Characteristics of digital cameras. Battery life. Maximum flash range

Several years ago, a SLR camera was purchased for professional photography. Today, the time has come for social networks, where everyone wants to stand out with beautiful photos, share photo reports from trips and walks. They often buy a SLR camera for these purposes. The variety of brands and models makes it much more difficult for beginners and amateurs to choose. In this article we will describe in detail what you should pay attention to and how to choose a camera in accordance with your intended purposes.

Is a DSLR really necessary?

Often, buying a DSLR (DSLR camera) seems like a good idea only until you purchase it. According to many newbie photographers, buying a camera is a 100% guarantee of high-quality photos. Let’s say you invited a photographer to an event, paid for an hour of work, and after a couple of weeks you received wonderful pictures without distortion, with an even complexion, “borders” in the background. And then a business plan emerges in my head, just an hour of time, such an amount, and I’m good at filming myself. The idea of ​​investing is ripening Money into photographic equipment, the work is not dusty, and also so profitable!

Not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance. When buying a SLR camera, you are not only purchasing a device, but you are signing a sentence for yourself to purchase an entire system, which requires large investments. Undoubtedly, high-quality photographs are obtained with a semi-professional SLR camera, and even with a kit lens. However, there is also a “but” here: in order for the pictures to match in quality and performance, you need to know the theory. Studying all the nuances will not take a single day; understanding will come with experience in a month.

That is, when buying a SLR camera you should stock up on:
1. Finance(be prepared for additional costs).
2. Time(gaining photography experience, time to process photos).
3. Knowledge(it is important to understand at least the basics: composition, color combinations, volume, poses and angles, creating effects using various shooting modes, graphic editors).

What goals should you follow? when buying a camera and how this will affect your choice:

- Amateur photography for the family archive, photos of friends, children and relatives.
In this case, it is not necessary to consider top models. It is enough to limit yourself to a semi-professional camera (the manufacturers themselves position them as entry-level models; it is not difficult to distinguish them by their low cost and more numbers in the name). Starter models are equipped with a universal lens marked KIT (kit lens). It is difficult for an amateur who does not have experience and a lot of knowledge to get decent pictures with this optics. If your plans are to develop yourself as a photographer, then initial stage a kit lens is enough to get the hang of shooting in manual mode. When a camera is needed only for taking photos for the family archive, and you have the finances, it is more advisable to replace it with a higher quality and light-sensitive optics model.

- Professional and commercial photography.
This type of photography implies that the buyer is already a photographer with a certain amount of experience and has a wealth of knowledge, equipment and components.
Professional SLR cameras are far from a budget option (if you also take into account that the optics must correspond to the level of the camera, or even be an order of magnitude higher). Therefore, beginners and amateurs who are ready to buy a camera today and post an advertisement for commercial photography tomorrow are not recommended to purchase expensive models. Shooting with a DSLR requires a lot of thinking, and if the whole process happens in auto mode, then it's a waste of money.

DSLR Camera Options

A SLR camera has about fifty characteristics, but not all of them are important, as manufacturers assure. What should you pay attention to first?

Matrix size and megapixels

It is the matrix that is the main unit of the camera, a digital analogue of photographic film. Using the matrix, the light flow is converted into electrical signals - thus producing the picture that we see on the monitor. To put it simply, a matrix is ​​a microcircuit consisting of millions of light-sensitive sensors.

In addition to the name of the matrix, the characteristics always indicate the number of elements (sensors), which is more familiar to us in the wording megapixels. One megapixel (Mp) is equal to a million light sensors.

The number of megapixels is directly related to the resolution of the matrix; the quality of the photo, detail and noise level depend on it. A larger number of megapixels allows you to get a picture with high detail.

But such an indicator as megapixels should not come first. Initially, decide on the choice of the physical size of the matrix (matrix diagonal in centimeters or inches). The fact is that a larger pixel size provides a high degree of photosensitivity, capturing more photons of light. Comparing several matrices with the same number of light-sensitive sensors, in case of insufficient illumination, a matrix with a larger diagonal will provide a lower level of noise.

You can often see digital compact cameras with 24 megapixels, but has any professional switched to a point-and-shoot camera just because it has more megapixels than an expensive DSLR? Of course not. Manufacturers are spurring demand for multi-pixel models, but the image quality is not getting any better. And all because the size of the matrix remains the same.

If we consider, for example, several matrices, from a compact camera and a SLR camera, then the difference in physical size immediately catches the eye, while the number of pixels in both cameras is the same. But the size of DSLR camera sensors is larger, therefore the light sensitivity is better.

What does a manufacturer do when they announce an increase in the number of pixels? Increases the physical size of the matrix? No it's expensive. The manufacturer places on the same small matrix not 12 megapixels, but 24 megapixels, for example. In the photograph this is reflected by an increase in sharpness and detail, but that’s where the advantages end. The area of ​​photosensitive sensors becomes several times smaller, photosensitivity decreases, and more digital noise appears.

In SLR cameras, the matrix size is indicated only in millimeters; in addition to physical dimensions, there is such a thing as crop factor.
The crop factor shows the difference between 35 mm film (the full-frame sensor has the same dimensions) and the size of the sensor installed in the camera. All entry-level and mid-level DSLR cameras are not full frame.

A full frame makes it easier to achieve the effect of blurring the background, using the full potential of the lens (the angle is wider, the light sensitivity is higher, focusing is easier).
From this we conclude that Full Frame matrices allow shooting in low-light conditions, produce an image with less digital noise and better color rendition.

Noise in photos – an undesirable defect, which is chaotically located multi-colored dots that appear in low light. Noise is clearly visible in photographs in objects that are darker or uniform in saturation and color (out-of-focus background, dark clothing, etc.). Yes, you can get rid of digital noise in professional graphic editors, in which case the problem would seem to be solved. By no means, getting rid of unwanted noise entails a loss of sharpness, a decrease in the detail of small objects and contrasting lines. In more expensive camera models, manufacturers introduce new noise reduction algorithms, but they only partially help.

Of course, any camera will produce noise, but it will only appear when different meanings ISO.

ISO – sensitivity of the matrix, indicated by a numerical value. ISO is one of the three parameters for setting the correct exposure. The higher the sensitivity is set in the camera settings, the wider the possibilities for shooting in the dark. However, it is still recommended not to work with high ISO values, as this will lead to a loss in the quality of the final images. The optimal ISO values ​​are 50, 100, 400; when setting the parameters higher, noise and digital debris will appear in the photographs. So, focusing on buying a camera with a higher ISO is also not correct. If you plan to shoot in low light conditions, it is better to stock up on additional lighting equipment.

Everything described above should concern the buyer first. But, as practice shows, entry-level models from different manufacturers are similar in their values ​​and design features, so it will be important to study additional parameters of DSLRs. The following characteristics do not affect the quality of the image, however, they bring convenience to the shooting process.

Image stabilization

Almost all compact cameras are equipped with a stabilizer, but not always DSLRs. This is primarily due to the weight and size of the camera; small compacts are more susceptible to shaking in the hand, unlike large and heavy SLR cameras. A slight vibration of the hand leads to defocus and blurring of the image. DSLR cameras are easier to hold in position without shaking because... You need to hold them with both hands very close to your face. I would like to note that the presence of stabilization does not greatly affect the cost of the camera; there are both amateur models with stabilization and professional ones without it.

Stabilization is useful for:
- Shooting with a long-focus lens (the longer the focal length of the lens, the more difficult it is to focus; the oscillation distance increases exponentially as you approach).
- Shooting in low light conditions and at long shutter speeds (indoors, evening and night photography).

Stabilization systems:
- Optical. Implies automatic lens unit add-ons, technically this is quite complex look stabilization compared to digital.
- Digital. With digital stabilization, it is not the optics that move, but the matrix. Digital stabilization is less effective, so it is not advisable to focus on buying a camera with digital stabilization.

If you like a camera without built-in stabilization, don’t worry. In any case, the best stabilizer is a tripod; it’s rare that long-focus or long-shutter photography can be done without a tripod.

Bayonet

The undoubted advantage of SLR cameras over digital compacts is the ability to change optics. Depending on the goals set, the photographer needs to change and select lenses. Portrait and full-length photography is best done with medium focus, nature and the sky with wide-angle lenses. Unfortunately, universal optics “for both the feast and the world” have not yet been invented. In this regard, SLR cameras provide the ability to change lenses. The bayonet mount acts as a connecting element between the camera and the lens. The mount is made of metal with a rotating connection (until it clicks). There are contacts on the bayonet through which the lens is powered and information commands are exchanged.

Having chosen a camera, study in advance the compatibility of optics for this model. Each global manufacturer of photographic equipment has its own mounting standard.
In addition to the differences in mounts between manufacturers, you should take into account the difference in mounts for full-frame and cropped equipment. For full-frame cameras, each brand has its own separate line of lenses, in most cases with “astronomical” cost. Of course, it is always easy to find an adapter for “non-native” optics on sale, but this is a separate expense.

If you have friends who are photographers, then find out what mount they have, in case you have the opportunity to exchange or borrow a lens. For a popular type of mount it is easier to find an analogue of an expensive original lens. If you are on a budget, then the best choice is the most common mount.

Shutter life: forever together?

There is probably no amateur photographer who has not worried about the life of the camera shutter. Everyone knows that DSLR cameras have a mileage limit, but should we be afraid of this? When purchasing used equipment, the shutter life is almost the first parameter that is emphasized.

The numbers provided by manufacturers do not always correspond to reality; identical models of DSLRs fail at different mileage. For example, the manufacturer indicates a mileage of 50,000 frames; there is no guarantee that the shutter will work for exactly this period.

It all depends on the operating conditions. If the camera is located indoors or in a studio and is used in “greenhouse” conditions, then it is possible to extend the life of the shutter. Sometimes the mileage is two or three times higher. Taking photographs outdoors in highly dusty and windy weather will not benefit the camera.

Frequently changing lenses also has a detrimental effect on shutter life. To extend the shutter's production limit, it is enough to avoid situations where dust and debris get into the mechanism.

You can always take the camera to a service center to replace the shutter and clean the sensor; the service is not cheap, but the price of a new device is several times higher.

In addition to the resource, the shutter is associated with such a parameter as excerpt .

Before purchasing, decide which photography style will be dominant when shooting.

Built-in flash, is it really necessary?

The flash built in by the manufacturer is only suitable for amateurs who shoot in auto mode and don’t really think about the quality of the image. If your goals are to “click to make it happen,” then the built-in flash is for you. For development in photography, shooting three-dimensional images, the built-in flash is not suitable; its use often “negates” the full potential of the camera.

Cons of the built-in flash:
- shooting “head-on”, all the shadows on the face are highlighted or have hard transitions, because of this the effect of a flat image is created;
- red eyes and bright hard glare (overexposure) on reflective surfaces;
- there is no possibility to reduce the light intensity, therefore the exposure is not always set correctly;
- hard black falling shadows from objects;
- does not turn off during automatic and semi-automatic shooting, it works automatically depending on the lighting.

Despite the significant disadvantages, there are pros:
- the flash is absolutely free, when buying a camera with a built-in flash, you do not overpay. A built-in flash is rarely found on professional-level models, since only amateurs use it;
- compact dimensions. It is difficult to forget, lose or break.

If you seriously decide to take up photography and use your camera for commercial purposes, then think about buying an external flash.

Viewfinder and LCD screen

One of the important elements of a DSLR camera is viewfinder. The viewfinder is the primary transmission of information from the camera to the photographer.
The viewfinder is not responsible for the quality of the photograph, but it does affect the photographer’s perception of the final image.

Modern SLR cameras include:
- Optic. It is a set of lenses built into the camera. The image is displayed with a certain error, making focus adjustment more difficult.

- Electronic. Allows you to see the image without distortion, you can immediately see whether the photo is correctly exposed and the white balance. Helps you achieve accurate focus in manual mode. Displays shooting options.

LCD screen installed on all modern SLR cameras. Taking pictures in LiveView mode (looking at the LCD screen) is not recommended, but it is still a useful addition. Manufacturers equip the LCD display with a touchscreen and rotating mechanisms.

Buying a camera with a rotating display will make the photographer’s life easier in many ways and will protect new jeans from dirt and dust. How, you ask? Often it takes a long time to select a good angle for a successful shot; shooting from below has always been a winning option, but it’s not very pleasant to kneel down or lie down on the asphalt for the sake of a shot.

In LiveView mode, just rotate the screen and lower the camera to the desired level. Note that shooting in LiveView mode consumes power many times faster. To save energy, many models are equipped with a monochrome display. An additional display makes it easier to configure shooting parameters and displays basic indicators.

Video recording

This feature is not found on all cameras, and not every photographer needs it. Suitable for wedding photographers and videographers, for shooting semi-professional videos, and maintaining a personal blog. You can improve the recording quality with additional purchases: a microphone, a tripod. Modern models cameras support video recording in Full HD format, but this is still not enough for creating advertising or clips.

Let's sum it up

Choosing a DSLR camera puts not only beginners, but also professional photographers in a difficult position.

We recommend not focusing on a specific brand of camera, but based on the required characteristics. Having previously studied the information on the Internet, choose several suitable models and test them in the store. Pay attention not only to the characteristics and indicators of the “filling”, shape and weight also play an important role. Cameras with a metal body are more reliable, but not every photographer can handle carrying a kilogram body in his hands, and add to this the weight of the lens and flash.

Hold several cameras in your hand, the ergonomic shape and rubber grips will be an additional step towards comfortable shooting.
If your budget does not allow for the purchase of a full-frame camera, then consider inexpensive crop camera models. The characteristics of DSLRs in the same price segment are similar, so take a closer look at the little things that make the shooting process easier.

Research the compatibility of accessories and configurations for your preferred camera in advance. Sometimes buying a little-known brand leads to problems in selecting non-branded accessories. It’s easier to find additional equipment for popular cameras at a lower cost and easier to resell.

The main mistake that novice photographers make is investing completely in the body of the camera. While the best option is to invest in a lens, the addition is to buy a mid-level camera. A good lens unlocks the potential of the camera and the photographer. It is extremely difficult to achieve a professional level with a budget version of a kit lens.

Remember, 80% of success depends on the person operating the equipment, and not vice versa.

So, you have decided to purchase a digital photographic camera. Let me make a few observations and comments on this subject, in the hope that they will arouse your interest and be of some benefit to you.

The digital camera almost completely fits the definition of a “new technology” product; almost all of its elements were developed and put into production in the very recent past. The only exception, although with some stretch, can be considered camera optics; in digital SLRs it is possible to use interchangeable lenses professional film cameras. Since the first appearance on the market digital cameras less than 20 years later, in 1991, the Kodak DSC100 saved pictures to a hard drive, the external unit of which weighed 5 kilograms. Today, all digital cameras record data on flash memory, the types of which are already quite unified, and purchasing the necessary model or adapter device for reading information, a card reader, is not difficult. So, when buying a digital camera, this characteristic can be ignored. All cameras have built-in memory, but it is not enough to store a large number of captured frames; you will still have to buy an external memory card, and there is only one piece of advice - the larger the capacity it has, the better.

In general, today you can classify “digital cameras” by price starting from $100. Unlike film point-and-shoot cameras, it is not easy to find a digital camera on sale below this price. I assume that this niche is occupied by built-in cameras of mobile phones. These cameras are quite capable of taking a quick “memory” photo for viewing on a mobile phone or computer screen. If a person wants to hold a traditional photograph in his hands, he buys a “real” camera. What should you pay attention to when purchasing it? The main parameter, as it happens, and quite rightly, is the number of megapixels of the matrix. It is assumed that the higher this number, the better, “clearer” the picture will be.

But this rule is only true up to a certain limit; the “clarity” of the image depends on many other characteristics camera matrix, its size, photosensitivity and others. An increase in the number of pixels on the matrix leads to an increase in the so-called signal to noise ratio. Each pixel receives less light because the photosensitive area of ​​the pixel itself becomes smaller, and accordingly the strength of the electric charge that is read by the digital converter of the camera will be smaller. Therefore, when familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of the camera, you should definitely pay attention to the size (surface area) of the matrix itself. If the number of pixels is equal, you should give preference to a camera with a larger matrix. With matrices of the same size and a number of pixels of the order of 6-7 million, paradoxically, the best pictures will be taken by a camera with fewer pixels, especially when photographing is done indoors, where there is less light. Of course, this is all true if the other technical characteristics of the device are equal, and even for devices from the same manufacturer. In addition, the number of pixels on the matrix does not coincide with the number of pixels in the resulting picture; pay attention to the characteristic: “The number of effective megapixels of the matrix”, it can differ very much, by 2-3 units, from the total number of pixels. But we can say that for amateur and semi-professional photography, a camera with 5-6 megapixels is quite acceptable; it will allow you to get very nice photos A4 size (standard sheet of writing paper). An important characteristic of a camera matrix is ​​its light sensitivity. It is measured in units (ISO), from 50 to several thousand. Almost all modern cameras allow you to change this parameter. High light sensitivity when shooting during the day, in sunlight, is undesirable, and modern cameras reduce it automatically. Manual change is useful for shooting with unusual, special tasks.

Noise histogram of Canon A510 in comparison with Canon A75 (matrix 1/2.5" and 1/2.7" number of pixels is the same)

Another important element of the camera is lens. Good professional photo optics can cost several times more than the camera itself. The main lens parameters are focal length, Zoom and aperture ratio. Please note that with a high Zoom value (ultrazoom), in some conditions, lower-quality images are obtained. The characteristics of lenses and their impact on the resulting images will be discussed in a separate article.

Camera viewfinder There are optical and mirror. An LCD display has become almost mandatory on good digital cameras. DSLRs are more complex in design, more expensive, for professional photography. They display the image that will be in the photo, make it possible to accurately select light filters, and so on. There are several semi-slang terms: “pseudo-mirror” and “half-mirror”. The former only resemble SLR cameras in shape, the latter contain a prismatic mirror inside the camera, but do not allow the use of interchangeable lenses.

An important parameter of the lens and camera is the presence of image stabilization. Eliminates interference caused by hand shake. Image stabilization can be done in several ways.

Optical Image Stabilizer

The stabilizing element of the lens, movable along the vertical and horizontal axes, is deflected by a command from the sensors by the electric drive of the stabilization system so that the projection of the image on the film (or matrix) completely compensates for camera vibrations during the exposure time. As a result, with small amplitudes of camera vibration, the projection always remains motionless relative to the matrix, which provides the picture with the necessary clarity. However, the presence of an additional optical element reduces the lens aperture.

Moving sensor image stabilizer

In this system, the movement of the camera is compensated not by the optical element inside the lens, but by its matrix mounted on a movable platform. Lenses are becoming cheaper, simpler and more reliable, image stabilization works with any optics. This is important for SLR cameras that have interchangeable lenses. Matrix shift stabilization, unlike optical stabilization, does not introduce distortion into the image (perhaps other than those caused by uneven sharpness of the lens) and does not affect the lens aperture. At the same time, it is believed that matrix shift stabilization is less effective than optical stabilization.As the focal length of the lens increases, the effectiveness of Anti-Shake decreases: at long focal lengths, the matrix has to make too fast movements with too large an amplitude, and it simply ceases to keep up with the “escaping” projection.In addition, for high accuracy of operation, the system must know exact value the focal length of the lens, which limits the use of older zoom lenses, and the focusing distance at short distances, which limits its performance in macro photography.

Electronic (digital) image stabilizer

With this type of stabilization, approximately 40% of the pixels on the matrix are allocated to image stabilization and are not involved in the formation of the image. When the video camera shakes, the image “floats” across the matrix, and the processor records these fluctuations and makes corrections, using reserve pixels to compensate for the image shake. This stabilization system is widely used in digital video cameras where the matrices are small (0.8 MP, 1.3 MP, etc.). It is of lower quality than other types of stabilization, but is fundamentally cheaper, since it does not contain additional mechanical elements.

If you plan to take artistic photographs, pay attention to the camera's exposure characteristics, also called shutter speed. To film, say, the starry sky, for example, a very long shutter speed of the order of several seconds is required.

Well, when choosing a camera, batteries and batteries are also important. In addition, today manufacturers consider it their duty to provide a camera, a device for creating a static image of reality (“stop, just a moment, you are wonderful!”), a microphone and a video recording function. Here, as they say, we will do without comments.

A digital camera is a very convenient thing for capturing the most memorable moments of life. Digital cameras allow even virtually untrained people to create excellent and even artistic photographs. I know cases where a person, fascinated by digital photography, even started doing it professionally, changed his specialty, providing his family with a good income. Advantage digital cameras consists precisely in the simplicity, in comparison with chemical photography, of creating images. If your means allow it, you can easily become the owner of a very good device for photography, and most importantly, quickly master the intricacies of this activity.

The topic of choosing a camera has probably always been and will be relevant. Time passes, technology changes, old materials written on this topic become hopelessly outdated. The general principles remain unchanged, but a huge number of nuances force us to look at the problem of choice differently. Purpose of the article Which camera is the best?- dot all the i’s when it comes to purchasing a digital camera, taking into account the current market situation. The article is aimed primarily at beginner amateur photographers, but I am sure the article will also be useful for experienced users.

Where to start choosing the “best” camera?

First of all, you must determine the range of tasks for which the camera will be used. The tasks can be completely different and you need to come to terms with the fact that an absolutely universal camera simply does not exist. There are only cameras that are suitable for solving certain problems or are not suitable. For example, to go on a picnic with friends, it is not at all necessary to take a professional DSLR there (although there are enthusiasts), an inexpensive point-and-shoot camera or even a smartphone is quite enough - after all, photographs from such events, as a rule, do not go further than social networks and home photo albums. IN in this case the best camera there will be one that is always at hand.

For professional purposes, technology requirements vary significantly depending on the shooting genre. To shoot a report, you need a high speed of continuous shooting and the ability to take photographs handheld in poor lighting, for a landscape - maximum clarity and color depth, for a portrait - high-quality rendition of skin color and the ability to get a beautiful blur of the background, for macro photography - the ability to focus on very close objects. object, and so on. Naturally, all these possibilities cannot be realized in one camera with a single lens. Thus, choosing the best camera option is always a compromise between the capabilities of the equipment, its size, ease of use and price.

Classes of digital cameras

One of the main criteria by which cameras are divided into different classes, is physical matrix size. It is measured not in megapixels, but in millimeters (or inches). It is this parameter that has a decisive influence on the quality of photographs - color rendition, noise level, dynamic range. Traditionally, it was believed that DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have a large matrix - this is good, while soap cameras have a small matrix - bad. Now this division is very arbitrary, since many compact cameras have matrices comparable in size to amateur DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.

Conventionally, digital cameras can be divided into several classes.

Entry-level amateur cameras

The vast majority of digital point-and-shoot cameras costing up to about 20 thousand rubles fall into this category. The electronic components of all these devices are almost always comparable in their characteristics, the difference is in the lens and additional functions, which are often not directly related to photography.

The characteristics of compact cameras “on paper” can look very convincing - more than 20 megapixels, 20-30x zoom, ISO sensitivity range like a professional DSLR, a bunch of all sorts of bells and whistles - Wi-Fi, GPS, NCP, FullHD, 4K and etc. But in reality, everything is not so rosy. The main problem with these devices is that their characteristics are fully manifested only in “greenhouse” conditions, for example, on the street in good lighting. Once the sun goes behind a cloud, the quality of the photos noticeably decreases, and if we try to shoot in a dimly lit room, we are faced with a quiet horror in the form of digital noise (ripples in the pictures), distorted colors and degraded detail.

Cameras with small matrices cannot blur the background, which makes the picture look flat and makes it difficult to convey volume. Sometimes point-and-shoot cameras have a special “blurred background” mode, which programmatically detects foreground and background objects and adds artificial blur to the background. But like all software, this mode does not always do it efficiently and beautifully.

A point-and-shoot camera will be the best choice if you do not set yourself any creative goals - you just buy a “photo recorder” that is always at hand. In this case, it is better to prefer a camera with an increased optical zoom in order to have a more or less universal tool. There is no point in buying the cheapest digital compacts with 2-3x zoom, since they have no advantages over smartphones. Soap cameras with 5-10x zoom are still on sale at the very least, but there is simply nothing to recommend among them.

If you really need a compact camera with a really good zoom, then you should understand that even though it is not the most compact size, the photo quality will be the same “soap-and-shoot”, because the matrix is ​​the same as in simple models.

Another scourge of superzoom compacts is their short battery life. To minimize the dimensions, the manufacturer supplies the camera with a compact, small-capacity battery, from which the lens mechanics, image stabilization, flash, and, in fact, all other electronic components must operate. With a small number of “on/off” cycles, you can actually take 400-500 photos in a short period of time, but if you turn on the camera before each shot and then turn it off, then the best you can count on is 200 frames on one battery charge. The only advantage of such cameras is their versatility.

To decide to buy a device with a “superzoom” you need to have good reasons and a firm belief that you need a 50-60x zoom. The topic of choosing a superzoom has been discussed. If we talk about the best soap dish manufacturer, then in this niche there is not much difference between them. Choose a device with 10-20x zoom from Sony, Nikon, Panasonic, Canon, Olympus. The quality of their photographs will be the same, the only difference is appearance.

Some entry-level cameras have a full range of manual settings. This is aimed primarily at those amateur photographers who want to learn how to take photographs, however, the value of manual settings in such cameras is often greatly exaggerated. The presence of a programmable exposure mode (P), as a rule, covers 99% of the needs of an amateur photographer - tested from our own experience.

If you want to engage in artistic photography, I strongly recommend not to mess with “small matrix” cameras. The picture quality will be acceptable only outdoors in daylight. As lighting conditions deteriorate, the quality of photographs rapidly deteriorates. Photos from these devices are difficult to process in Photoshop, because even with minor manipulations with brightness, contrast, and saturation, artifacts begin to appear - color distortion, increased noise levels, “steps” in smooth color transitions.

Cameras for advanced amateurs

This niche is the most diverse; it contains at least three subgroups, to one degree or another, competing with each other in their capabilities.

"Top soap dishes"

These are compact devices with an enlarged matrix and non-replaceable optics. According to their stated characteristics, they seem to be inferior to entry-level amateur devices (see above) - they have fewer megapixels, the zoom ratio rarely exceeds 3-5 times, sometimes they have worse video capabilities, but they do their job more honestly and with better quality - and namely, they provide better detail and color reproduction than entry-level devices. All this happens thanks to a larger matrix and a higher quality lens.

Among the top compacts, in my opinion, Sony and Panasonic are the most successful, but there are interesting options from Canon, Nikon and other manufacturers.

Another advantage of the “top” compacts (as well as all the groups listed below) is the ability to shoot in RAW format. We will briefly discuss what RAW is a little later, but for now, just take my word for it - this is a very useful feature, for which you can sacrifice zoom ratio, a rotating/touch screen, not to mention “fashionable features” such as Wi-Fi, GPS, etc. .P.

“Top” compacts take excellent photographs outdoors during the day, and you can also achieve acceptable photo quality with them indoors. The credit goes to a higher-quality matrix with an enlarged size (from 1/1.7 to 1 inch) - the larger the better, but also more expensive.

Almost all compacts in this class can shoot in RAW. The presence of the RAW format opens up great opportunities for extracting photos to an acceptable level of quality. The only limitation is that most devices in this niche are not capable of providing beautiful and powerful background blur (bokeh) where it is needed (for example, in a portrait or when shooting close-ups). To “make bokeh” in photographs, you need a device with an even larger matrix and a fast lens. More detailed information You can find information about choosing an entry-level or advanced point-and-shoot camera in the article The Best Compact Cameras

Mirrorless cameras

Mirrorless cameras are essentially the same “top” compacts, only with interchangeable lenses. The main advantage of mirrorless cameras is their “systematic nature”. Essentially, this is a construction set in which the “carcass” acts as a basic element and you can hang a lot of interesting things on it. Another question is that this “interesting” thing costs extra money, and often its cost is many times greater than the cost of the carcass :)

The matrix of mirrorless cameras is several times larger in size than that of amateur compact devices - from 4/3" (Micro 4/3) to "full frame" (36 * 24 mm). This provides great advantages in the form of a large reserve of photosensitivity, better color rendition and greater freedom when working with depth of field. Where amateur point-and-shoot cameras turn the image into a mess of pixels, mirrorless cameras provide quite acceptable image quality for those who install a fast lens with a fixed focal length, for example, 25mm/1.4, on the body. 50mm/1.8 - with them, shooting indoors turns from torture into pleasure. The kit lens does not have a large aperture and in some cases limits the possibilities of using the camera.

If we talk about manufacturers, I would recommend first of all looking towards Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm. These manufacturers entered the “mirrorless” niche earlier than others and, in connection with this, their choice of additional lenses and accessories is wider than that of those “catching up” - Canon and Nikon.

A modern mirrorless camera is a fast, reliable and functional device that is not inferior in image quality and performance to DSLR cameras (and in some ways surpasses them) and at the same time is much lighter and more compact. The main disadvantage of most mirrorless cameras is that in the pursuit of compactness, many physical controls (buttons, wheels) are often replaced with software (menu items). Since the functionality of mirrorless cameras is very high, the menu becomes multi-level and complex - this makes life difficult for the photographer if he needs to photograph something in non-standard conditions, when standard settings and presets cannot provide the correct result. But this is the exception rather than the rule. In my opinion, if you need a device “for every day,” a mirrorless camera will be the most practical solution.

Having at my disposal a DSLR Canon EOS 5D and a mirrorless Olympus E-PM2, I give preference to the latter for most trips and walks light, as well as for home amateur photography. Personally, I am quite satisfied with the quality of Olympus images, especially if I change the kit lens to a fast prime lens. This is despite the fact that the E-PM2 model belongs to the most budget class of mirrorless cameras. The mirrorless camera copes remarkably well with landscape photography - color rendition and dynamic range are at a quite decent level.

SLR Cameras

DSLRs- devices that use a shutter with a moving or fixed mirror, through which the image seen by the lens is projected into the viewfinder. This design is old, however, it has quite successfully taken root in the digital world.

In terms of image quality, DSLRs do not have advantages over mirrorless cameras, since their matrices are the same, however, DSLR cameras have their own advantages: the ability to use fast phase detection autofocus (although modern mirrorless cameras have also learned to use it), low power consumption in standard mode (when shooting through viewfinder, not the screen). Another advantage of DSLRs is the large number of accessories available for sale (including on the secondary market), which are truly enormous. Prices for DSLR lenses are generally less than for mirrorless lenses with comparable characteristics (keep this in mind if you plan to grow and develop).

DSLRs have firmly taken root in the field of professional photography - for professional photographers, it is important not only the number of functions of the camera, but also the ease of access to them (it’s easier to press a button than to climb the menu every time!). And the autofocus of advanced DSLRs in difficult conditions works faster and more accurately than that of mirrorless cameras. The main disadvantage of a DSLR is its size and weight, although some models are very compact and comparable in size to top-end compacts (for example, Canon ESO 100D). If this drawback is not critical, buying a DSLR is completely justified, otherwise it is better to look towards mirrorless cameras.

Among DSLR manufacturers, Canon and Nikon traditionally share the palm; I recommend considering these manufacturers first. Not because Sony and Pentax DSLRs are bad - far from it! The question is that over time you will want to buy a new lens for your camera. If you have Canon or Nikon, you can buy a lens at any photo store (after finding out where it’s cheaper) or a used one on Avito. Sony's situation is worse - optics, in principle, are on sale, but the range is smaller and prices may be higher. Pentax is a different story! The devices themselves are very interesting, but to find the right optics for them on sale, you need to try very hard.

DSLRs are record holders for battery life, since the matrix “turns on” only when the shutter opens. For other classes of cameras, the matrix always works to transfer the image to the screen. DSLRs also have a LiveView mode, in which the camera works like a point-and-shoot camera and displays the image not in the viewfinder, but on the screen. At the same time, energy consumption increases accordingly.

Cameras for enthusiastic amateurs and professionals

This niche is also very diverse. The main characteristic feature of these devices is the presence of some unique capabilities, for which people are willing to pay 2, 3 and even 10 times more than for middle-class equipment. Everyone’s needs are different - some need a full-frame sensor (mostly professional portrait photographers, landscape painters, wedding photographers), while others need an image component (most often, wealthy people, for whom the main criterion in choosing is “that the device is pleasant to hold” in their hands" - it is for them that compact stylish "image" devices are created).

Full-frame cameras provide the best image quality, which is why they are very popular among professional photographers and advanced photography enthusiasts. If previously this niche was mainly dominated by Canon and Nikon DSLRs, now mirrorless cameras are also beginning to penetrate into it. Sony Alpha A7 is the first sign, a full-frame mirrorless camera at a reasonable price for a full frame. The “vintage” Leica is a fashion device “for the rich,” however, it has a full-frame sensor and quite good photographic capabilities.

The screenshot was taken when a dollar cost 33 rubles :) Now the cost of such a Leica is from 600 thousand rubles. I will modestly remain silent about the practicality of such an acquisition; for the price of one Leica M body you can buy a professional Canon or Nikon DSLR with a professional lens (or even several).

If you're aiming for full frame, keep in mind that its capabilities are fully realized only with high-quality optics, which can cost comparable to the camera, and sometimes much more. Buying a full frame for amateur home photography is not the most practical investment. If you are a beginner, it is better to buy simpler equipment and invest the difference in price into learning photography. If you have photographic experience and a desire to improve yourself, a full-frame camera will be an excellent tool in your hands!

Added 05/15/2018

Recently, one of my readers commented to me that I did not consider another category of professional equipment in this article - medium format cameras. I’ll say right away that I’m a little far from this topic and have only superficial knowledge about this technique. Medium format cameras have a matrix on average 1.5 times larger than the “full frame”, their own fleet of optics and additional equipment. The cost of a full-fledged set for shooting in “medium format” can exceed the cost of a new foreign car, so it’s no wonder that the demand for this equipment, even in the professional niche, is small compared to the same full-frame DSLRs.

Shooting in “medium format” is characterized by slowness, the use of long shutter speeds and very (by “cropped” standards) clamped apertures. The reward for this will be images with colossal detail (40-50 megapixels and more), ideal perspective transfer (since 50 mm on a medium format is a very wide-angle lens), and if you want to blur the background, then you can work wonders here.

Conclusion. Which camera is suitable for whom?

So, it's time to draw a line under all of the above. Let's try to summarize the most typical options in a table. The options are “basic”; depending on your preferences, they can be combined with each other. The table shows approximate camera models that are suitable for this role. Sometimes I labeled entire families of cameras. It was not my goal to list everything that is suitable - simply to indicate the class of equipment among which we need to look for options.

I think we can end here. Good luck with your choice of camera and more good pictures!

About my help in choosing a camera

Until recently, I provided a consultation service on choosing a camera based on your criteria. Now I'm her I don't provide. Due to my busy schedule, I no longer had the opportunity to regularly get acquainted with new products in the photo industry, attend presentations and exhibitions of new products. Therefore, the maximum that I can offer you is to look at the table above again, determine the selection criteria using it, and with these criteria go to a specialized photo store, where sellers, as a rule, understand this topic. Asking for help from a professional seller is as normal as using the services of a real estate agent, servicing the car not in a garage on your own, but in a good car service center. For the extra charge included in the price of the product in the company store of Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus, etc., you receive professional advice. If you don’t want to pay for a consultation, figure it out yourself and buy in the online store, find out a lot of new things, and save money too:)

This is a set of lenses that are located one after another in a cylindrical housing. The objective of the lens is to reduce the size of the “external” image to the size of the camera matrix and focus this reduced image onto the matrix.

The lens is the first of two camera components that have the greatest impact on the quality of the resulting photographs.

• One of the most important lens parameters is the focal length, which is indicated in millimeters. According to this indicator, lenses are divided into two groups:
• Primes are lenses designed for one focal length. The most common prime lens has a focal length of 35 mm.

Zooms are lenses designed for several focal lengths, usually 3 or 4. With this lens you can shoot at different distances.

Most digital camera models come with zoom lenses. For zooms, the focal length is indicated as a range of smaller and larger values ​​- the “shortest” and the “longest” focal lengths.

Camera matrix

The sensor is the second of two camera components that have the greatest impact on the quality of the resulting photographs.

But what is more important is the size of the matrix in millimeters (length and width). However, in specifications, the size is most often indicated in relative numbers. There is a “basic” matrix size of 24 x 36 mm. A matrix of this size is considered full-size. The easiest way to navigate is by the crop factor of the matrix - number 1 is a full-size matrix. crop factor 5.62 is the cheapest and smallest matrix. The closer the crop factor is to one, the larger the matrix.

The dimensions of the matrices indicate:

Or in the form of such a fraction 2/3", 4/3", 1/2.33" - this is the length of the diagonal of the matrix in fractions of an inch.

Or a decimal number of the form 2, 4, 4.8, 5.62 - this is the crop factor, it indicates how much the diagonal of the matrix is ​​smaller than the diagonal of the full-size matrix.

A crop factor of 4 means that the diagonal of the matrix is ​​4 times smaller than the diagonal of a full-size matrix.

• Matrix sizes (from good to bad):
• Full-size matrix (full frame) 36 x 24 mm.
• APS-H, APS-C - matrices are used in expensive SLR cameras. Crop factors 1.3, 1.5.
• 4/3" - the matrix is ​​used in quite expensive SLR cameras. Crop factor 2. 1" - matrix is ​​used by some mirrorless cameras
• , for example Nikon 1. Crop factor 2.7.
• 2/3" - such matrices are used in expensive Fujifilm point-and-shoot cameras (more than $200). Crop factor 4.
• 1/1.8", 1/1.7" - such matrices are also used in expensive point-and-shoot cameras, but this matrix is ​​less than 2/3". The crop factor is 4.8.

1/2.3", 1/2.33", 1/2.7", 1/3" - the smallest cheap and bad matrices. Crop factor 5.6 and higher.

The general principle is this: the larger the matrix size, the more sensitive it is, and the less noise it produces when photographing.

Viewfinder

This is the “sight” of the camera, with its help the photographer selects the subject to photograph. The viewfinder limits the photographer's view with a frame that shows the boundaries of the future photograph. In addition, the viewfinder provides the photographer with other important information - focus, sharpness. There are three types of viewfinders:

Optical parallax- a special mirror mounted inside the camera, behind the lens and in front of the matrix. This mirror reflects the image taken from the lens into the viewfinder. Through such a viewfinder, the photographer sees exactly what will be in the photo.

Display– the image from the matrix is ​​transferred to the display located outside the camera. Just like with a mirror viewfinder, the photographer sees exactly what will be in the photograph.

Electronic - the image from the matrix is ​​transmitted to a tiny eyepiece display, which is similar in shape to an optical one.

The most common type of viewfinder used in digital cameras is the display viewfinder.

Camera device

This part of the article will describe the operating principle of digital cameras, as well as the design of digital cameras.

Simplified, the camera diagram is as follows:

• The case is rectangular in shape, which houses the matrix, control electronics, memory card and batteries.
• The display is attached to the back of the camera body.
• The lens is mounted on the front of the body. The lens can be rigidly attached to the body (non-removable). Or it can be attached through a special mechanical connector - a bayonet, in which case the lens can be removed and another one installed in its place.

The image, in the form of light radiation, enters the matrix through the lens. When light hits photocells, it causes electric current in these photocells.

The control electronics reads electrical signals from photocells and forms an electronic image based on them. If the display is used as a viewfinder, this image is transmitted to the display. And this same electronic image is recorded on the memory card when the photographer presses the shutter button.

Types of digital cameras

This part of the article will describe how different types of cameras differ from each other.

The most accurate and widely used types of cameras involve division according to design features. By design, types of cameras are divided into three main groups - compact cameras (compacts), SLR cameras (DSLRs) and mirrorless cameras (hybrids).

Compact camera (Compact)

They are often called “soap boxes,” but this is not entirely correct. Soap dishes are a subspecies inside compacts. Design features of compact cameras:

• Fixed lenses.
• Priority is given to automatic adjustment of shooting parameters, and on cheap models there are no manual settings at all.

Compacts are divided into two large subgroups based on the method of lens mounting:

• Soap dishes - they have a telescopic lens and when turned off, it “retracts” into the body. When the camera is turned off, it looks like a bar (or a soap dish).
• Just a digital camera (compact, not a point-and-shoot camera) - the lens is fixedly mounted on the body and can even be integral with the body.

As a rule, these two subcategories differ in functionality. “Soap cameras” are inexpensive cameras, simple and automated. And compacts, as such, are more complex and have more opportunities for manually adjusting photographic parameters. Among the compacts there are models that can be used even in professional photography.

SLR camera (DSLR)

DSLR is an abbreviation for Digital single-lens reflex camera, which translated into Russian means: digital single-lens reflex camera. In common parlance “DSLR”.

This type of camera is used by professional photographers. That is, a SLR camera is almost synonymous with the concept of a professional camera.

• The SLR camera has the following design features:
• Removable lens. Mirror optical viewfinder

(in addition to it there may be a display viewfinder)

The cheapest models of SLR cameras have matrices smaller than 2 crop factor. And many mid-priced models have a full-size matrix.

In relation to this type of camera, the concept kit camera (whale) is used. This is a set of the camera itself (the body, and professionals call it the body) and a lens. Typically, a kit lens is a zoom lens with some average characteristics.

Mirrorless camera (hybrid)

This is a camera with an interchangeable lens. You can say that these are “DSLRs”, but without mirrors. As a matter of fact, one of the designations for this category of cameras is MILC (Mirrorless Interchangeable Lens Compact Camera), that is, a mirrorless digital camera with interchangeable lenses. They are also called system cameras (CSC - compact system camera).

• The SLR camera has the following design features:
• Design features of these cameras:
• Display viewfinder (on some models there may also be an optical parallax viewfinder).

Priority for manual settings of photographing parameters.

In relation to this type of camera, the concept of camera kit is also used. This is a set of the camera itself (the body, and professionals call it the body) and a lens. Just like DSLRs, some mirrorless models are sold without a lens.

Camera characteristics affecting the quality of photography

This part of the article will list the technical properties of cameras that affect the quality of photographs.

Small optical zoom– 2, 3 or 4. The more stages of focal length change, the more optical distortion and the greater the loss of aperture - both lead to deterioration of the photograph.

Aperture number (aperture) of the lens- how less value, the better - f/2 is better than f/2.8. A lower number means the lens lets more light into the sensor, which can be useful when shooting in low light conditions. For a zoom lens, the aperture number is indicated as a range - a smaller number for the shorter (short) focus, a larger number for the “longest” focus. Lenses with a small number, 2 or less than two, are often called fast lenses. General rule- the lens aperture decreases with increasing focal length.

Sensor sensitivity (ISO). No noise or minimal noise for high values ​​- 800 ISO and more. With cheap matrices, noise starts already at 400 ISO, and at 800 it may no longer be possible to photograph.

The lack of noise can be useful when shooting in low light conditions. Shutter speed (lag)

. The shorter the time interval from pressing the shutter button to taking a photo, the more accurate the resulting photo, if a dynamic object or process is being photographed. Recording a photo in raw format

(without compression). In digital cameras, when a photo is stored in memory, it is compressed into JPEG format.. The larger the matrix, the higher quality photographs can be obtained from it. In the camera description, the matrix size is indicated in proportion to the full size of 36 x 24 mm. This proportion is called the crop factor and is a decimal fraction. The rule is simple - the closer the crop factor number is to one, the larger the matrix size and the higher the quality of the matrix.

Manual photography settings. Ability to manually specify settings:

• focus
• aperture
• excerpts
• white balance
• matrix sensitivity.

This allows you to get good photo in conditions where automatic programs are not suitable for shooting conditions. However, in order to use manual settings, you need to have a good understanding of what they mean and their mutual influence.

Stabilization. Camera micro-movement compensation system. It compensates for the photographer's hand shaking. Designed to reduce the negative effect of “shaking” and “blurring” when shooting at long shutter speeds. There are two types - built into the lens (lens stabilization) and built into the body (matrix stabilization).

An example of matrix noise (more pixels does not mean a better photo).

Below are pictures of two cameras from the same price category ($100 - $150). Kodak M340 and Nikon Coolpix S3300.

The main difference between these cameras is that the Nikon Coolpix S3300 has 16 megapixels, while the Kodak M340 has 10 megapixels. At the same time, the physical size of the matrix is ​​the same - the crop factor is 5.62. The pictures were taken under the same conditions - at the same time (the difference is no more than one minute), from the same point. Both pictures were taken in the automatic "Scene - Landscape" mode.

Kodak M340 (photo fragment at 100% scale - 19 x 14 centimeters):

Nikon Coolpix S3300 (photo fragment at 100% scale - 39 x 29 centimeters):

The Nikon Coolpix S3300 has 60% more pixels than the Kodak M340, but this not only did not lead to an improvement in photo quality, but on the contrary, it slightly worsened it.

Camera characteristics affecting ease of use

This part of the article will list technical properties of cameras that do not directly affect the quality of photographs, but make the photography process easier and faster. Autofocus

. Autofocus is the camera's ability to independently set focus on the subject. Automatic modes cameras

- settings of shooting parameters (focus, aperture, shutter speed, sensitivity).. It is worse in that it gives a picture “for one eye”, since it is made in the form of an eyepiece, but its important advantage over a display one is that it can be used in bright sunny weather.

When the display viewfinder simply “goes blind” (you can’t see anything on it). Bracketing

. Automatically take multiple photos instead of one. In this case, for each photo, an individual value of one of the exposure parameters is set. For example, shutter speed bracketing - a picture is taken with a shutter speed value that is set by the photographer (or camera automation), and in addition, pictures are taken in which the shutter speed is higher and lower than this value. The same principle applies to other types of bracketing - by focal length, aperture. Of course, such pictures can also be taken manually. But automatic bracketing saves a lot of time. USB connector

allows you to quickly and easily copy photos to your computer. AA battery

– it can be replaced with regular batteries and thus is less dependent on the ability to charge the battery. Memory card type

. Photos in a digital camera are recorded on a memory card. The speed of photographing depends on the speed of writing to the card. Especially if the photo is recorded in raw format. If the camera has a card with a speed of 2 MB/sec, and the photo size is 2.5 MB (and this size is possible even in point-and-shoot cameras), then you will not be able to take more than one photo per second. Camera position sensor.

The standard position of the camera when taking photographs is horizontal. In this case, the image has a 4:3 format (width greater than height). However, it is often more beneficial to photograph with the camera turned vertically to obtain a 3:4 aspect ratio photo (width less than height).

Some cameras have an orientation sensor and automatically rotate the photo after taking it. But if the camera does not have such a sensor, then the vertical one turns out to be tilted on its side (photo taken on Nikon Coolpix S3300): Of course, it is not difficult to deploy it in any graphics program. But why do extra work

? If there are cameras that monitor such little things themselves (Kodak M340):

Camera Features You Can Ignore

This part of the article will list technical properties of cameras that do not affect the quality of photographs; moreover, they may even worsen the quality of photographs.. More doesn't mean better. Size really doesn't matter here.

5 megapixels is enough for good everyday (non-professional) photography. Large optical zoom

. If a compact lens has a 10, 20 or even 30x zoom, this means that at such a zoom there will be severe optical distortions, perhaps even monstrous ones. Digital zoom . This is a software enlargement of a picture taken from the matrix. The quality deteriorates at this magnification. And such an increase can be done in graphic editor

on the computer. Panoramic photography

. A panorama is when you take several photographs, sequentially moving the viewfinder from left to right, or from right to left, and then merge the finished photographs into one along their vertical boundaries. This can be done on a computer - more conveniently and with better quality. Red-eye reduction

. First, you need to understand that red eyes only appear when photographed with a flash. If your camera allows you to take photos without flash in low light conditions, then you will not have the problem of red eye. Secondly, red eyes can be removed on the computer, in a graphics editor.

Choosing a camera based on these capabilities is obviously a losing proposition.

If a good camera doesn’t have them, then to hell with them.

Pros and cons of compact cameras

This part of the article will list the advantages and disadvantages of compact cameras.

Compared to SLR and hybrid digital cameras, compact cameras have the following pros and cons.

Pros of a digital compact

Small size and weight (this is true mainly for soap dishes). The soap dish can even be carried in your pocket or in a woman’s purse. Compacts are designed for automatic use – taking photographs using the “point and press” principle.

Not

high price and even low price - compacts are the most inexpensive cameras. Cons of a digital compact

• The main disadvantage of compacts is that you cannot take very good photos with them.
• good quality

, and some types of photography are not possible at all. This disadvantage is due to two factors:

• Automatic adjustment of shooting parameters. This is convenient, but the automation does not work successfully in all real situations
• Low quality matrix and lens.
• Top compacts:
• Fuji HS and X series (eg Finepix X10, X20).
• Nikon P series (for example Nikon Coolpix P7700, P7800).

inferior to cheap DSLRs and hybrids only by the inability to change the lens.

Pros and cons of DSLR cameras

This part of the article will list the advantages and disadvantages of SLR cameras. And also the advantages and disadvantages of cameras with interchangeable lenses in comparison with compact digital cameras

Pros of DSLR cameras

The ability to take good photos in almost any conditions. And almost any type of photo - landscapes, portraits, interiors, etc.

Good quality matrices, manual settings, interchangeable lenses. With this, you can achieve very good results.

Disadvantages of DSLRs and hybrids

Weight and dimensions. The weight of a DSLR is at least a kilogram, and if the lens is large, then more than a kilogram. A mirrorless camera will be lighter, but not much.

Higher price compared to compacts. Cheap cameras with interchangeable lenses start around $400. Cheap DSLRs start around $500. A good DSLR will cost closer to $1,000.

The need to learn photography. And you will have to spend a lot of time on such training.

Summary

More information in full version this article - How to choose a camera.

For example, you can buy a camera in this store:

The federal chain of stores Yulmart is a good place to buy computer and household appliances. Low prices, convenient purchasing process.
Registration in Yulmart
If you indicate a promotional code when registering 6023036 , then you can receive bonus points for purchases, which you can spend at Yulmart.

Ivan Sukhov, 2012, 2014

If you found this article useful or simply liked it, then do not hesitate to financially support the author. This is easy to do by throwing money at Yandex Wallet No. 410011416229354. Or on the phone +7 918-16-26-331 .

Even a small amount can help write new articles :)

Related articles:

With this article, our website continues a whole series of useful materials, the purpose of which is to make it easier to choose any product from the thousands of options offered on the market. Agree, choosing a specific model of a gadget always takes a lot of time, which can be spent usefully. In today's material we will talk about choosing the right camera.

Choosing a camera for different needs

Cameras are bought by completely different people for completely different purposes. Some people need a camera to take pictures. romantic landscapes on vacation, others for professional work, others just for fun. In addition, the task of choosing a camera to buy is perhaps the most difficult - much more difficult than choosing, say, a microwave oven. In this section, we will look at several options for why digital cameras are purchased and recommend different types.

For beginners and travelers - compact “soap dishes”

T.N. “Point-and-shoot cameras” are the most compact, easy-to-use and cheapest (the last point is optional) cameras that can be found on sale. Beginners in photography do not need all the shooting control functions that DSLR cameras have (usually they are displayed directly on the body, and not hidden in the touch menu). Such cameras are intended for those who simply want to point the lens at the subject and press the shutter, perhaps setting some kind of mode before doing so (night, for shooting fast-moving objects, etc.).

It is worth noting that in this case you should not pay attention to cheap cameras with big amount megapixels - the 12-megapixel Canon PowerShot N100 will shoot much better in low-light conditions than a camera of the same class with an 18-megapixel sensor. It is best to refer to reviews of specific models. In addition, it is worth considering the characteristics of the optical zoom and focal length. One camera with 5x zoom and a 24-120mm focal length will be better at taking wide-angle photos, while a camera with the same 5x zoom and a 35-175mm focal length will be better at shooting distant subjects. The best option for those who don't want to tinker with the settings would be point-and-shoot cameras with a focal length of at least 24 mm, such as the premium Sony Cyber-shot DSC RX100 III.

Almost all such cameras, except the cheapest ones, now support optical image stabilization, have an LCD display and can shoot video in a resolution of at least 1280x720 pixels - they will suit most ordinary users.

For shooting distant objects - cameras with superzoom

Such cameras come in both compact and regular sizes. With compact ones, things are almost the same as with the “soap dishes” described above. For example, an excellent camera with a 30x zoom is Nikon Coolpix S9700. If you need something longer, you can pay attention to the Canon PowerShot SX60 HS with 65x zoom.

Interestingly, one of the best cameras in this class is considered to be the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX10, which has only an 8.3x zoom, but at the same time has a 1-inch sensor, which allows you to achieve very high quality images. The Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1000 has the same sensor, but its lens can zoom in 16 times.

When shooting very distant objects, the viewfinder plays an important role - it is very difficult to hold the camera level and look through it at an object that is tens of times closer. Rule of thumb in such cases it states that with a 1000 mm zoom you need a shutter speed of 1/1000 second. Good optical stabilization will help a lot in this case. In addition, it is better to choose a superzoom camera with a high maximum ISO threshold (1600 or even 3200) - they do not let in much light when zoomed in.

This is an excellent option for travel enthusiasts who often have to shoot some objects, say, from the seashore or from afar, because they cannot be approached or reached without special equipment. In addition, you don’t have to carry interchangeable lenses with you.

For high quality and with a compact body, but without zoom

These are cameras whose goal is to fit the ability to take the best photos without zooming into as small a body as possible. An example is the Ricoh GR with a 28 mm lens and an APS-C sensor. If 28mm is too much, then you can look at the Fujifilm X100T with a hybrid viewfinder and a 35mm f/1 lens. If you don't mind the money, you can even take a closer look at the full-frame Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX1 with an excellent lens from Carl Zeiss.

Such cameras are used by a very narrow number of professionals. Typically, photographing nearby objects is simply a matter of using the right lens and a camera that allows you to use it.

For excellent quality photos for not too much money - mirrorless cameras with interchangeable lenses

These cameras appeared on the market relatively recently - in 2008. An example is the Samsung NX300, which has an APS-C sensor of the same size as DSLR cameras. Samsung also has similar cameras - for example, Samsung NX Mini. An even more compact camera in this class is the Pentax Q7. Sony also produces similar cameras, from cheap (Alpha A3000) to expensive (Alpha A7R).

When purchasing such cameras, you need to consider the number of lenses that are compatible with a particular model. For example, it is quite difficult to find suitable lenses for the Nikon 1 and Pentax Q series, and Canon EOS M lenses have almost disappeared from stores. Often, however, lenses with older mechanisms can be used with new cameras using adapters.

In many cases, shooting with such cameras is no different from shooting with point-and-shoot cameras - you simply point the lens at the subject and make sure that it does not disappear from the viewfinder (which can often be attached separately, for example, to an Olympus Pen E- PL7). Zoom lenses, however, in most cases you will have to adjust yourself. The number of buttons and switches with settings in the case of mirrorless cameras depends on their cost.

For professionals who demand maximum quality - DSLR cameras

This is definitely the best choice for those who want maximum control over the entire shooting process and manually achieve best result in a specific situation. Such cameras are larger, heavier and, most importantly, more expensive than others, but at the same time they have the largest sensors, focus on the subject faster and support a large number of lenses (it is believed that Canon and Nikon provide the largest selection).

If you buy a DSLR camera under $1,800, it will most likely have an APS-C sensor, which has a sensitive surface area about half the size of a 35mm film frame. Full-frame cameras with sensors measuring approximately 36x24 mm are much more expensive. Both types have their advantages: APS-C is cost effective and can be used with smaller, lighter lenses, while full-frame cameras are very good at shooting distant subjects.

Choosing such a camera is so complicated that a separate article should be written for this. If you are a professional, you hardly need advice. It's best to try the camera yourself - for example, you may like Canon's settings button configuration better than Nikon's.

These cameras also differ in the types of viewfinders. Inexpensive models like the Canon EOS Rebel SL1 use pentamirror viewfinders, which are not as good as the pentaprism viewfinders found in cameras like the Nikon D7100. By the way, an excellent inexpensive SLR camera with such a viewfinder and complete protection from all weather conditions is the Pentax K-50.

Sony uses electronic viewfinders in all of its DSLR cameras - even the top-end Alpha 77 II with an APS-C sensor and the Alpha 99 with a full-frame sensor. It all depends on the preferences of the photographer - some are ready to use electronic viewfinders, others cannot stand them.

Selecting lenses for SLR cameras is a different story. Perhaps we will write about them in some future article.

Main characteristics of digital cameras

Matrix type

There are two main types of photomatrices - CMOS (CMOS) and CCD (CCD). The latter are more photosensitive, but last years began to seriously inferior in parameters to CMOS matrices, which are now the most common. There are also BSI matrices that cope much better with shooting in low light conditions. They are more expensive and are much less common in CMOS cameras.

Number of megapixels of the matrix

The number of megapixels of the matrix characterizes the total number of sensors on it and directly affects the maximum resolution of digital photographs that can be obtained with its help. But this number is not at all the main characteristic of a good camera.

Physical matrix size

The larger the area of ​​the matrix, the less noise will appear in photographs taken with its help. In addition, cameras with large sensors (more than 1 inch) can take photos with a low depth of field (blurring of background objects).

Focal length

The larger this number, the larger the subjects in the photograph will be, and the shooting angle will decrease. Professional lenses allow you to change the focal length, and lenses in compact cameras are usually characterized by the EGF parameter (effective focal length calculated for 35 mm film). If the EGF is less than 35 mm, then the lens is considered wide-angle, and if it is more than 100, it is considered long-angle.

ISO, photosensitivity

Directly characterizes the ability of the matrix to register the colors of objects in poor lighting. The higher the maximum ISO threshold, the better your photos will turn out fast-moving subjects and subjects in the dark.

Electronic image stabilization

Compensation for the effect of “shaking hands” using special software, that is, programmatically. Inferior in quality of optical stabilization.

Lens Specifications

All lenses, if removable, are attached to the cameras using various types fasteners, and usually each manufacturer uses several of these types at once. Some are compatible with each other, others are not. When choosing a lens, you should consider its compatibility with your camera, and when choosing a camera, you should consider choosing lenses that are compatible with it.

Advanced lenses allow you to manually adjust the focus, and one of their main parameters is aperture (F-number, the smaller it is, the more light enters the matrix) and minimum focusing distance (determines the distance at which close objects can be clearly photographed).

In addition, good lenses include optical image stabilization. The special design ensures that the optics remain stationary in relation to the subject, resulting in clearer photographs.

Video capabilities

Modern cameras must record video at a minimum resolution of 1280x720 pixels (HD) and at a rate of at least 30 frames per second. More advanced models can record video in resolutions up to 4K (3840x2160 pixels) at up to 60 or even 120 frames per second, which allows you to gain more creative freedom during editing and achieve smoother moving images.

Availability of built-in flash and its characteristics

Flash is needed to illuminate dark objects in photographs, and is often built into the camera. Its main characteristic is the leading number, measured in meters. For example, a flash with a guide number of 11 m will be able to sufficiently illuminate an object at a distance of 11 m when photographing with ISO = 100 and aperture = 1. If the camera does not have a built-in flash, then external flashes can be connected to it. In addition, good flashes allow you to adjust the lighting power.

Exposure and shutter

Good cameras allow the photographer to adjust the aperture and shutter speed (low shutter speed is important for shooting fast-moving subjects, high shutter speed for shooting in the dark) manually or use automatic values ​​for one or both parameters. It is also worth paying attention to the minimum and maximum exposure thresholds, which are used to obtain lighter images. All these parameters may change depending on the different preset modes on the camera.

In addition, an important characteristic of the camera is the presence of a white color correction function (allows white objects in the frame to remain white despite the lighting).

Other photo opportunities

Burst modes allow cameras to take photographs in series - for example, 5 full frames per second. It’s also worth paying attention to the size of the camera’s buffer, which affects the number of photos it can take in a row. Some cameras can shoot in 3D mode, and many allow you to use the RAW format instead of the standard JPEG format, which is much easier to process.

Screen size and type

Most modern camera screens are about 3 inches diagonally or larger and display 16 million colors. They are also often touch-sensitive, so manufacturers can get rid of unnecessary buttons on the device body. A very important feature is the rotating screen, which will allow the photographer to shoot complex scenes a little easier.

Type and availability of viewfinder

The optical viewfinder is still the only way for many people to take photos, and the image comes directly from the camera's optical system. Electronic viewfinders are considered less accurate and come in the form of LCD screens. Sometimes the viewfinder can be connected to the camera separately.

Microphone

Microphones in digital cameras usually cannot be called advanced. Some models use stereo microphones that allow you to record sound with its positioning in a 2D plane.

Housing material

Cheap models use plastic (sometimes reinforced with glass fiber or carbon fiber), while more expensive and exclusive ones use metal. Naturally, the latter is much heavier than plastic, but more durable. Often all these materials are combined.

Protection from moisture and dust

The presence of such protection allows shooting in extreme conditions - for example, at a depth of 10 m below the surface of the water. It is better to read about protection classes on Wikipedia.

Supported memory cards and wireless technologies

Most cameras support SD, SDHC and SDXC memory cards, which are now the most powerful, cheapest and most popular. Depending on their capacity, the photographer may be able to capture more footage before transferring it to a PC or the cloud.

If you want to easily and simply transfer photos from the camera to other devices, then you need to pay attention to the support of wireless technologies - Bluetooth and Wi-Fi (the best standards are 802.11n and 802.11ac). Some camera models even support 3G or 4G cellular connectivity. There is also NFC support for pairing with third-party accessories.

These technologies also provide communication with external control panels. It is also worth paying attention to the availability of support for the latter.

Wired Interfaces

A good camera should have USB ports ( better version 3.0, minimum 2.0), Firewire / IEEE 1394 / iLink and HDMI (for viewing video on external devices directly from the camera). A composite video output may also be present.

Battery type and capacity

Most often, good cameras use their own batteries made using Li-Ion (lithium-ion) or Li-Pol (lithium-polymer) technologies. Naturally, the larger their capacity, the longer the camera will work and the more pictures you can take before it runs out. Their advantage is fairly fast charging.

Cheaper models can use AA or AAA batteries made using NiCd (nickel-cadmium) or NiMH (nickel-metal hybrid) technologies. They are cheap and can be used in extremely low or high temperature environments. It is worth noting that NiMH batteries are subject to serious self-discharge.

Don't forget about additional accessories. A bag or at least a case for a camera is much more necessary than a case for a smartphone. Especially if you plan to travel a lot and take it with you. It's also worth investing in a reliable tripod (if you just want to take clear photos) and additional batteries (and possibly stand-alone chargers). By the way, about the latter: cameras use either their own lithium-ion batteries or finger batteries, which need to be charged according to certain rules. Which one is best for you is up to you to decide.

If you are not going to be a professional photographer and make a living from it, then you most likely do not need an expensive SLR camera. Is it true.

Be sure to look for all possible information about the camera you are planning to buy on the Internet. Owner reviews, reviews of specific models, photo comparisons, and so on.

To edit images from good cameras, you will need to know how to use fairly complex and expensive software like Photoshop Elements. There are, however, free options.

Consider purchasing a high-capacity SD card if you don't plan to upload footage to your computer or cloud services for a long time.

Don’t chase the number of megapixels - many other parameters are much more important, and a cheap 16-megapixel point-and-shoot camera is very different from an expensive 16-megapixel SLR camera.

Conclusion

We hope that this article helped you deal with the difficult task of choosing your future camera. Next week we will help you choose a washing machine!