Russian fashionista of the mid-18th - early 20th centuries. Handsome man. Russian fashionista at the theater
April 4, 2018 at 16.00 in the Sheremetevsky Palace (Fontanka River embankment, 34) will open exhibition “Handsome man. Russian fashionista at the theater", dedicated to the phenomenon of male panache in Russia, famous fashionistas of Russian literature and theater, images of the dandy theater stage late XVIII – early XX centuries. For the exhibition, the Alexandrinsky Theater provided more than 50 authentic vintage costumes and details of men's wardrobe from the late 18th to early 20th centuries, which were used in many performances and have now become part of the cultural and historical heritage. Silk-embroidered satin camisoles and velvet caftans trimmed with metallic lace, skillfully corded Hungarian jackets and luxurious house dressing gowns, frock coats and tailcoats of the finest English cloth, elegant vests from the best French tailors, removable collars and cuffs and many different little things will again appear before the public, just like many years ago, when recognized masters and ordinary extras of the St. Petersburg Theater came on stage in these costumes imperial theaters(not only the Russian drama troupe, but also the ballet, as well as the St. Petersburg Italian Opera, French drama).
Each suit has its own unique creative biography, some of the stages of which we can learn from the inscriptions preserved on the lining. Sometimes inside one suit you can read the names of very different actors: middle or late XIX century, beginning of the twentieth century, war and post-war years.
Until the end of the 19th century, artists often appeared on stage in their own clothes, their fashion accessories becoming elements of the theatrical image. Personal belongings of V.V. Samoilova, K.A. Varlamova, N.N. Fignera, F.I. Stravinsky, F.I. Chaliapin are adjacent to theirs stage costumes, portraits and photographs that create standard images of a “handsome man.” The theatrical plot of the exhibition would be incomplete without literary heroes: from Onegin and Chatsky to Antropka from “Fashion Shop” by I.A. Krylova. Their incarnations on the stages of St. Petersburg theaters over the course of an entire century have been carefully studied and reflected in the exhibition.
The prologue to the historical part of the exhibition will be a theatrical “black office” with a gallery of portraits famous actors and directors XX – beginning of the XXI centuries, tastemakers and idols of the general public.
In the project “Handsome Man. Russian fashionista at the theater" also takes part in the Peterhof State Museum of Art, the State Museum of A. S. Pushkin (Moscow), the All-Russian Museum of A. S. Pushkin (St. Petersburg), the State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, the St. Petersburg Theater Library, Russian National Library, Bolshoi Museum drama theater, Theater Museum named after. Lensovet, the museum of the theater-festival “Baltic House”, the magazines “Sobaka.ru” and “Caravan of Stories”.
Galina Tsvetaeva reviews: 251 ratings: 253 rating: 322
On Mondays, almost all museums are closed. And I have two hours of free time. I was in the center, I remembered the exhibition hall of the Historical Museum, it turned out to be closed without any announcements. Turning around, I saw a poster at the War of 1812 Museum for the exhibition “Handsome Man” and decided to visit this exhibition. It's a pity there was no excursion. But it was interesting enough anyway. The exhibition is divided into three parts: petimeter, dandy, decadence. Lots of explanatory information. All exhibits are well lit, you can approach them all and look closely at them. First section: petimeters. Not only are items of clothing from the Alexander Vasiliev Foundation (Vilnius) presented, but the portraits clearly show what men of the petimeter period looked like. Surprisingly, the men were not very large, judging by their costumes. And they had a ton of different decorations. One can only be surprised at the quantity. The next section is dandy. I immediately remembered Pushkin: “Like a dandy Londoner dressed - and finally saw the light.” You can immediately imagine social life, balls, clubs, receptions - idle life young rake. How many different bottles, devices, cane knobs with secrets in which knives, nail files, and so on were stored. Then decadence with its sophistication and sophistication. How beautifully preserved are the top hats, hats, and underwear. It's hard to imagine how it survived. Great things for golf, playing sports was fashionable.
I really liked the things from the British School of Design. What talented designers we have. The things they created are incomparable, combining shockingness and practicality. They can and should be worn and introduced into mass production. Bright colors decorate life and improve mood. It's great that at least a few people wear this.
The exhibition is of interest to everyone who cares about fashion and its development, who wants to take a fresh look at old things and find something for themselves in new things.
Two hours flew by unnoticed because it was interesting. Thanks to the organizers for the fascinating presentation of the material and my admiration for the designers of the British School of Design.
Nadezhda Nikolaeva reviews: 21 ratings: 21 ratings: 4
We visited the exhibition at the State Historical Museum - “Handsome man. Russian fashionista mid-18th century- the beginning of the twentieth century." This is the first major project in Russia, entirely dedicated to the history of men's fashion. The exhibition presents more than 600 items. Among the exhibits are examples of men's dresses and underwear, there are modern suits, jewelry and fashion accessories, appearance care products, paintings, engravings, photographs, caricatures, magazines and books. All men's dresses are made from natural fabrics: cloth, wool, brocade, silk, satin. And the buckles for the shoes are a masterpiece! And the snuff boxes, and the embroidered vests, caftans. , wallets and wallets - all this is a real work of art. What craftswomen and craftsmen were! This is how our Russian fashionistas dressed! In the novel “Eugene Onegin” Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin writes about the newest Russians: “... Dashing fashion, our tyrant, the disease of the newest ones.” Russians!" Just think two hundred years ago - there were new Russians, with an invincible passion for fashion. Fashion extends not only to clothes, shoes. Everything external is fashion, these are fashionable writers, artists, poets, etc. To lag behind fashion, For many it means falling behind in life. This is how it was in Pushkin’s time, and this is how it is in our times.
There are a lot of interesting things to consider, I recommend it and it’s better with a guide, a different perception, the exhibits come to life.
Maya Sugakova reviews: 27 ratings: 27 rating: 15
Analysis of passions.
“Fandorin dressed as an inconspicuous Englishman: a black bowler hat, a black jacket, black trousers, a black tie. In Moscow, perhaps, he would have been mistaken for an undertaker, but in London, presumably, he would pass for an invisible man.” Boris Akunin "Azazel"
On Red Square in the Historical Museum there is an exhibition “Handsome for a man Russian fashionista of the mid-18th and early 20th centuries.” The exhibition is NOT stuffed with antique objects and weapons, it is laconic and slightly cold, in three huge rooms exhibition hall quick illumination, it’s said famous writer, that “a noble husband remembers: dignity is not in what happens to you, but in how you behave!” . There are three rooms at the exhibition where insignia of clothing and accessories are collected, when something French was fashionable, and then something English, and then fashion united with all foreign habits and became different. It’s great that at the exhibition I didn’t find any inscriptions of “hackneyed” phrases about how everything in a person should be beautiful, about how beauty will save the world, etc. famous phrases. In the inscriptions above ancient objects you can read other interesting passages and quotes from primary sources of that time. I learned a new, but already outdated for us, word “five meters”, which means young secular dandies, dandies, imitating everything French. "It was here favorite place Moscow dandies - five meters, as the satirical literature of that time called them." E. Radzinsky, “Princess Tarakanova”. An officer’s uniform, jewelry, the ability to tie a tie in several ways, look through a lorgnette in a timely manner, properly powder a wig, put on a hat, including a straw hat, which must be EXCLUSIVELY with a black ribbon, mannered sniffing tobacco, taking out an elegant snuffbox, sneezing at the caricatures of those times in which fashion and fashionistas were ridiculed, being able to dance tango and be an athlete - all these are signs of a time of decadence, dandyism and courtliness. Several objects seemed extremely bulky to me, and some behind the glass seemed slightly fragile and puny, such were the dimensions of the handsome men of that time. The connection between five meters and modernity - several exhibits of the British school, and they are so good in everything that you are amazed at the talents of the Russian land in a foreign land. After the exhibition, near the exit, there is a book of reviews in which guests write down their impressions, I ask you to leave time to look through it, believe me, it is no less interesting in its details than the exhibition, which will last until the end of July.
For the first time, presenting to the public a project entirely dedicated to the history of men's fashion and the phenomenon of male panache in Russia.
Currently men's fashion is experiencing a period of unprecedented prosperity. Attention reviewers fashion magazines, fashion historians, bloggers are drawn to men's fashion weeks - after all, this is where the most interesting and daring experiments take place. In Russia, especially in major cities, designer clothing and accessories stores for men, men's cosmetics stores, men's hairdressers and barbershops are opening, new men's magazines and all kinds of guides on men's style. Every year, interest in the history of men's fashion increases not only among specialists, but also among the general public, which is no coincidence: in order to see the ways of further development of fashion, you need to know its history.
The exhibition presents three of the most striking periods in the history of men's fashion. Imperial Russia. The first period dates back to the middle - second half of the 18th century. It was at this time that European-style fashionistas, or, as they were then called, petimeters, appeared among the court environment. The second period occurs in the first third of the 19th century and is associated with the penetration of fashion for the style of British dandies into Russia. The third period refers to the first two decades of the 20th century and passes on one side under the sign popular culture, and on the other - the refined aesthetics of decadence.
The exhibition presents more than 600 items from the funds of the State historical museum, State Museum A.S. Pushkin, State historical library, Russian state library, as well as the Alexander Vasiliev Foundation (Vilnius). Among the exhibits are examples of men's dresses and underwear, jewelry and fashion accessories, grooming products; paintings, engravings, photographs, caricatures, magazines and books. Many of the items on display will be shown to the public for the first time. Collected in one space, they will recreate the enchanting image of fashionistas of the past. Rich artistic material will allow visitors to enjoy magnificent paintings, luxurious costumes and objects of decorative and applied art.
The exhibition will feature a unique men's fragrance specially developed for the State Historical Museum by the Russian natural perfume brand Selection Excellence.
The exhibition will last until July 28, 2017.
Address: Exhibition complex of the Historical Museum. Revolution Square, 2/3.
Operating mode: Monday - Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00; Friday and Saturday from 10:00 to 21:00. The ticket office closes 1 hour before the museum closes.
Tuesday is a day off.
Ticket price: 300 rubles. There are benefits. Details.
Persons under 16 years of age, regardless of citizenship - for free.
IN last resurrection every month:
Students of Russian colleges, technical schools, universities
regardless of the form of training; Students aged 16 to 18 years (upon presentation of a certificate from the place of study); Members large families - for free.
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Men's suits that cost a fortune just for the buttons. And also wigs, stockings, ties, mustache brushes and hundreds of a wide variety of truly unique items of men's wardrobe. From Tuesday it can be seen on display at the State Historical Museum. And it’s not even very clear who – men or women – will find the exhibition about fashion for the stronger sex more interesting.
Camisoles, vests with embroidery, made of luxurious fabrics. Before they go to captivate the public, they are carefully and carefully fastened. However, a button in the 18th century was rather a decorative thing. Used as decoration. And mostly men. Ladies practically didn’t wear them back then. At one time, buttons with views of Paris or made of cut steel were in fashion, reports.
“It’s clear that this is an exaggeration of satire, but one of the satires says that such a button cost two peasants to one dandy, two serfs!” - said the author of the exhibition "Handsome Man. Russian fashionista of the mid-18th - early 20th centuries" Natalya Vinogradova.
Men have always spent fortunes on fashionable toilets. This is prestige social status. This is the first time such a large-scale project has taken place at the Historical Museum: men's fashion of Imperial Russia - from the gallant age to decadence. 600 exhibits. This is our own rich collection, and fashion historian Alexander Vasiliev helped with some rarities.
Another rarity is being prepared for display - stockings from the 18th century. After all, male, and not female, legs were then considered a model of beauty. “The only thing that decorated the legs were the legs themselves; they were covered with stockings. The stockings really emphasized the relief of the leg itself. But not everyone had ideally beautiful legs. In order for the legs to appear more beautifully outlined, false calves were often placed,” noted Natalya Vinogradova.
And even underwear will be shown at the exhibition. Braces in the 19th century were a very intimate thing. Usually only the wife saw them. By the way, she most often embroidered. But the fashionista had to tie the tie exclusively himself. Entrusting this to another was considered bad manners. For beginners, they even published special manuals - 40 ways to tie a tie.
But besides fashionable clothes a real man has always been surrounded by many useful things and accessories. Brushes for combing eyelashes and mustaches, toothpicks, bottles for aromatic substances or multi-colored snuff boxes.
“Without a concept of style, without a concept of fashion, without a costume, this or that era looks quite bland, and we don’t get a full idea of how people lived, what they looked like at that time,” said Alexey Levykin, director of the State Historical Museum.
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