How to set up a canon SLR camera. New SLR camera - first settings

Both experts and photographers unanimously agreed that each of the following 44 advice plays an important role in honing skills.

So arm yourself with new knowledge about using your settings. digital cameras to reach new heights.

Let's imagine a situation in which you suddenly see interesting picture, and you want to capture it. You pull the trigger and are disappointed. Because the frame was shot with an inappropriate ISO value, etc. The moment was missed. You can avoid this if you check and reset your settings every time. camera before moving from one shoot to the next. Select settings according to your shooting conditions.

Please format the memory card before taking photographs. Quick formatting does not erase images. Pre-formatting the memory card minimizes the risk of any data corruption.

The firmware in the camera is software for image processing, customizing a range of parameters and even controlling the functions available to you. Check your camera manufacturer's website to find out how your camera can be updated with the latest software.

Do not blindly rely on the fact that the battery in your camera is fully charged. Charge it and make sure it has enough power if you plan to shoot for a long time. And if you prefer to take a lot of photographs, then it would be best for you to purchase a spare battery.

In most cases, the camera defaults to shooting with high resolution no matter what you photograph. But do you always need this? Sometimes a small image is all you need. After all, reducing the resolution not only means that more photos will fit on the memory card. In this case, you can also increase the shooting speed. If you enjoy sports photography, lowering the resolution will help you avoid lag while your camera clears its buffer.

If you are going to edit the footage or do retouching, then it will be more suitable format RAW thanks to its increased capacity. But files in RAW format are large, so the camera will need more time to work with them. In addition, you will not be able to print them without pre-processing.

If shooting speed doesn’t play an important role for you, then it’s difficult to decide. Why not use both formats at the same time? Most digital cameras provide this option. And only when the images are on your computer, decide on the format. The main thing is not to forget about an additional memory card.

When professional photographers are not busy shooting on target, they spend a lot of time experimenting. This could be testing a lens to determine the best aperture or focal length for it. Plus checking ISO and white balance to see which options give the most top scores, or even dynamic range testing to stay informed about the sensor's capabilities.
You can do the same thing with your camera to know exactly where its strengths and weak sides. This is not a search for the perfect shot, but an experiment with equipment to learn about its potential and try out new techniques that will be useful in future shooting.

A good tripod is worth its weight in gold, so don't skimp on your budget on this point. It's better to buy a quality tripod that will last you for a long time. This is a long term investment. And don't forget to take it with you when you go shooting.

The very act of mounting your camera on a tripod can slow you down. While this will help you concentrate on what you're photographing, keeping your camera fixed can take away the spontaneity of your photos. We come to the conclusion that it is best to mix both of these techniques, using them interchangeably. If you use a tripod religiously, try taking shots without using one. Also, if you usually work without a tripod, bring one with you to see the difference in photography results.

Tips #10: Makeshift Camera Support

You don't need to use a tripod to keep your camera stable. Be creative. You can use a wall or tree as support, or even a bag of rice as a platform. All this will help to avoid camera shake.

The horizon line in the photograph should look strictly horizontal, without tilting. If your digital camera has a digital horizon level, use it. This will help you save time editing your photos later in Photoshop. Many DSLRs have an assist grid that can be activated. It is superimposed on the live image and visible on the camera's LCD screen. Focus on it. The horizon must coincide with the horizontal grid line. Alternatively, use the AF points in the center of the viewfinder to do the same.

This may seem obvious, but double-check your camera bag if you'll be taking photos away from home. It may contain a camera, lenses, a tripod and accessories. Don't forget the adapter ring if you are using screen filters and the like. Forgotten small detail is more likely to derail your trip than the core pieces of your kit.

Don't overly rely on your camera's autofocus. In some situations, manual focusing is much better. For example, to photograph a fast-moving subject on a race track or to focus on detail during macro photography.

DSLR digital compacts can have a dizzying number of AF points. But for most shots you only need one - the center one. Place it behind your subject, press the shutter button halfway to lock focus, and then simply recompose your shot.

A bad lens will always be a bad lens, no matter what camera you put it on. Therefore, before you decide to change your camera, thinking that you have outgrown it, think about purchasing a new lens. This may turn out to be a good solution. A few extra pixels and clever settings in a new camera can be tempting. But most likely, the maximum aperture or more will suit you better. high quality optics to improve the quality of pictures using your existing camera.

There are thousands of lenses left over from the days of 35mm film. Many DSLRs are "backwards compatible" with them (especially Nikon and Pentax). They can still have applications in this digital age. Plus, they're so affordable that they provide a great opportunity to expand your focal length arsenal. But there is also back side. Some lenses work better than others, and the only one real way to weed out the good ones from the not so good ones is to test them in action. In general, zoom lenses, as well as those with wide-angle focal lengths, tend to perform worse. In addition, there is a need for manual focusing. In-camera exposure metering can be unpredictable and unreliable. However, there are a few manual focus lenses that can actually outperform today's inexpensive zoom lenses in terms of sharpness.

Wide-angle lenses can create the impression of increased distance between near and far elements, while a telephoto lens visually brings the subject closer and compresses the perspective. Use focal length situationally. Consider the distance of the subject of photography.

If you want to increase the depth of field in the frame at a given focal length, then select manual focus hyperfocal distance (HFD) cameras. This will ensure maximum image sharpness from half the focal length to infinity.

Most viewfinders don't give you 100% coverage, so it's easy for unwanted elements to fall into the frame. The only way to avoid this is to simply check the camera's LCD screen after a test shot. If there is nothing superfluous in the frame, change the composition and photograph again.

Even when shooting static subjects, use continuous burst mode. Subtle changes in lighting, such as when photographing a landscape with floating clouds. Or when shooting a portrait, when a change in facial expression is noticeable. These are examples of shots where "great moments" happen that might be missed if you took a single shot. So shoot a lot and then choose the best shots.

Serious photographers are skeptical about this. But we urge you not to completely ignore your camera's exposure modes. Especially for the paparazzi. For example, Landscape mode tends to set the light aperture to be small and increase the saturation. And Portrait mode combines a wide aperture with more subdued colors. Both can be used outside of them direct use. The main thing is to understand the given parameters and use them creatively.

Don't underestimate your camera's mode (P). Its choice allows effective determination of the most suitable value aperture and shutter speed for correct exposure of the frame in automatic mode. If you need a wide aperture, just "go" to the program to get it. Want a slower shutter speed? Twist in the opposite direction.

In a nutshell, the aperture controls the depth of field of the image, and the shutter speed controls the shutter speed, that is, the shooting speed. Not sure which shooting mode to choose? Decide which of these two elements you want to maintain the most control over while shooting. This will be your decision.

If you don't know what the dynamic range of your camera sensor is, you won't be able to tell when a scene will exceed it. This way you will lose highlights or shadowed details. There are many ways to measure dynamic range. DxO Labs has tested many digital cameras. You can always use their data as a guide. Visit www.dxomark.com to find out the range limits of your camera.

You can adjust the exposure of the image in the editing program. But an underexposed shot will magnify any noise, while an overexposed shot is largely impossible to recover. When in doubt, use bracketing. You will receive three frames with different values ​​of the given parameter, one of which is correctly exposed. Use this feature even if you choose to shoot in RAW format.

Don't rely literally on the image histogram on your camera's LCD monitor. In bright light, images will appear darker than they actually are. And when you look at the screen at night, you'll see a brighter image, even if it's slightly underexposed. Therefore, it is necessary to learn how to read a histogram correctly. It is the only way to accurately assess the overall level of image brightness and allows you to assess the need for correction of shooting parameters. If the histogram hits the right end of the scale, consider reducing the impact and shoot again.

It is much easier to restore image detail in the shadowed areas of a photo than in the highlighted areas. Therefore, when there is a significant level of contrast, maintain a high level of detail in the bright areas.

Matrix (evaluative, multi-zone) camera metering measures the light level of a scene. Spot metering is also extremely useful. This matters when you're shooting mostly bright or dark scenes. You can use it to select a mid tone, for example when shooting sidewalk or grass.

The camera's spot metering will allow you to get accurate meter readings to determine the contrast in a scene. Select one point from the brightest area and another from the darkest area. Determine the range between them. If it exceeds the dynamic range of the camera, you will have to resort to some clipping such as shadows, highlights. Or consider shooting for HDR (High Dynamic Range).

To determine the exposure range for HDR images, you need to take meter readings from the darkest and brightest areas of the scene. Then set your camera to aperture priority mode. Switch to manual aperture mode and use your readings as the starting and ending points for successive HDR images. Stop the shutter speed for a while until you have covered the exposure range. The effects can be combined into programs such as Photomatix.

Tip #31: Use ND Filters to Balance Exposure

For landscape shots, use a Neutral Density (ND) filter to balance the exposure between the sky and the ground. It's best to have an assortment of NDs in varying shade levels to be prepared for different conditions. Also, take two photos - one for the sky and one for the foreground. Then mix them in your editing software.

Tip #32: Using an ND Filter to Expand Exposure

ND (Neutral Density) filters are quite dark. If you want to extend your shutter speed, they can become a challenge to control your aperture. A three-stop ND filter will allow you to open the aperture three stops to get a shallow depth of field. Moreover, even in bright lighting conditions.

The effect of a polarizing filter cannot be recreated digitally. This makes it a must-have choice for outdoor photographers looking to soften or enhance blue sky reflections. Don't skimp on price or you'll have to skimp on quality.

Tip #34: Is it black and white in camera or on computer?

Unless you know for sure that you want to print black and white images from a memory card, it is better to shoot in color. You can then convert the photos using image editing software. It will give more possibilities than your camera. If you decide to shoot black and white JPEG images, don't forget about the filter. Red, orange and yellow filters can add drama to a dull sky. And the orange filter will reduce the appearance of freckles and blemishes in portraits.

Since JPEG files are processed in-camera during shooting, it is preferable to use a preset balance for them white. Choose from the camera's provided options (daylight, shade, tungsten, etc.) rather than relying on the automatic option. Although automatic white balance is considered to some extent "basic". If you shoot in RAW files, you can afford to adjust the white balance when processing your images.

If you shoot in JPEG format and your camera allows it, try activating white balance bracketing. JPEG files take up minimal space on your memory card, and this can save you hours of correcting unwanted colors.

Intentionally setting the white balance incorrectly can give images an overall blue tint. This is if you are shooting in daylight with white balance in tungsten mode. But if you shoot under a tungsten lamp with white balance in daylight mode, you will end up with a warm orange tint. When shooting sunsets, auto white balance may try to change the overall warm tone, even though that's exactly what you're trying to capture. In this case, trick your camera and set the white balance to cloudy, which is designed to warm up a cool scene.

If you want the colors in your photos to be consistent from shot to shot, set the color as the target in the first frame of the sequence. When it comes to processing, set the gray (or black and white) points using the target landmark frame and your software will match the subsequent series of images.

Fill flash is great for lifting shadows and can also help create dramatic images. Use the camera's exposure compensation to reduce the overall exposure by half a stop, then increase the exposure compensation by +1/2 to balance it out. Some cameras allow you to adjust the exposure for ambient light without affecting the flash exposure, in which case you won't need to dial +1/2 for the flash. The result is a frame dominated by a well-lit subject that stands out against a slightly darkened background.

Like flash, an external flash built into the camera has a qualitative effect on images. Especially if you use a dedicated flash that can be controlled and reflectors to reduce harsh shadows.

Use a significantly shorter flash duration than the shutter time, which will freeze high-velocity events. The simplest thing to start with is drops of water. And all you need for this is a dark room, a flash, and a lot of patience. Try this and you will get mesmerizing water drop images. And these are just the first steps in shooting with high-speed flash.

Video shooting using a SLR camera equipped with a CMOS sensor is accompanied by a rolling shutter. It may cause some specific phenomena when shooting video. The rolling shutter exposes each video frame in a specific sequence, starting at the top and working down. This is similar to how a scanner scans a document. If the camera is immobilized at this time, then there is no problem. But if you shoot panoramic shots, especially horizontally, the vertical lines may become distorted. Holding the camera in your hands and using a telephoto lens can enhance the effect. So use a tripod and/or a wider angle lens. Cameras with CCD sensors don't have this effect because they use a "global shutter" that renders each frame in its entirety, just like taking photographs.

Majority SLR cameras, which allow you to shoot video, offer a wide range of frame rates. By the way, in the UK the standard frame rate is 25 frames per second (FPS). This is the speed you can consider as the “standard” speed for your video if you are going to show it on a TV screen. However, if your camera allows it, you can increase the video shooting speed up to 50fps. This way you will create Effect slow movement, when the video will play at 25 frames per second. It will look spectacular at half speed because every second piece of footage will play on the screen for two seconds longer. The standard level for the film is 24fps. While a difference of one frame per second doesn't seem significant, it's enough to give your footage a real cinematic look.

So much has been said about the fine particles of dust that can get on a camera sensor and cause defects in the image that many photographers are paranoid about changing lenses. But this is one of the main advantages of DSLR photography! There are a few simple precautions you should follow. Always turn off the camera when changing lenses. This will eliminate any static charge from the sensor that could attract dust particles. Protect the camera from wind and weather and make sure you have interchangeable lens, ready for installation. And keep the camera lens opening facing down. This will minimize the risk of foreign particles entering when changing lenses.

In contact with

Many of our readers have already purchased or are about to purchase reflex camera. It’s so cool to take high-quality photographs, almost like those of professionals. But in order to learn how to take such pictures, you need to know how to set up a SLR camera. This article will help “dummies” in this not entirely simple matter.

Some "dummies" prefer a simple one - automatic (automatic photography), but from now on we will forget about this function, since the automatic can take away your idea.

Remember, 95% of all great photos are taken in just two shooting modes. I’ll talk about these modes in this one and continue in this article -.

Setting up your DSLR for Dummies

On a sunny day, I decided to take a photo of a cherry blossom branch. The camera was set to automatic mode (as many would do) and ended up taking a photo like this:

It's all because of the automatic mode. He himself chooses which parameters to set. In this photo, the machine closed the aperture to F|16. The machine also increased the ISO to 1000 units, and this on a bright, sunny day.

Important: On a bright day, always useISO no more than 400 units.

In order for the photo to come out interesting, we need to highlight just one cherry branch from the others. To do this, we will proceed as follows.

Let's set the aperture priority mode to Av or, on some cameras, A.

In this mode, we can choose the aperture, but the camera itself will select the shutter speed.

Important: The wider the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field we will get.

What I've done. I opened the aperture a little. Set the value F|10 and in the end we got the photo (above).

As we can see, the back branches have begun to blur a little. ISO in in this case was entrusted to the automation and it chose its value of 400. What is tolerable.

Let's open the aperture even wider and set ISO 100 units. This is what we get.

In this photo the camera has set the shutter speed to 1\200 seconds.

And finally, I took one more shot with aperture F|4

Here the camera set the shutter speed 1\250 seconds You see, the branch is separated from the background and looks much more beautiful and interesting.

As you can see, using these simple techniques of using manual settings, you can achieve much more interesting photos than on the machine.

Conclusion: The camera can be trusted with only one of the parameters, and not always. In this case, the camera matched my shutter speed and, in some places, ISO to my aperture. Don't let the camera choose literally all the shooting options for you.

Go through all the items in each tab. After you set up the Russian language, and you can do this in the second tab, understanding everything else will not be difficult, and you can easily cope with this task. It is much more interesting to learn how to make some settings directly from the shooting itself.

Selecting a shooting mode

The rest, the creative ones, need intervention from the photographer. For example, A-DEP mode performs autoexposure function, controlling the sharpness of the image.

TV mode is used when you need to take a photo with the longest or shortest possible shutter speed. Av, on the contrary, is set to aperture priority - it controls the amount of incoming light. P mode, program, allows the photographer to control ISO and other parameters except aperture and shutter speed.

Exposure compensation

Once the desired value has been set, release the “+/-” button and the changes will take effect.

White balance

To even out the color and adjust the balance, go to the WB menu by pressing the corresponding button on the camera body. The WB button is located next to the navigation buttons.

ISO

By clicking on it, you can select the value you need from 100 to 6400. This value determines how much the camera matrix will sense the light falling on it. The darker the area where you are shooting, the higher the ISO value should be.

Having purchased new camera you can study its capabilities for a long time and constantly find something new. But how can you not waste time, but immediately master the basic functions of the new device and start taking photographs as soon as possible? This article will tell you about the main points that should be taken into account when mastering a new technique.

When a new camera is first unpacked and turned on, you immediately want to start taking photos, but first you need to set up the camera. We will look at the main points that you should learn in order to start fully using your new camera. This guide is suitable for both owners of SLR cameras and owners of compact and mirrorless cameras.

Before working with a new camera and memory card, the latter should be formatted. This will give you plenty of space to fill it with pictures and will give you confidence that this memory card will work properly on your new camera. You need to format the card periodically. This will allow it to last longer under active use. Every camera has a formatting function. It's on the menu.

Absolutely all cameras save photos in Jpeg format, but some models (all semi-professional and professional cameras) provide the ability to shoot in RAW.

The RAW format allows you to save maximum amount details and allows you to later, when processing on a computer, more carefully adjust the image parameters. However, the disadvantage of this format is that unprocessed images look bad. Every photo taken in RAW needs to be processed on a computer.

The Jpeg format is the result of image processing by the camera processor. The camera corrects the photo according to user settings or automatically (if auto mode is set). To convert a RAW file to TIFF and JPEG, special converter programs are used. They are usually supplied with the camera on a disk or third-party software is installed. Adobe Camera RAW, Adobe Lightroom and many others are suitable for this. RAW images take up a large amount of data. Additionally, they cannot be viewed by regular photo viewers. Therefore, RAW will definitely have to be converted to Jpeg if you want to send pictures via e-mail or post on social networks.

3. Image size

All cameras provide the ability to choose the size of future photographs. This size is measured in pixels. The smaller it is, the less the photos weigh, but accordingly the quality of the images also deteriorates.

All cameras have several exposure modes. setting them correctly allows you to get a well-lit frame.

The automatic mode can quite accurately determine the exposure mode on its own, but with it you will never take a creative photo with a non-standard exposure. To do this you will have to use manual settings, but still, manual settings are intended for precise definition frame exposure parameters. Automation sometimes makes mistakes, especially in poor lighting or unusual conditions.

Once you gain experience, you can move on to more advanced shooting modes - aperture priority and shutter priority. These modes allow you to adjust one parameter (shutter speed or aperture), and the camera selects the second independently. There is a fully manual mode "M" (Manual). This mode gives the photographer complete control over camera settings.

The light sensitivity of the sensor is measured in ISO units. This setting causes the camera to be more or less sensitive to light output. At normal conditions shooting uses a value of 100 or 200 units. Increasing the photosensitivity parameter allows you to take brighter pictures. This is especially noticeable when photographing in the evening and at night. But not everything is as good as it might seem. Increasing the ISO setting inevitably leads to the appearance of noise (interference) in the image. An unjustified increase in photosensitivity can completely ruin a photograph.

Different light sources have different shades of color. Human eye, or rather the brain, adapts this glow, turning it white, but the camera perceives everything as it is. That is, the yellow color of the incandescent lamp in the picture will be exactly yellow color. And the whole room will have a yellow tint. To avoid this, cameras have white balance settings. There is an automatic mode, several modes that are pre-programmed for the most common lighting conditions, and there are manual settings. The camera just needs to show you what kind of glow you want white to look like in the photo.

To get started, the most acceptable choice of exposure metering is Matrix or Multi-zone. In this mode, the camera divides the frame into many sections and measures the exposure in each section. This allows you to obtain the optimal exposure setting. Can be used on different cameras different name of this parameter: evaluative, matrix, multi-zone, or multi-segment.

There are two main focusing modes - automatic and manual.

IN manual mode you need to rotate the ring on the lens or change a certain parameter in the camera, achieve the moment when the subject becomes sharp. In automatic mode, the camera independently focuses on certain points or a given algorithm (many compact cameras recognize faces in the frame and focus on them).

There are different variations of automatic mode. For example, the camera can keep focus on the subject as long as the shutter button is held down - this is continuous autofocus. There is tracking autofocus. He follows the movement of the subject and constantly keeps focus on him.

9. Shooting mode

Typically the camera takes one photo when you press the shutter button, but there is a mode in which the camera continuously takes many photos while the shutter button is held down. This mode is often used in combination with continuous focusing and is used when shooting sports.

If your camera or lens has an image stabilization option, it's worth using it. It allows you to compensate for slight vibrations and swaying of the camera in the hands of the photographer. This stabilization makes it possible to take clear photographs, even if your hand trembles during exposure of the frame.

Many cameras have modes that can be broadly called Picture Styles or Picture Controls. These modes allow you to take optimal quality photos depending on the shooting conditions.

For example, when photographing nature, you need to set the appropriate mode on the camera and the camera will take green and blue colors more saturated. This will slightly increase sharpness to obtain better detail and contrast. However, this mode should not be confused with scene modes. Picture Control does not affect shutter speed and aperture, but scene modes do.

Cameras have built-in color model profiles. Most often these are Adobe RGB and SRGB. The Adobe RGB color model provides a wide range of colors, so your photos are colorful and expressive, but most monitors and printing devices in the printing industry work with SRGB, so if you are going to print photos or make collages on your computer, it is better to use SRGB.

Based on materials from the site:

Different models of photographic equipment have different customization options. Budget devices have a minimal choice of shooting modes. Settings for semi-professional and professional level wider, which allows for high-quality shooting in any lighting conditions.

How a digital camera works

The term photography is commonly understood as recording visible picture reality through light. The main elements for obtaining an image are the lens through which light enters the camera, the opening/closing shutter in front of the light-sensitive receiver, and the light receiver itself.

Film was used as the last element in film devices; in digital technology, a matrix was used.

The range of cameras based on the principle of image formation is usually divided into mirrorless devices, which, due to their simplicity and affordability, are popularly called “point-and-shoot cameras,” and “DSLRs” (DSLR cameras). The main difference between these devices is that the latter have special mirrors, due to which the photographer sees the image being captured on the camera screen without delay, which is not available when using a point-and-shoot camera.

The main parameters that a photographer has to manipulate to shoot in different conditions, relate:

• exposition,
• DOF,
• focusing,
• sensor sensitivity (ISO),
• white balance.

All these parameters are closely interrelated, and for high-quality shooting it is important to configure them correctly. Professionals and novice photographers have to shoot in different environments: they need to shoot moving or static objects, the lighting may vary depending on weather conditions or time of day. Therefore, it is important to know the capabilities of the camera and the features of its settings for working in various conditions, for example, for shooting indoors.

Digital photography setup tools

The main problems that a novice user of advanced photographic equipment has to solve are learning and using configuration tools:

• for subject photography;
• for shooting landscapes, nature, birds and animals;
• conducting photo reports from sporting or cultural events;
• for studio shooting and other photographic work.

It is important to know the concept of “exposure” - it determines the amount and time of exposure of the light flux to the matrix. The tools for adjusting exposure are shutter speed and aperture. And the first step in finding the answer to the question of how to set up a camera is to understand the manipulation of these parameters.

Excerpt

Shutter speed determines the time that light, when the curtain is open, affects the matrix. During this time, an image is recorded on the matrix by light passing through the lens and the open curtain. The curtain opens when you press the start button. Shutter speed varies depending on shooting conditions short or long. The parameter is indicated in a numerical format: 1/500 second, 1/8000 second, for example.

Setting the shutter speed Canon EOS 600D

To capture dynamic moments, such as athletes in motion or birds in flight, use a fast shutter speed. Setting your camera to a slow shutter speed is recommended when shooting in poor lighting conditions.

In semi-professional and professional models from manufacturers such as Sony, Canon, Nikon, Samsung, in addition to various automatic scene shooting modes, there is a manual shutter speed setting mode.

Shutter speed is closely related not only to lighting conditions, but also to another adjustable parameter - aperture, which determines amount of light. The diaphragm is a mechanical part of the lens in the form of petals that change in size with a hole in the center. By adjusting the size of these petals, the opening for the light flux is increased or decreased, which in turn determines the amount of light that comes into contact with the matrix. The aperture is also indicated by the symbol "f" with a number: f5.6, f16, for example. The higher the numerical value of the aperture, the smaller the hole created for the light flux.

Correct exposure means optimal choice shutter speed and aperture values ​​for certain conditions. For studio shooting, these will be some parameters, and for outdoor shooting, different ones.

The size of the aperture is closely related to depth of field (DOF), and that, in turn, to focusing.

Focus and depth of field

A generally accepted technique in photography, when the subject being photographed is selected as the center of maximum sharpening (focus). Aiming the depth of field at the subject is called focusing.

Cameras and phone cameras are usually equipped with automatic focusing. In addition to the automatic mode, professional-level equipment is equipped with the ability to adjust the depth of field and focus manually. Technical solution may be different: mechanical or electronic focusing method is used. Control is carried out both by pressing a specific button and by rotating the lens focusing ring.

ISO matrices

The setting of the frame exposure is also affected by such a parameter as the ISO of the matrix. For film cameras the parameter was expressed film speed, which is marked with 100, 200 or 400 on the box. In digital cameras, ISO can be adjusted for each individual frame. This parameter is relevant for setting up a SLR camera, since this technique is used in different modes shooting. So, for photographing landscapes, it is optimal to set the value to 1600, in portrait works 3200, and for story photo reports the value can reach 6400. In semi-professional equipment, values ​​from 100 to 1600 are most often used.

White balance

Any lighting conditions have their own temperature, and this fact explains the concept of warm and cold shades of light. In order for the photograph to be as close to reality as possible in terms of color display, it is important to monitor and adjust the “white balance” parameter. Otherwise, with the same settings in different situations, you may get spoiled pictures with a predominance of red or blue tints.

Before you start shooting, it is recommended to adjust the white balance white sheet of paper, which should also be displayed on the viewing screen of the camera. If necessary, the temperature setting can be increased or decreased to achieve the desired result.

In conclusion, we note that manual settings of a professional device are carried out through PASM modes.