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Greenhouses are the best structures for growing fruit and vegetable crops on protected ground. By design, it consists of a frame and a coating that transmits light (propylene, glass or film). In addition, the structure must have windows, doors and vents for maintenance and ventilation. Also, some walls can be sheathed with boards or covered with bricks for additional protection and insulation.

It’s easy to build greenhouses with your own hands from scrap materials, but at the same time such structures have fairly high functionality and allow you to grow vegetables, fruits and herbs all year round.

How to make a greenhouse at home

Many greenhouse owners are interested in the question of whether it is possible to use a conventional structure in the cold season. It’s worth noting right away that without special equipment for heating and ventilation, a conventional structure will not be suitable for growing vegetables and fruits (Figure 1). Based on this, it is worth asking the question of how to build a greenhouse for winter growing fresh vegetables and herbs.

In general, all greenhouses are built according to the same principle: first they build a foundation, then a frame, after which they begin cladding and installing the necessary equipment. But when building winter types, there are certain features that we will describe below.

Conditions

A winter greenhouse can be made either single-sloped or double-sloped, and the structure can be either adjacent to the house or located at some distance from it. But it should be taken into account that wall structures are more suitable for small farms, since the wall of the house will protect the structure from the cold and reduce heating costs.

Before construction, you need to choose an area with maximum sun exposure. To do this, it is better to place the building from east to west: this way the plants in it will receive a sufficient amount of light, although lamps will still have to be used for additional lighting. In addition, if cold winds are often observed in your region, you need to provide wind protection: locate the room near another building or plant a hedge a few meters away from it.

Peculiarities

The technology for constructing a winter greenhouse is typical, but still has some features that help retain heat for normal crop growth.

If you are interested in how to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands, be sure to take into account the following rules:

• The foundation must be strong and high enough so that cold from the ground does not penetrate into the structure;
• Inside, it is advisable to arrange warm beds with a special soil mixture (sand, turf soil and humus);
• Heating and lighting devices must be installed to create an optimal microclimate inside. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system, and it is better to use stove or gas heating.

At the same time, it is necessary to equip all life support systems with automation so that growing crops indoors requires minimal human intervention.

DIY greenhouses from scrap materials

The construction of a greenhouse begins with marking the location for the foundation. To do this, take a cord and several stakes and mark one of the side walls. Stick the stake into the ground, measure the required length and pull the cord. After this, use a square to determine the location of the end wall, measure its length and insert another peg. The remaining stakes are placed using the same principle, and a cord is pulled between them. Next, we check the angles and measure the diagonals (they should be the same). Detailed instructions for marking and building the foundation are given in Figure 2.

Which covering material is better?

It is impossible to build a greenhouse without the correct selection of covering material. Many people prefer to use ordinary polyethylene film for this purpose, but this material is far from the most successful of those presented on the modern market.

Let's try to figure out which material is best to use as a covering for the frame (Figure 3).

The use of glass is considered a fairly popular method of making cladding. For example, you can make a small greenhouse from old window frames, but if the greenhouse is large, you will have to order glass for it separately, and they are quite expensive. Despite the high cost, this design will last a very long time, and the glass itself is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, can easily withstand the heavy weight of snow and helps maintain a stable temperature inside the structure.

Note: Film coating is considered a more economical option, but it is not durable enough. Regular film can last only one season, so for more durable buildings it is better to choose reinforced film, which does not need to be replaced for 6-8 years. In this case, it is advisable to fasten the film so that it is not damaged by sharp corners.

The best coating is considered to be polycarbonate. This is a lightweight and durable material that allows sufficient sunlight to pass through while retaining heat inside the structure. Since it is quite expensive, it is worth buying it only if the room will be used constantly.

Greenhouses: how to make soil for planting

The abundance of the harvest largely depends on the quality of the soil used for growing plants. It is impossible to pour ordinary soil from the garden onto the beds, as it may contain weed seeds and pathogens of dangerous diseases that will destroy the plants.

Note: If it is not possible to prepare a special soil mixture for the greenhouse, and ordinary garden soil will be used for the beds, it is advisable to disinfect it using special preparations (for example, Inta-Vir).

But, if you want to get a really rich harvest, you still have to spend a little time making a suitable soil mixture. The most fertile substrate is considered to be one that contains one part each of peat, humus, turf soil and sawdust. This soil is quite light and fertile, so additional fertilizer is required only at the stage of direct cultivation of crops. But, as in the case of ordinary garden soil, it is advisable to disinfect the mixture before laying it on the beds.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood

Depending on the design, greenhouses can be single-pitched, gable, hipped, arched, wall-mounted, pit-built, or be part of the house. In addition, they can be stationary (the structure cannot be disassembled) or portable.

Additionally, they are divided by type of coating (film and glazed) and heating method (heated by the sun or equipment).

When choosing a form, you should take into account the location of the building relative to parts of the world, other buildings on the territory, as well as the purpose and shading. The optimal location is one in which the southern part of the horizon is visible from the entrance. To do this, imagine that you are standing with your back to the entrance. If positioned correctly, the sun will pass from east to west in a clockwise direction. The transparent wall should be oriented to the south, since in this case the maximum amount of light will get inside.

Note: The location of the greenhouse on the cardinal points is important only if the walls (all or several) are made of opaque material. If it is completely covered with film or glass, these indicators do not play a decisive role.

If the building is shaded by trees or neighboring buildings (for example, in a small area), its northern side is made of opaque material that will prevent hypothermia inside the building. To improve the reflection of heat and light, the roof is made transparent, and one of the walls is covered with white paint or a reflective screen.

Each type of greenhouse has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages(Figure 4):

• Single and double slope- one of the most popular. They are rectangular and can be placed in any part of the site, while the internal space is used almost completely. If a structure of this type is built on a foundation and equipped with heating devices, crops can be grown all year round. The only drawback of single- and double-slope types is the rather complex construction and the need to purchase a large amount of materials.
• Arched They are easier to build, but they are not intended for long-term use due to the insufficiently strong frame. However, the streamlined shape makes it resistant to gusts of wind, and the condensation that collects inside drips onto the ground and not onto the plants. In addition, it is difficult to grow garden plants in an arched greenhouse (special shelves are equipped for them). Additional costs will be incurred by ventilation equipment, since standard side ventilation is not suitable for this type.
• Wall mounted Greenhouses and residential buildings are primarily used as winter gardens. They are more economically beneficial, since the heat in them is maintained by heating the house. The disadvantage is that to grow full-fledged plants, additional lighting equipment will be required.
• pit There are single and double slopes. Their main feature is that the side walls are made of brick and immersed in the ground. Thanks to this, heating costs are significantly saved.

If the greenhouse will be used not only for growing crops, but also as a decoration for a personal plot, it can be made polygonal. But in this case, construction costs increase significantly.

What is needed for this

Building a greenhouse with your own hands from wood is quite simple, because it requires a minimum of knowledge, tools and materials (Figure 5).

A frame is built from wood, which is then covered with glass or film. The main condition is to properly prepare and process the wood. The beams that will be used to build the frame are cleaned of dust and dirt, washed with clean water and dried. After this, they need to be sanded and treated with an antiseptic solution to prevent early rotting.

The beams are fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws, and after the structure is completely ready, it needs to be painted, painting not only the wood, but also the metal parts.

Where is the best place to place it?

When planning the placement of a greenhouse on a site, you need to take into account the prevailing winds and the movement of the sun. In order for the plants inside the structure to be illuminated as much as possible by the sun, it is better to place it from east to west.

If your region often experiences strong winds, it is advisable to install the structure near other buildings or large trees. At the same time, too much shading of the structure should not be allowed.

Foundation

When marking the area for the foundation, use a level, since the ground must be absolutely level. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the frame, and if its parts can be adjusted and mounted, the structure will be subject to overload and the frame may become deformed.

Note: According to the rules, the room must have a slight slope for water drainage, but even when building small structures this rule may not be followed.

After marking, you can begin building the foundation. It must be very durable, since it not only supports the weight of the greenhouse itself, but also protects the plants from cold air and pests. As a rule, ready-made collapsible structures include materials for building a foundation (beams or pipes). But they are not strong enough and do not protect against frost and rodents. Therefore, it is recommended to lay it out of concrete or brick. The width must be at least 10 cm, and it should be placed below the freezing level of the soil.

You can also use special blocks to build the foundation. They are hollow inside, so after installation the inside is filled with concrete. They also use curb stone laid on a layer of concrete. Options for foundation construction are shown in Figure 6.

If the foundation is high (for example, located at a height of 30 cm from ground level), it will be inconvenient to bring or bring fertilizers and water inside. In this case, decking is installed at the entrance or the door is lowered to ground level, using the free space to equip shelves on which seedlings can later be grown.

Additionally, it is covered with waterproofing material to retain heat inside. During construction, care should also be taken to equip a container for draining excess water. It is better to bury such a container in the ground so that it does not take up internal space. The drain must be tightly closed to prevent condensation and irrigation water from entering it. Practical recommendations for marking and building a foundation are in the video.

Construction stages

Several methods are used to build the basement:

• Sheets of heat-insulating material are laid on the inside, a binding wire is laid and the surface is filled with concrete;
• Cast blocks with gravel are laid on the base. This material retains heat well and has a high load-bearing capacity. But if the wall is expected to be high, it is additionally reinforced with reinforcement;
• Wooden materials impregnated under pressure with protective compounds are laid. In the future, the tree is additionally insulated.

The choice of material and method for building a basement depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on the type of soil and type of foundation. In addition, certain types of plinths require additional processing. For example, a concrete base does not need to be painted, but if it is built from concrete or sand blocks, the surface must be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint (Figure 7).

As a rule, a set of finished products includes a frame that only needs to be mounted. But if you are building with your own hands, the frame is most often made of wood or metal.

For this, planed lumber or metal profiles are used. When choosing materials for the frame, you should pay attention to several important details:

• Lumber intended for construction is treated with a special green compound, so the frame will have to be additionally painted. Such wood is quite expensive, but its service life is longer than regular wood. It is important that the impregnation composition is poisonous, so the roots or leaves of plants should not be allowed to come into contact with the tree.
• Pillars, ceilings and other vertical elements can be made from boards (50 x 100 or 50 x 125 mm). To install beams, timber is used, the size of which depends on the length of the building.

The construction of the frame begins with roofing felt or rubberized material being laid on the base. On lumber intended for horizontal fastening, mark and drill holes for bolts and place them around the perimeter of the plinth. After this, we outline the places for attaching the vertical beams. A detailed frame installation diagram is shown in Figure 8.

Having attached the horizontal elements to the base, check them at level, cut the vertical beams into pieces of the required size.

Note: It is not recommended to saw vertical beams in advance, since they may cause errors when installed on a plinth.

The next step is to attach the vertical posts to the top beams. Having marked the position of each board or beam, fix it with an obliquely driven nail. The optimal distance between the vertical posts is considered to be 30 or 60 cm, since in this case it is easy to glaze.

At the final stage, the vertical posts are attached to the lower and upper beams with nails, and to strengthen the structure, it is recommended to tie the joints with steel staples, wire or tape with an anti-corrosion coating. After this, the cladding boards and gutters are attached. During the work, all cut points and holes for fastenings must be treated with an antiseptic. You will learn detailed recommendations for installing the frame from the video.

How to make a greenhouse from old window frames

Do-it-yourself greenhouses made from scrap materials are practically no different in functionality from expensive polycarbonate structures. Of course, they are not very suitable for winter growing crops, but they will successfully serve for several seasons under operating conditions in spring, summer and autumn.

One of the simplest structures is considered to be a greenhouse made from old window frames (Figure 9). For it, you need to make a concrete foundation, and if the building is located on clay or swampy soil, you need to additionally equip a gravel cushion.

But the most important step is the preparation of the raw materials themselves - old window frames. To do this, remove all handles, latches, hinges and other metal parts. The old paint is removed, the wood is treated with an antiseptic and repainted. In most cases, frames are fastened together with nails. Therefore, it is advisable to remove the glass in advance so as not to damage it during the installation process.

The frames are attached to a frame made of wooden beams. You can leave several vents for ventilation, and make the roof polycarbonate. The remaining windows that will not open during operation are carefully sealed with sealant.

How to make a foundation

The choice of material for building the foundation depends on the characteristics of the soil and the type of greenhouse itself. Let's look at the most popular options.

• Made from concrete

Suitable for homogeneous soil composition with average bearing capacity. In this case, a support is made directly at the construction site: wooden formwork is installed in a hole 30 cm deep, and the space is filled with liquid concrete. The bottom of the pit should be level and covered with a layer of crushed stone or sand. If the site has rocky soil, dig a hole down to the rock and thoroughly clean its surface (Figure 10).

The formwork must be square (side length 30 cm). The boards must be tied together so that they do not deform when pouring. Reinforcement is placed inside the formwork and concrete is poured.

• From piles

For areas with soft soil, a pile foundation is more suitable. Typically, piles are made of concrete and buried or driven into the ground. However, this method of construction is too expensive and requires the use of special equipment. Therefore, on a personal plot, you can use other methods of constructing a pile foundation:

1. Drive old rails or other metal beams into the ground;
2. Use sleepers impregnated with special compounds for longer service life.

Metal piles can be freely driven into the ground without fear of deformation. In this case, choose beams long enough so that their lower part reaches soil layers with high load-bearing capacity.

Note: Before driving piles, mark the area so that enough space is allocated for the foundation. This is necessary, since during the driving process the pile may encounter a stone or other hard rock, and its direction will have to be changed.

You need to drive piles while standing on a special stand. But even if you decide to build a small greenhouse on stilts, it is better to consult a specialist in advance.

• From concrete slabs

A foundation built from concrete slabs is quite expensive. But its cost is compensated by its high strength, reliability and load-bearing capacity even on soft soils.

It is based on a reinforced concrete slab 20 cm thick, which evenly distributes the load. However, concrete slabs cannot be laid on loose soil. If this is still necessary, the soil layer is removed and replaced with crushed stone or gravel. Styrox (10 cm thick) is laid on the crushed stone and the surface is filled with concrete. The technology for constructing a foundation from piles and concrete slabs is shown in Figure 11.

Selecting a foundation is especially difficult for clay areas or soil that changes its composition in depth. In this case, it is better to consult with a specialist so that the greenhouse does not deform after construction and has sufficient thermal insulation.

Construction stages

To make a greenhouse from old window frames correctly, you need to follow certain rules.

Step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse include the following steps:

1. Construction of the foundation: since this structure is quite heavy, it is advisable to make the corners of the foundation from stone, and between them to make a structure of concrete on a bed of gravel and sand.
2. Prepare building material: remove all metal fittings from old frames, remove old paint, treat the wood with antiseptic and repaint.
3. Make a floor: to do this, they first compact the earth, and then make a concrete screed on it, on which the beds will be located in the future
4. Construction and framing of the frame: the base to which the frames will be attached is made of beams of the same thickness as the frames. The parts are fastened together with nails, and the roof can be made of film or polycarbonate.

After the greenhouse is completely ready, beds are arranged in it or shelving is installed. It is also advisable to provide a vestibule in which inventory and necessary equipment will be stored.

How to make a greenhouse yourself from a profile pipe

Profile pipes are widely used in construction, and since this material is light and durable, it can also be used to make a greenhouse.

Since it is difficult to bend a profile pipe at a right angle without the use of special equipment, it is best to build arched models with it.

Where is the best place to place it?

A greenhouse made from a profile pipe can be placed on almost any part of the site. Since this design is lightweight, it does not carry much load on the soil, and they can be built even in marshy and clayey areas.

It is important to take into account that greenhouses made from profile pipes are subject to the same requirements as buildings made from other materials. To protect the structure from strong winds, it is advisable to build the greenhouse under the protection of other buildings or hedges. And to provide plants with optimal lighting, it is advisable to place the building from east to west.

Foundation

A profile pipe is much lighter than wood, so the foundation for a greenhouse made from it can be anything. However, if you plan to operate the building for a long time, it is better to make a permanent foundation of concrete.

If a greenhouse made from a profile pipe will be used only in the summer, you can bypass it without a foundation by installing the frame supports directly into the ground. But in this case, it is necessary to provide additional protection to the plants by installing wooden formwork around the perimeter.

Construction stages

The construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe begins with site preparation (Figure 12). It is advisable to choose a flat area with sandy soil. If there is no such place, the soil is leveled manually, and drainage is installed on swampy soils.

Next, they begin to manufacture and install the frame. If you want to build a rectangular greenhouse, you will have to buy special equipment with which the pipe can be bent at the desired angle. To avoid additional costs, it is better to build arched structures. In this case, the pipe can simply be bent into an arc and dug into the ground on both sides.

At the final stage of construction, the frame is sheathed with film, glass or polycarbonate, the floor and beds are made, or shelving is installed.

Make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands (drawings)

The most modern and functional option is the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse (Figure 13). This is a lightweight, durable and wear-resistant material that will last for many years. Its only drawback is the high price, so it is worth building such greenhouses only if it will be used for a long time.

You can make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands according to the drawings, but many people prefer to buy ready-made structures and install them on site. We will tell you how to save money and build a protected ground structure with your own hands.

What is needed for this

First of all, you need to buy polycarbonate for construction. Another advantage is that the sheets have a standard length and width (12 and 2.10 meters, respectively). This allows you to build a greenhouse 3.5 meters wide and cover the roof with one whole sheet.

In addition to the polycarbonate itself, for construction you will need materials for the foundation, fittings for fastening sheets and a plastic U-shaped profile, which covers the edges of the polycarbonate to protect its honeycombs from dust.

Peculiarities

Apart from the high cost of polycarbonate, the material has no other significant disadvantages. Of course, its honeycombs can become clogged with dust, and the coating will lose transparency, but this problem can be easily solved with the help of a plastic profile that is attached to the edges of the sheet.

Like other types of structures, polycarbonate greenhouses require a foundation, but its purpose is not to strengthen the building, but to protect the plants from the external environment.

Where is the best place to place it?

In addition, it is advisable to install the greenhouse so that the plants receive the maximum amount of sunlight. To do this, you need to position the structure from east to west.

Foundation

To build a foundation that will exactly fit the size of the greenhouse, you need to place the site by installing pegs and stringing rope between them. After this, you can begin installing the foundation.

Note: Since polycarbonate is a lightweight material, the foundation can be built either strip (from concrete) or wooden - from beams and supports.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as supports, which are installed in the corners of the greenhouse. The soil around them is compacted, and the foundation is made of wooden beams. It is better to treat the wood with an antiseptic and paint it so that the structure does not rot.

Construction stages

The steps for constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse are the same as for other materials. First, the site is marked out and the foundation is built. After this, the installation of the frame begins. It can be made of wood, profile pipes or aluminum. The latter option is considered preferable, since aluminum is quite light, but at the same time durable.

At the final stages, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, equipment for watering, heating and ventilation is installed inside the structure, and the beds are arranged.

How to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands

The design of a heated greenhouse is practically no different from conventional structures. But you need to take into account several important nuances. First, you need to carefully seal all the cracks so that heat does not escape from the greenhouse.

Secondly, you need to install heating equipment. You can make warm beds by arranging them according to the principle of a warm floor and laying pipes under the ground. But a more popular option is to install heating: a gas, electric or stove boiler.

When building closed ground structures, it is important not only to build a high-quality and durable frame, but also to properly think through the interior space of the room. Arranging the inside of a greenhouse involves using some planning tricks that will help you wisely use the free space to place beds and all the necessary equipment.

You will learn in this article how to set up a polycarbonate greenhouse inside and how to arrange beds for growing vegetables, herbs and other crops.

Arrangement of the greenhouse inside

To successfully grow plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to ensure a stable indoor microclimate. To do this, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation, install heating devices in it, and also ensure optimal levels of humidity, lighting and fresh air flow.

Transparent materials that allow sunlight to pass through are used as coverings for greenhouses. Inside the room they are converted into thermal energy. The main task is to limit the transfer of heat from the internal space to the outside. It is necessary to install devices in the building that will evenly distribute the flow of thermal energy. When arranging it, you need to use materials and devices that can absorb and accumulate thermal energy.

For these purposes, you can use ordinary building materials. For example, if you use natural stone as a floor covering, it will absorb heat during the day and release it into the space at night. Brick and concrete, which are most often used for construction, have a low ability to store heat, but if the building has walls and floors of the correct thickness, these materials will also help ensure an optimal microclimate. For example, the thickness of a concrete wall should be 200-250 mm, and a brick wall - 130-150 mm.

Other means can be used as heat storage devices:

• Water containers: their surface must be coated with dark paint so that they better absorb the sun's rays. Large barrels, old paint cans or other containers can be used as water heat accumulators.
• Priming: using ordinary soil as a heat accumulator is the simplest and cheapest way. However, the soil itself has a low ability to accumulate heat, so special mechanical devices must be used to heat it.
• Stone: it can be used as a decorative element and a heat accumulator at the same time. But for the device to operate efficiently, fans are additionally installed to uniformly heat the stones. As a rule, natural stones are laid in one row against the wall, which receives maximum sunlight. They are laid out in one row, leaving small gaps for air circulation. In addition, stones can be placed under the floor.

To improve the microclimate, greenhouses are equipped with additional thermal insulation. Recommendations for thermal insulation are shown in Figure 1.

To do this, you need to reduce the transparency of the coating by attaching the greenhouse to a residential building or using shading. In addition, to reduce heat loss they use:

• Thermal insulation of windows: It is better to install windows with double frames indoors. This will not only reduce heat loss, but also prevent the formation of condensation.
• Movable heat insulating means: Shutters, blinds, curtains or curtains can be used as such means. Advantage should be given to sliding structures to save internal space. Rigid and flexible thermal insulation materials can be used both inside and outside the building.
• Thermal insulation of the base part: It is through the floor of a protected ground structure that the most heat is lost, so the base of the building must be insulated.

It is also important to protect the structure from wind, which creates a pressure difference and leads to heat loss. Therefore, the greenhouse must be placed so that it is protected from the prevailing winds by another building, fence or hedge.

How to make beds in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Arrangement of the building inside with planning tricks first of all involves the proper placement of beds.

Note: It is better to build a greenhouse from polycarbonate, as it is a lightweight and durable material that allows you to create optimal climatic conditions inside.

To know how to make beds in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you first need to decide on the type of structure of the protected soil. They can be ground or racked, respectively, and the plants are placed either on ground beds or on special racks. At home, ground greenhouses are considered more popular.

When planning the placement of beds, it is necessary to take into account the location of the structure itself relative to the cardinal directions, the expected number and size of beds and the characteristics of the crops that will be grown indoors.

The standard arrangement of beds in a 6*3 meter greenhouse includes the following nuances(Figure 2):

• The number of beds is 2-3 pieces, depending on the width of the structure;
• The optimal width is 120 cm, since in this case the plants are easy to care for by moving along the paths;
• To have free access to all plants, you need to make not only longitudinal, but also transverse passes;
• The width of the longitudinal passage should be at least 50 cm, since in this case you can move freely along the passage with the necessary tools.

Another option that is considered convenient is that there is a wide bed in the middle and two narrow ones near the walls. This arrangement allows you to gain access to all the plants, but at the same time maintain useful soil area.

Many greenhouse owners have long appreciated the benefits of raised beds. Firstly, they save usable space, and secondly, they make caring for plants much easier, since a person does not need to bend too low to weed, water or loosen the soil.

Note: Raised beds also allow for early harvests, as the soil warms up faster and retains heat longer.

There are several options for creating raised beds(Figure 3):

1. A frame is made from wooden boards into which the soil mixture is poured. To prevent wood from rotting in high humidity conditions, it must be treated with special antiseptics. The disadvantage of this method is that ants often infest the wood, and if this happens, the material will have to be changed to another.
2. A raised bed can also be made from compressed polystyrene foam. It is better to take sheets 4 cm wide: they are quite durable and retain heat well.
3. Asbestos-cement slabs are also often used to build high beds. They are cut into pieces and attached to metal rods. This is a durable material, but it is considered harmful, so it is better to choose only chrysolite asbestos, which is less toxic.
4. Brick sides are the simplest, strongest and most durable option. For construction, you can use any bricks that will last for a long time.

It is better not to use slate for the construction of high beds, as it releases carcinogens into the air that are harmful to human health.

Fencing and covering paths in a greenhouse

When arranging the inside of a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide a covering and fencing for the paths so that the soil does not crumble from the beds.

For this purpose, it is best to use boards treated with special agents against rotting and fungus (Figure 4). The boards are buried in the ground so that they protrude several centimeters above the ground level. It is not recommended to make the sides high, as they will complicate the care of plants.

Soil preparation and quality

For rapid growth of crops, the soil must be more fertile than in open areas. There is no need to change the soil every year; it is enough to just add manure or compost, the amount of which is a tenth of the total amount of soil. To further saturate the soil with nutrients, add bone meal, dolomite mixture, peat and wood ash. Figure 5 outlines the procedure for preparing soil for beds in protected soil structures.

All soil components must be thoroughly mixed. Since the soil for the greenhouse contains peat, the soil will be quite porous. This mixture retains moisture well and contains a minimal amount of weed seeds and roots. Before planting and after harvesting, the soil should be fertilized with compost.

Are common soil requirements for a greenhouse include:

• The composition must include organic components with living beneficial microorganisms;
• The soil should be saturated with minerals that are easily absorbed by the root system of plants;
• The acidity should be optimal (6.5-7 pH), and the soil itself should have good air permeability and retain moisture.

Different soil mixtures have their own characteristics, and they are selected depending on the crops that will be grown indoors. For example, for seedlings you need to take hygroscopic soil, consisting of garden soil, sand and peat in equal quantities. Additionally, the beds are fertilized with compost, which is prepared using household waste or leaves. The material is placed in a wooden box, covered with earth and periodically watered. Sometimes a special nutritious compost with worms (based on a mixture of kitchen waste and seaweed meal) is prepared for protected ground structures.

Other components are also used to prepare a plant base for greenhouse soil.:

• Chicken manure concentrate. It must be prepared a year before use, as chicken manure contains too much nitrogen;
• Green mass from medicinal herbs;
• A liquid solution of soot and wood ash is used for irrigation.

In addition, during operation, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil to improve the quality of seeds and fruits.

How to prepare the soil for various vegetables and fruits

When deciding how to arrange a polycarbonate greenhouse inside, you should pay attention not only to the location of the beds, but also to the soil that will be used for growing crops.

Note: It is better to use a special soil mixture that does not contain weed seeds and bacteria, and the soil itself is well ventilated and does not retain much moisture.

For large buildings, it is not economically profitable to buy special soil for each type of vegetable, so you can prepare the soil mixture yourself.

Recipes for preparing soil for different crops are as follows::

• For tomatoes and peppers take 1 part of rotted humus, forest or garden soil and sand. The composition is thoroughly mixed and sifted through a coarse sieve. To saturate the soil with nutrients, add 100 grams of chalk or eggshells and 100 grams of ash per bucket of the finished mixture. At the end of cooking, the mixture is steamed to kill bacteria.
• For cucumbers and zucchini take 3 parts humus, 4 parts loamy soil and 3 parts peat. You can also add sawdust to the mixture. Such soil turns out to be light and quite nutritious.

In one greenhouse it is better to grow crops with similar characteristics and requirements for soil conditions. But, if this is impossible, high partitions are installed between beds with different soils.

Preparing the southern wall

During the summer, too much sunlight enters the greenhouse. This can cause overheating and death of plants, so protected ground structures must be shaded.

Note: When arranging high-quality ventilation, shading may not be used, since the flows of warm and cool air are distributed evenly. The main sign that signals the need for shading is reddening of plant leaves.

There are several types of plant protection from excess light. You can apply paint, a special protective liquid, or attach a dense material to the transparent surface. Previously, for shading, glass was coated with lime or emulsion paint diluted with water. However, this method has one significant drawback: in the fall the coating must be removed with a brush, and this is a rather labor-intensive process.

Modern industry produces special liquids that are quickly and easily applied, are not washed off by rain, but at the same time they can be washed off without much difficulty in the fall. The only drawback is that on cloudy days the cover cannot be removed and the plants will lack light. That is why preference should be given to special materials that, if necessary, cover the transparent part on sunny days and open on cloudy days. Such devices are called external and internal shading screens. Options for shading materials are shown in Figure 6.

Blinds are used as internal screens. They roll up easily and protect plants from direct sunlight. External screens perform the same function, but also give plants additional protection from spring frosts.

Note: External screens are more convenient to use. When installing shutters inside a greenhouse, the temperature in the room will rise, and if ornamental plants with large leaves are grown in the building, the shutters may damage them.

To prevent external shading screens from being torn off by a gust of wind, they must be securely attached to the frame. It is best to give preference to products made of wooden or plastic slats located horizontally. They are quite durable, easy to install and remove, and allow some of the sunlight that plants need. In addition, regular burlap or other dense fabric can be used as a shading screen. In some cases, light-sensitive sensors are installed on external screens to automate the shading process.

Arrangement of beds in a 3 x 6 greenhouse

In a greenhouse measuring 3*6 meters, it is best to make two beds along the walls with a central passage between them. In this case, it is desirable that the width of the passage be 50 cm, so that it is convenient to move around the room with equipment.

In some cases, it is possible to place three small beds: one central and two side ones. This option reduces the usable area, but allows you to grow crops with different requirements for soil conditions.

Organization of space inside

The sun's rays penetrating into the building create a greenhouse effect. The air inside stagnates and becomes an ideal environment for the development of pathogens and pests. Therefore, it is important to equip the greenhouse with a ventilation system and devices to maintain humidity.

Note: When installing automatic ventilation systems, their operation must be coordinated with the operation of heating devices and shading devices.

To ventilate protected ground shelters, ventilation is most often used using open windows, vents and doors (Figure 7). Basic requirements for arrangement include:

• In order for enough air to get inside, the area of ​​windows and vents should be less than 20% of the total area of ​​the structure. Ventilation is very beneficial for plants, especially for seedlings that will later be transferred to open ground. About two weeks before transplantation, ventilation is carried out not only during the day, but also at night. However, you need to make sure that there are no drafts inside.
• It is best to place windows under the ceiling. The air, heating up, rises and exits through the open window. As a rule, for small greenhouses, two vents located on opposite sides of the roof are sufficient. But for large structures, ventilation holes must be installed every two meters, and if alpine plants are grown in the greenhouse, a continuous row of windows will be installed on both sides of the roof.
• To speed up ventilation, additionally install side vents located at the level of the shelving or slightly above ground level. They can be made ordinary, but it is better to install blinds that will allow air to pass through and disperse. The side openings are located on both sides so that during strong winds only those located on the leeward side can be opened.

When arranging ventilation, it is important to remember that for normal development plants need not only oxygen, but also carbon dioxide, which is formed in the soil and compost. In small rooms, the ventilation regime is often disrupted due to thermal energy savings. The best solution to this problem would be to install automatic ventilation systems. As a rule, they are installed in large industrial greenhouses, where opening and closing windows manually is difficult.

There are others heat ventilation methods c (Figure 8):

• Installation of fans allows for constant air circulation. It is important to select devices of suitable power depending on the size of the building. The smaller the fan, the higher above ground level it is located. For example, in small greenhouses they usually install only one fan, hanging it above the door.
• Ventilation pipes They draw fresh air in and send warm air out. It is recommended to make the southern side of the pipe from glass, and the internal parts from metal. This will improve the heating of the pipe and increase traction.

In small greenhouses, it is enough to equip a ventilation pipe, and if additional ventilation is necessary, simply open the front door (Figure 9). You can learn more about greenhouse ventilation from the video.

In addition to natural heating, additional heating devices are also used in closed ground structures.

Note: It is better to install several types of heating at once in order to maximize the use of the greenhouse.

Figure 10 shows a diagram that can be used to provide natural solar heating in a greenhouse. The type of heating devices is selected individually depending on the plants that will be grown. For example, tropical and potted crops require more intense heating than vegetables.

There are several types of heating:

1. Using a solar system: The device consists of a solar collector and a heat accumulator. The collector is a glass-covered box with a heating coil inside. An ordinary barrel with a layer of thermal insulation can serve as a heat accumulator. A radiator is installed next to the collector and battery, and all parts of the solar installation are connected to each other by insulated pipes.
2. Biofuel: Most often, manure is used for heating. As organic fertilizers decompose, they generate heat. Household compost, garbage or wood waste (bark, sawdust) can be used as biofuel. Biofuel can be burned in special stoves or placed on beds after removing the top layer of soil. After burning biofuel in the beds, the soil needs to be leveled and after a few days, when the ground has warmed up, you can start planting.
3. Water heating(Figure 11): a boiler is installed in the vestibule of the greenhouse, the water in which is heated with gas, electricity or solid fuel. When selecting a boiler, key attention should be paid to the power of the device, since the heating area will depend on it. Hot water from the boiler is distributed throughout the building through pipes located around the perimeter. They need to be equipped with regulators to reduce or increase the temperature in the building.
4. Gas heating: Such heating devices are distinguished by high technology and reliability. However, during the combustion process, natural gas emits too much carbon dioxide, so additional hoods are installed. In addition, heating a greenhouse with gas is expensive and is not always suitable for small farms.
5. in this case, a stove with a chimney is installed in the building. Despite the fact that ovens take up a lot of space, they are able to maintain a stable temperature for a long time. As a rule, stove heating is installed in the vestibule so as not to pollute the internal space of the protected ground structure with soot and smoke. Figure 12 shows drawings for installing stove heating with your own hands.

In addition, the greenhouse can be heated with electric heating devices: portable fans with an air heating function or static units. In this case, it is necessary to equip the building with a fan to circulate heated air.

Operating a greenhouse in spring and fall can be quite successful with natural light, but when the days become cloudier, especially in winter, additional lighting fixtures need to be installed.

In addition, each crop needs a certain lighting intensity. The most light-loving plants are tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce and peppers. Green crops, onions and biennial plants are less demanding of light. Plant growth is negatively affected by both too little and too much sun.

To enhance natural lighting, a blank wall can be painted a light color or covered with reflective material. To reduce light, the building is usually shaded.

An important condition for growing plants is maintaining an optimal level of humidity. To determine its level, special devices, hygrographs or psychrometers, which you can make yourself, are hung in the building. To do this, you need two thermometers and a special table that provides data for determining the humidity level. Examples for making a psychrometer are shown in Figure 13.

Two thermometers are placed side by side on one board. The ball of one of them should be dry, and the second should be constantly wet. To do this, simply wrap the thermometer in gauze and place it in a container of boiled water. Every 10 minutes, instrument readings are recorded and compared using a table. For example, if the temperature difference is 4 degrees, then the humidity corresponds to 57%. Also, using the difference in indicators, you can determine the probability of frost.

In order for a door or window to open automatically, a special device is installed - a “door pump”. It does not consume electricity, but you need to select the device according to the weight and design of the door or window, since if the pump is weak, the door may jam (Figure 14).

The door pump operates based on the hydraulic cylinder principle. A special wax is poured into the working body (pipe) of the device, which expands when heated and opens the frame. When the temperature drops, the wax cools, decreases in volume and the door closes. Sometimes gas (for example, freon) is used for these purposes.

A thermal drive can be used as an automatic ventilation system. This is a device consisting of two plates that have different coefficients of linear expansion (for example, plexiglass and metal). The plates are held together at a certain temperature, and when it gets too hot or cold inside, the plates bend in a certain direction. Examples of drawings for manufacturing a thermal drive are shown in Figure 15.

Note: If you visit the greenhouse site only on weekends, it makes sense to install an automatic temperature control device in the building. The device is a regulator consisting of a sector body, a rotary valve, an inspection cover and a pusher link. An old soccer ball camera is attached to the sector body (tank) and connected to the tank with a regular rubber hose.

An air tank is installed in the building. When the temperature inside exceeds 25 degrees, the air in the tank expands and fills the chamber. When filled, it activates the valve and push link, which opens the window. When the temperature drops, the reverse process occurs and the transom closes under its own weight. Since such a device is mechanical, it does not require special care for successful operation and operates completely autonomously. From the video you will learn how to make an automatic window lifter for a greenhouse with your own hands.

When installing wiring for lighting or heating a greenhouse, extreme care must be taken due to the high humidity inside the building.

Note: If the greenhouse is a separate building, the cable from it is taken out, and if it is attached to the house, the electrical wiring is connected to a common power supply system.

The wires inside can be laid underground or pulled from above using poles. If the electrical wiring will be laid underground, you need to choose areas where excavation work will not be carried out. Otherwise, the cable may be damaged. In addition, the wiring must be insulated with pieces of tiles or wooden planks.

The average trench depth for laying cables is 0.75 m, but if the wires will pass under paths or lawns where excavation is not being carried out, the depth can be reduced. Under no circumstances should trenches intersect with drainage channels.

Note: After laying the electrical wiring, be sure to draw up a plan and indicate the location and depth of the trenches. In the future, this will help not to touch the wiring if you decide to redevelop the site.

If the electrical wiring cable will be carried through the air, you need to dig strong poles into the ground and attach the wires to thick wire. It is advisable to lay them so that tree branches do not touch the wires and damage them. Additionally, you need to install a control panel with separate sockets, fuses or switches. Connecting electrical appliances is carried out in the usual way, but it is better to choose rubber plugs rather than plastic ones.

After the installation of electricity, the possibilities for improving the lighting and heating of the building are significantly expanded. For artificial lighting, it is better to use fluorescent or regular lamps, as they are resistant to high humidity (Figure 16).

Note: The best are considered to be fluorescent lamps, the light of which is close to daylight, and during operation they do not heat the air and cannot cause burns to plants.

Conventional incandescent lamps are placed at some distance from the plants. But this can cause the stems to stretch. In addition, such lamps consume a lot of energy and quickly fail.

Photosynthetic and ultraviolet lamps can be used as an additional light source. They not only accelerate the growth of crops, but also destroy insect pests. For example, to speed up the growth of seedlings in the spring, you can hang frames with several rows of lamps above the racks. In addition, reflective screens can be hung on the walls, and boxes and glasses with seedlings should be periodically rotated so that the stems do not bend or stretch.

Watering plants in greenhouses is carried out in a special way, since insufficient or excessive moisture can lead to the death of plants. For example, crops in pots are watered, filling the entire space between the soil and the top of the pot with water. This is the only way to moisturize the entire root system.

The intensity of watering depends on many indicators: season, type of plant and soil. For example, large crops with branched roots are watered up to twice a day in summer, and only 1-2 times a week in winter and in a state of vegetative dormancy.

You can determine the lack of moisture by looking at the lower leaves. If the plant does not have enough water, they droop. In addition, dry soil is paler in color than wet soil. But if plastic pots are used for growing, the soil may be dry on top and wet inside, so you need to periodically probe the soil with your finger. If peat serves as the basis for the earthen mixture, when it dries out, the soil begins to lag behind the edges of the pot. After watering, the soil will expand and fill the empty space.

To water the beds, use a watering can or hose with a sprinkler. Thanks to this, the water is distributed evenly, and the lower leaves are not covered with a layer of dried earth. When watering the beds, you need to accurately determine whether the soil is evenly moistened. To do this, you need to dig a hole 15 cm deep, and if the soil in it is dry, continue watering.

In large greenhouses, watering is usually automated. For crops grown in pots, a capillary system is installed. A film is placed at the bottom of the rack, covered with a layer of sand and regularly moistened using an automatic device (an inverted bottle attached to a holder). Pots are placed on top of the sand so that the drainage holes are completely immersed in the sand.

But the most common is the drip irrigation system. In this case, water is supplied through pipes, and watering is carried out using special holes located near each bush or pot. Timers are sometimes installed on such a system so that watering turns on automatically at a certain time (Figure 17).

Note: When using drip irrigation, plants need to be inspected periodically. the fact is that such a system introduces moisture regardless of the individual needs of the crops, so some of them may be moistened too much.

To prevent plants from dying, they must be periodically watered by hand if drip irrigation does not provide the necessary moisture, or temporarily disconnected from the system if the soil is too moist. The author of the video will tell you how to properly organize drip irrigation in a greenhouse.

Selecting material for shelving

Shelf-type greenhouses are more suitable for growing seedlings or seedlings. In such a room, the entire internal space is occupied by racks and shelves.

When choosing a material, you should take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of each type:

• Tree- an organic material that has a beneficial effect on the growth of crops and has good thermal insulation. Since wood rots quickly in conditions of high humidity, it must be treated with antiseptics and periodically tinted during use.
• Metal is considered a more durable material for building shelving. In addition, it is much lighter than wood, and the finished structure can be easily disassembled and reassembled.

It is best to use structures made of aluminum: it is lightweight, durable and does not deteriorate when exposed to moisture.

Installation of shelving

There is no strict size of shelving for a greenhouse, since each owner creates structures according to his own height and height of the greenhouse. The width of the racks depends on the zone in which they will be located: in the center or on the sides.

There are certain requirements for the construction and installation of shelving(Figure 18):

• The width of the central structures should not exceed one and a half meters;
• Wall racks are no more than 90 cm wide;
• The increased width of the racks makes them inconvenient to use, since it will be difficult for a person to reach distant plants.

A passage up to half a meter wide must be left between the racks so that you can freely walk along it with equipment or drive a wheelbarrow.

Construction of a quarantine zone

Arranging a quarantine zone is another important condition for the proper distribution of space inside the greenhouse.

A quarantine zone is necessary to protect crops from diseases and pests. It contains boxes and pots with new plants that were purchased in stores or other farms. New plants are transferred to the quarantine zone, and if after 10-14 days signs of disease or pest damage do not appear, the crop is transferred to the rest of the plants.

The quarantine zone may be small. The optimal size is considered to be sufficient to accommodate 4 pots of seedlings. It is advisable to enclose the area with glass, for example, install an old aquarium with a tight lid on one of the shelves.

Proper division of space

When planning the division of space in a greenhouse, calculate in advance the number of crops and beds, the need for the location of equipment (heating systems, drip irrigation, etc.), and also provide space for equipment.

If crops with different requirements for temperature and humidity conditions will be grown in the same greenhouse, the internal space is divided with plastic film, glass or a piece of polycarbonate. A similar division is practiced when growing cucumbers and tomatoes at the same time.

Arrangement of the adjacent vestibule

It is advisable to build a vestibule near the entrance to the greenhouse for several reasons. Firstly, this room can be used to store equipment. Secondly, the air gap in the vestibule will create the necessary smooth transition between warm air inside the greenhouse and cool air outside.

In the vestibule you can put a cabinet or rack for storing fertilizers, fertilizers and chemicals. To prevent pets from getting inside, it is better to lock the cabinet with a key.

The long-awaited greenhouse has taken pride of place on your site, but it’s too early to relax. This is only the first step towards obtaining a high yield of agricultural crops. The next step is to properly arrange the inside of the greenhouse. The solution to the problem includes several points: from planning the beds to organizing the optimal temperature regime. The direction of work largely depends on the form of operation of the structure, whether vegetables will be grown there or the purpose of the greenhouse is to grow plants in pots, seedlings, and ornamental shrubs.

Design of greenhouse space for ground work

Giving preference to working with soil, it is right to start with designing the location of the beds. It is necessary to take into account their size and quantity, what crops are planned to be cultivated.

Marking beds

The number and size of rows directly depends on the area of ​​the greenhouse. It is better to equip small buildings with two parallel beds; wide structures allow you to divide three rows. The width of one bed should be properly arranged in the range from 1.0 to 1.5 meters. It all depends on the physical characteristics of the owner of the greenhouse and the location of the passages near it. The main guideline is the ability to care for plants without stepping on the soil. An excessively wide bed will inevitably force the amateur agronomist to stand on the ground, this is fraught with negative consequences:

• soil compaction provokes a lack of oxygen in the root system of plants due to deterioration of air circulation;
• the amount of work to care for plants increases due to the need for unscheduled loosening.

Designing a small greenhouse makes it possible to arrange one path between two rows of plants. Correctly calculating the width of the passage will allow taking into account all the needs for caring for agricultural products. During the growing process, it becomes necessary to carry buckets of fertilizers, remove weeds, remove crops, and at the same time not damage your land. Based on the experience of greenhouse owners, it is correct to arrange the minimum width of paths within half a meter. The desire to drive with a wheelbarrow will require an increase of another 20-30 cm. Of course, you can expand the passage up to a meter, but the use of usable space will be sharply reduced.

The spacious greenhouse allows you to arrange three rows of beds. The side strips should be correctly designed to be one meter wide, the central row reaches one and a half meters, since a two-way approach is provided to it. It is irrational to design paths of the same width; it is more correct to arrange one passage wide - for moving with a wheelbarrow, for the second the standard 50 cm will be enough.

Advice ! For ease of movement in the greenhouse, depending on the total length of the structure, properly arrange one or two transverse passages along the central bed. This function can be performed by ordinary flooring in the form of two boards or several bricks.

The geodesic greenhouse has a rather unusual shape. Place the beds inside under the dome correctly along the perimeter, their width reaches 1.2 m. In the center of the greenhouse you can install a reservoir of water that accumulates the energy of the sun's rays during the day and releases heat at night. If there are no technical capabilities or a modest budget, the container inside the greenhouse will successfully replace an ordinary round bed.

Path design

Considering the question of how to properly arrange the inside of a greenhouse, we will separately dwell on the design of the paths. It is impractical to leave the passage between the beds in its original form. Regular watering of plants allows moisture to seep throughout the entire area of ​​the greenhouse, and walking on soggy ground is extremely inconvenient. When choosing covering options, take into account the high humidity in the room, so properly equip the passages with material that ensures safe movement. Bricks or other stone products are organically suitable for these purposes. In addition to their aesthetic appearance, they are easy to clean and facilitate convenient movement.

Preparing the soil layer

It is impossible to equip the inside of a greenhouse correctly without high-quality soil. The soil requirements include the following:

• lightweight structure providing good ventilation;
• absence of harmful bacteria and weed seeds;
• saturation with useful substances;
• ability to absorb moisture at a high level;
• frost resistance.

Advice ! Raised beds can protect the root system of seedlings from frost in a greenhouse.

Experts recommend arranging a planting site with a minimum height of 20 cm from the ground surface. To do this, a board fence is installed along the edges of the passages, exceeding the planned planting level by 5-10 cm. It will serve as borders, prevent soil from crumbling and facilitate the work of caring for plants. The boards are installed edgewise and pegs are used to secure them. Correctly nail the board border to the support or install stakes on both sides of the fence. Finally, the surface is filled with soil that meets all the soil requirements intended for greenhouses. Agricultural crops require different soil compositions, so it is wise to purchase an option designed for a specific plant family or prepare the soil yourself.

If there is swampy or rocky soil, arrange the beds inside the greenhouse correctly in boxes. Their dimensions are similar to traditional rows: width 1.0-1.5 m, length varies depending on the area of ​​the greenhouse, height of the structure - 40 cm. They are filled with specially prepared or purchased soil. The key advantage of the method is rapid heating of the soil; among the disadvantages, there is an increased water consumption for irrigation.

Shelving configuration and arrangement

Greenhouse owners who prefer to breed seedlings or grow seedlings are recommended to equip the structure with shelving. This option allows you to make the most of the usable space with all sorts of shelf variations. The lower space can be conveniently equipped for storing household equipment. If your priority area of ​​work is growing indoor flowers and other plants in pots, properly arrange shelves with low sides. This will facilitate the process of supplying tubes for capillary irrigation. High sides will be required for rooting cuttings and planting seedlings.

Properly selected shelving sizes can ensure ease of work inside the greenhouse. The optimal width of the side shelves does not exceed 95 cm; the central structures can be arranged up to one and a half meters. The height of the racks directly depends on the height of the person involved in growing greenhouse crops. The height of the work surfaces in the kitchen will help you orient yourself correctly. At this level, it is better to arrange a shelf intended for the main area of ​​work on transplanting and picking plants. The number of passages inside the greenhouse depends on its size; their optimal width ranges from 40 to 70 cm. It is also worth taking into account the physical parameters of the greenhouse owner. To germinate seeds, properly arrange an area in one of the corners of the greenhouse, equipping it with lighting and insulating it with glass.

When breeding indoor plants inside a greenhouse, you should worry about organizing a quarantine zone. Purchasing a new plant carries the risk of introducing pests. A small area on the shelf, fenced with glass, will prevent the spread of unwanted microorganisms. An aquarium with a capacity of 100 liters with a tight-fitting lid is optimal for these purposes. Arrange it correctly in a shaded area, protecting plants from overheating.

Note! Quarantined crops require regular ventilation. It is better to carry out the procedure in the fresh air, eliminating the possibility of contamination of the soil inside the greenhouse.

Arrangement of the vestibule

Experts offer the option of modernizing a greenhouse using a vestibule. It performs two functions. First of all, it creates an air gap between the street and greenhouse air, preventing the formation of drafts. The second purpose is to create space for storing equipment. An old cabinet that can be locked with a key will make it possible to isolate all kinds of fertilizers and fertilizers from children or pets. And the appearance inside the greenhouse will not be spoiled by household equipment. If there is no desire to arrange a vestibule, install the cabinet correctly at the beginning of the greenhouse, reducing the time for collecting tools throughout the room.

Are you happy that your beloved husband finally built a greenhouse (or installed a ready-made one)? Wait. A beautiful cap does not mean that the plants under it will “overwhelm” you with an unprecedented harvest. To do this, a lot still needs to be done inside the structure: create an optimal regime, correctly position the beds, “prepare” the soil, etc. In a word, arrange the inside of the greenhouse. And this is what you and I will do.

How to arrange a polycarbonate greenhouse inside? The arrangement of the interior space will depend on how the owner plans to use her greenhouse: to lay out beds and grow vegetables, or to put up shelving and grow seedlings, potted plants, ornamental shrubs, etc. Based on this, greenhouse structures are divided into ground and shelved. Let's look at how to arrange a greenhouse of one and two types inside.

Organization of space in soil-type greenhouses

In a ground greenhouse, the first step is to plan the beds: how many there will be, what size they will be and what you plan to grow.

Laying out the beds

Based on the size of the greenhouse, you can divide the land into 2-3 beds. The maximum width of one bed is 1.2 m. With this width it is convenient to care for plants while standing on the path. If the bed is wider, then in order to reach distant plants, you will be forced to step on the soil, thereby compacting it. And neither you (you will have to move the soil more often) nor the plants need compaction (air circulation in the soil layer worsens, and the roots lack oxygen). Therefore, plan the bed based on your own height: if you can reach a meter radius with a hoe, make the bed one meter long. If you reach less, do less.

The central bed is always wider than the side ones, because it can be looked after from both aisles

In small greenhouses, two beds are built along the length of the structure, and a path is left in the middle. The minimum width of the path is half a meter. This is enough to transport crops and weeds in a wheelbarrow, carry water in buckets without clinging to the plants. You can, of course, make a meter-long one, but then a lot of useful space will disappear. Try not to go beyond 50-70 cm.

If width allows, divide the space into three beds. At the same time, maintain the proportions: near the walls of the greenhouse, the beds should not be more than a meter wide, and the central one can be made one and a half meters wide. There will be passages on both sides of it, so you can reach the plants in any case. The passages can be made identical, half a meter each, but then a whole meter of space is “wasted.” If you make it narrow, you won’t be able to squeeze through with a wheelbarrow. Make a compromise: make one passage (closer to the exit) large, and the second narrow, only for walking. To make it convenient to transfer weeds to the wheelbarrow from any corner, make 1-2 transverse passes in the central bed. To do this, place a board or a couple of bricks directly on the soil.

Selecting track surfaces

A convenient arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse inside is impossible without creating reliable passages. An increased level of humidity affects the paths: drops of moisture will make them slippery. And if you leave the passages earthen, then when watering there will be puddles on them, which is also inconvenient. Therefore, paths in a polycarbonate greenhouse must have a coating that will not slip even when wet. b. For example, a convenient option would be brick, cut into pieces and laid flat.

Paths can be laid with boards, as this material does not slip when wet

Creating a soil layer

If you have already decided on a greenhouse, then the beds must be created in such a way that the soil is excellent, the water does not stand, and frost cannot reach the seedlings through the ground. Only raised beds have these qualities, the minimum height of which from the surface of the earth is 20 cm. How to make them?

On the sides of the paths it is necessary to make a fence of boards, the width of which is 25 cm. It will serve as a border for the soil, will not allow it to crumble, and it is more convenient to care for the raised bed. The boards are placed on edge, pegs are driven in nearby, which will hold the curb in a vertical position, preventing it from moving under the pressure of the bulk earth. You can nail the boards to the support, or you can drive pegs on both sides of the board.

Boards on the sides of the bed will create a border and prevent the soil from crumbling

Now all that remains is to fill the bed with soil. Light greenhouses are suitable for greenhouses, with good soil ventilation, which do not contain weed seeds and harmful bacteria, but contain a lot of useful substances. The most convenient option would be purchased soil. You will immediately buy it for the type of vegetables that will sit in the garden. If this option is expensive, prepare the soil yourself, deciding in advance which vegetable will grow where. For different types of plants, the soil mixture should be different.

Soil for tomatoes and peppers

It is prepared in the following proportion: 1 part of rotted humus + 1 part of high-quality garden or forest soil + 1 part of sand. This composition must be mixed and then sifted using a sieve with cells of about 8 mm. Add 100 g of ordinary chalk (which is used at school) or crushed egg shells (also 100 g) to each bucket of prepared soil. 100 g of ash is poured into the same bucket.

After mixing the composition, be sure to steam it to destroy everything unnecessary (weeds, microbes). To do this, place a herring jar with many holes in it upside down in an iron bucket and pour 2 liters. water. Fill the bucket to the top with the prepared mixture and put it on the fire. Let it steam for about an hour and a half. Then pour the prepared soil into some container to cool and fill in the next part. This way you can prepare soil for the entire bed, but it is better to do this in advance, because a large greenhouse requires a lot of soil.

Photo of a polycarbonate greenhouse inside

Soil for cucumbers and zucchini

Soil for cucumbers can be prepared as follows:

• Option 1: 4 hours of humus + 6 hours of loamy soil;
• Option 2: 3 parts humus + 3 parts peat + 4 parts loamy soil;
• Option 3: 2 parts humus + 1 part peat + 4 parts loamy soil + 1 part sawdust

It is advisable to steam the finished mixture as described above.

It is better to grow vegetables of the same family in greenhouses, because they require similar conditions for their care. If you plant cucumbers and tomatoes together, then in different parts of the greenhouse and create an insulating partition in the middle.

The soil is poured onto the beds in a layer of about 25 cm so that it gradually settles to 20 cm.

Organization of space inside a rack greenhouse

For summer residents who plan to grow seedlings or seedlings, a rack-type design is suitable. Such a greenhouse is equipped to the maximum inside; all possible free space in several rows is occupied by shelves and racks. It is convenient to place household equipment under multi-story structures. If the owner is engaged in growing potted plants and indoor flowers, then it is better to create racks with low sides (it is easier to install capillary irrigation tubes to them). For picking seedlings or rooting cuttings, high sides are needed.

We place the racks correctly

In the photo of the greenhouse inside you can see examples of different shelving arrangements. This is because each owner adjusts their height to his own height. Therefore, the general rule for shelving structures is only the width: it should not exceed 95 cm if it is located against the wall, and 1.5 m if it is in the center. Shelves of greater width are inconvenient, since you cannot reach the outer plants.

Select the height this way: measure the height of the work surfaces in the kitchen. If you are comfortable cooking food at such a height, then it will also be okay to tinker with plants. The greenhouse can have shelves at a different height, because the space up to the ceiling allows you to place several rows. But the row where you will move the plants, replant, etc. must correspond to your height, otherwise back problems will not be avoided.

There can be 1 or 2 passages. The width depends on whether you will walk in the greenhouse with a wheelbarrow or not. For walking, 40 cm is enough, for a wheelbarrow - at least half a meter.

To germinate seeds, a small area with lighting is equipped in one corner and insulated with glass.

Seedlings are placed in one corner and additional lighting is installed

Construction of a quarantine zone

In shelved greenhouses, it is worth setting aside space for plants that you will isolate from the rest for a while. This is especially true for indoor plants. The purchased “newbie” is not placed with everyone else, because there is no guarantee that the plant is not sick or the soil is not contaminated with pest eggs. Therefore, it is necessary to wait a certain period of time after placing the flower in the quarantine zone. This should be a small area on a shelf that can accommodate 1-2 potted plants, fenced on all sides with glass. An ordinary 100 liter aquarium is very convenient for this purpose. Be sure to place it in the most shaded area so that the plants do not burn from the heat. The top of the aquarium should be tightly closed with a lid. Sometimes you will have to ventilate the quarantine zone. At this time, it is better to remove the aquarium from the greenhouse to eliminate the possibility of infection.

After a couple of weeks, the pot is taken out and placed on a common rack.

Arrangement of the vestibule

If you attach a small vestibule to the greenhouse, it will act as an air gap between the air from the street and the greenhouse air, and the place where equipment is stored. Place a cabinet there that can be locked with a key, and hide liquid fertilizers, preparations for exterminating pests, etc. This way you isolate harmful “chemicals” from children and pets. The cabinet can also be placed under the shelves if a vestibule is not provided.

The vestibule will save space in the greenhouse for storing equipment and chemicals

Now that you have properly arranged the interior space of the greenhouse, move in the “tenants” and expect excellent harvests!