, and if you are lucky with the weather, you will get along the dirt road as close as possible to the foot of the plateau.
Coordinates for the car: 44°42′55″N (44.715294), 33°55′53″E (33.931311) .
How to get to the plateau?
As you approach the mountain range along a dirt road, you will realize that the slopes are very steep. Therefore, it is worth going further along the path and going around the plateau on the right side. There you will already see a flatter slope with a well-trodden path, which is relatively easier to climb, although in some places you will have to resort to the help of nearby bushes or grab onto tree branches.
If you don’t want to travel alone and somehow diversify your trip, here are several different types of activities:
- Hiking trip for 5 days Cave cities of Crimea. All inclusive: transfer from Simferopol, life in a tent, 3 meals a day and exercise on your strong legs.
- One day walk
Opening hours and cost of the excursion
On the website of the Bakhchisarai Historical, Cultural and Archaeological Museum-Reserve handvorec.ru, which includes all the cave cities of this area, there is information about the mode and cost of visiting, as well as excursion services.
In theory, to get to Tepe-Kermen, you need to purchase a ticket at the ticket office or book a guided tour.
According to the opening hours, Tepe-Kermen is open to the public from 9.00 to 16.00.
Cost of visiting in 2018:
- adult ticket – 100 rubles;
- children's ticket/students under 18 years old – 50 rubles;
- pensioners – 50 rubles;
- excursion services - from 100 rubles.
We have already read somewhere that these extortions seem to be illegal, because there are no proper services at the excursion site. But on the other hand, this is still a nature reserve. Although, Arina Novoseltseva – the head of the Ministry of the Republic of Kazakhstan assures that she did not approve such a document and promised to look into it.
Good to know
After bad weather or during off-season slush, travel along the road to the plateau itself practically impossible . The same can be said about walking up the mountain. If there is no other day, then try to take with you trekking poles .
You'll still get into trouble, but at least you'll be more stable.
Don't forget water, a Panama hat, comfortable shoes, a map,
The cave city of Tepe-Kermen in Crimea is perhaps a very significant and remarkable object of this kind on the territory of the peninsula in general and in the vicinity of the ancient khan’s capital in particular. Among other such complexes located in the Bakhchisarai region, it may not be the most visited, but it takes pride of place due to the picturesque view of the rock where its premises are carved, and the stunningly beautiful area of the Kachin Valley.
Archaeologists who conducted research within the boundaries of the ancient settlement tend to consider it the main point of these places, comparing it with a kind of capital of the Alans and other peoples who lived here, subordinated and recognized the authority of local rulers. Unfortunately, the history of the landmark is not well known, but excavations on its territory and the clearing of numerous structures continue. We can say that in the near future all the mysteries of this amazing place will be revealed!
Where is the ancient settlement located in Crimea?
The cave city of Tepe-Kermen is located in the southern part of the peninsula, on the territory of the Bakhchisarai region. It is located within a charmingly beautiful valley, near the village of Kudrino, 7 km southeast. On the way to the monument, tourists pass the amazing Kachi-Kalyon monastery.
Tepe-Kerman on the map of Crimea
The history of the city in caves
Historians and archaeologists attribute the appearance of Tepe-Kermen to approximately the same time as the emergence of another famous cave city - that is, to the end of the 6th - beginning of the 7th centuries. Its construction was associated with the rapid advance of the Byzantines into Northern Taurida. In the first centuries of its existence, it was primarily a fortress, where a large, strong garrison of Goth-Alans was located.
Somewhat later, a large number of residential premises and religious buildings were carved here, and the inhabitants surrounded the settlement itself in a lonely mountain overlooking the Kachin Valley with a fortress wall. But this happened no earlier than the 10th century after most of the agricultural settlements in the area fell under the blows of the presumably Khazars, who included Tepe-Kermen in the Kaganate.
Like other archaeological sites, Tepe-Kermen reached its highest development and power during the Khazar Khaganate, although the majority of its population were Christians. In the 11th century, after the fall of the Khazar state in Crimea and the establishment of Byzantine rule, the rise of the cave center continued, and by the end of the century it became one of the most densely populated on the peninsula.
But the city's prosperity was short-lived. Already in the 13th century, it, like most cave and land settlements, was captured and destroyed by the troops of the Horde Khan Nogai. After this, the complex fell into complete disrepair, over the next decades it was gradually abandoned by the majority of residents, and by the end of the 14th century it was abandoned and was never revived.
For some time, Christian churches continued to function in the depopulated Tepe-Kermen, used by residents of the surrounding villages. When the Crimean Peninsula came under the rule of the Ottoman Empire in 1475, the Turks finally destroyed Christian shrines, after which a period of complete oblivion began that lasted almost 500 years. In 1969, the site was rediscovered by D. Talis, who began conducting archaeological excavations.
What is interesting about Tepe-Kerman?
Now the cave city of Tepe-Kermen in Crimea, like other interesting places on the peninsula, is a landmark and tourist attraction that attracts a lot of visitors. The current ancient polis is about 250 grottoes and caves, carved into 3 tiers, occupying a total area of just over 1.2 hectares. It is the second largest among its kind in the region - after, the number of caves of which reaches almost 300 units.
Two roads leading to the settlement, used by residents since ancient times, have survived to this day. The northern one, which was once the main and quite busy one, has even preserved traces of cart wheels that cut deep into it, as well as the remains of gates and fortifications. These ruins evoke mixed feelings - on the one hand, they are perhaps the only above-ground buildings in Tepe-Kermen that do not fit well into the overall landscape, on the other hand, they amaze with their monumentality even in such a deplorable state.
Most of the buildings have residential, economic and religious purposes; their walls are often covered with inscriptions in Greek and Hebrew that are difficult to discern, but individual fragments can still be read. 
It is interesting that not a single well has yet been found on its territory, but there are dozens of gutters and pools carved on a flat surface, apparently intended for collecting rainwater. On the slopes of the mountain, slightly below the main buildings, a necropolis with numerous crypts and tombstones was well preserved, but, unfortunately, it was completely plundered.
The most interesting objects of Tepe-Kermen are represented by the remains of three churches; now only foundations and small sections of walls remain from them, and they are interesting as the only above-ground buildings of the settlement. They have a small area and conventional names dating back to the beginning of the twentieth century, but these are the most striking monuments of the cave complex. Two of them - the “church with the baptistery” and the “church with the sacristy” - have been preserved somewhat better, the third, destroyed to the ground, does not even have a conventional name.
